No codes are present. My problem is when trying to accelerate, anything over around 10%  throttle and it cuts out and loses all power like I put it in neutral. Barely got to 40 mph on my way home. Hopefully not a transmission issue. I had a tire blow going down the highway at about 75 last night and not sure if I knocked something loose or what. Had a p1698 code a couple weeks ago with no symptoms and cleared the code without it coming back. The problem doesn’t seem as bad once the engine or maybe transmission gets up to temp. 
 
Any help is very appreciated.

Edited March 13, 20214 yr by ColoradoColt

I can say forsure once everything was warmed up the problem is completely gone. Once everything’s cold. I can barely move. The cut outs are very abrupt and rough kind of like accelerating then dropping into neutral.

So are you watching tps input ? It gets to 10% throttle and cuts power like it's back at 0 % throttle ? 

Yes exactly, So just like yesterday I went out after letting it warm up about 5 minutes. Anything over 10% throttle and I lose all fueling and it cuts out like 0. But my scanner still shows the correct throttle %. So if im giving it 10% and it cuts out, the scanner still shows 10%. None of the live data I can read seems off. 

I was thinking it’s a PCM issue and it’s not getting the signals from the trans correctly. I’ve checked all my connections and wiring to the pcm and everything seems fine. 

It also threw the same code this morning and my rpm gauge dropped to zero then back up to normal before the light came on. 

Edited March 12, 20214 yr by ColoradoColt

Another symptom today was check gauges light because oil pressure pegged at 100 and coolant keeps changing between 190 and 240

Sounds like ecm to me

Okay oil pressure is normal after replacing it with an old one I had. Coolant normal as well. The only issue is p1698. It cuts the throttle so much until I get about 12 miles down the road and it’s fine again. I’ll post a video I took the other day of what it was doing.

I was at between 80-95% throttle for the entire video, that’s how it acts unless I give it about 10% only. Then it will drive normal, until about 12 miles of driving, then I can give it any amount of throttle and it drives fine. 

Edited March 13, 20214 yr by ColoradoColt

I hope it’s not the ecm. I’ll send it back to get tested. It’s not even a year old. 

How did you check codes, with scanner or key?

very rare but a possibility that the tank vent is clogged and the fuel flow gets interrupted. See how she does with the fuel cap loose. I was right on, only once about this on another forum. But hey its not expensive to try and see.

Edited March 13, 20214 yr by JAG1

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

How did you check codes, with scanner or key?

With a scanner 

22 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

very rare but a possibility that the tank vent is clogged and the fuel flow gets interrupted. See how she does with the fuel cap loose. I was right on, only once about this on another forum. But hey its not expensive to try and see.

I’ll give it a shot when I leave work today and let you know how it goes. 

No change with fuel cap off. Today I did have 2 more symptoms, ABS light flickering randomly and rpm gauge dropping to 0 when it’s not actually at 0

Yes you have an electrical issue, not fuel related. I know little about electrical but a few guys found the big white connector about over the middle of the cowl was not connected all the way and solved their problems by reconnecting that. Are your batteries all in nice clean shape and are of equal age and voltage? Have you checked to see if the ECM connector is in good shape, each pin etc.?

On 3/13/2021 at 6:23 AM, ColoradoColt said:

Another symptom today was check gauges light because oil pressure pegged at 100 and coolant keeps changing between 190 and 240

I saw this happen on my old first gen when I found the mechanic broke off a ground terminal. He quickly stuffed it between two parts holding the radiator. To lazy to strip the wire and put another terminal on, it wasn't grounding. Yours I think is bad connection somewhere.

 

Shots in the dark.....

Whats it do when you unhook the Quadzilla?

 Get load tested on those batteries.

Is the AirDog powered by the ECM factory lift pump connector? Supposed to be powered by the batteries with a relay.

How many miles on the AirDog? If it's putting a excess load on the ECM because of it's age and it's powered by the ECM that's a recipe for destroying the ECM.

Do you have fuel pressure gauge?

Edited March 14, 20214 yr by JAG1

36 minutes ago, JAG1 said:

Yes you have an electrical issue, not fuel related. I know little about electrical but a few guys found the big white connector about over the middle of the cowl was not connected all the way and solved their problems by reconnecting that. Are your batteries all in nice clean shape and are of equal age and voltage? Have you checked to see if the ECM connector is in good shape, each pin etc.?

 

Shots in the dark.....

Whats it do when you unhook the Quadzilla?

 Get load tested on those batteries.

Is the AirDog powered by the ECM factory lift pump connector? Supposed to be powered by the batteries with a relay.

How many miles on the AirDog? If it's putting a excess load on the ECM because of it's age and it's powered by the ECM that's a recipe for destroying the ECM.

Do you have fuel pressure gauge?

I’ll check that connector, Batteries are clean and bought at the same time about a 1 1/2 years ago. They are Walmart batteries though so I will go get them tested right now. I’ll check out the ecm later as well, although it is less than a year old.

I haven’t unhooked the quadzilla yet either but it’s also a year old or less. Same with airdog, which is powered by batteries with a relay. Probably 50,000 miles max on all the new parts. 
Lastly no fuel pressure gauge yet. I plan on ordering the kit for the quadzilla.

I’ll stop at autozone and get a manual gauge for now to check my fuel pressure.

Thanks for the help. It seems to be getting a little worse everyday. But after about 20-30 min of driving the problems seem to go away. Until the next morning 

I did replace my radiator and it seemed that very soon after if not the next day it happened. Maybe there was some wire I could have hit and unhooked or ground I accidentally broke. I’ll give it’s good look over today.

I also noticed my fuel gauge was reading wrong for a day. I filled up and it said 3/4 when I knew it was full. This was yesterday. Today it’s all the way full where it should be.

One battery did fail so I replaced it. Driving normal so far but it was warmed up already. Check engine light is off and gauges seem to be working properly 

take apart both grounds in front of the drivers battery. One down low on the fender kinda hard to see but moving the wires youll see it there. Use couple long extensions to get it loose and clean/ sand it up. The other is about half way up kind of on the fender in front of the battery. Those are important grounds right there. I would say your symptoms are related to grounding issues, but like anything else you never know for sure.

Output speed sesnor on the transmission possibly for the wild shifting.

 

P1698 code you are going to do some testing of the voltages typically 2.51 and 2.49 volts when at rest when the computers stop talking. Pins 3 and 11 vs. ground.

 

Edited March 15, 20214 yr by Mopar1973Man

Okay thanks for the help. I haven’t had much time lately to look at it until today so I’ll run those tests. I cleaned all grounds again and changed both batteries. The Problem still only happens in the morning until I drive about 20-30 min. Then is fine all day. My fuel pressure gauge just showed up last night so I will relay that info as well.

Okay, I don’t know much about electrical but I’ll give it a shot when I get my ecm back from being tested. I replaced my trans output speed sensor and it fixed my problem shifting from 1-2 in the mornings. 
 

Im still unsure if it’s Ecm or Electrical at all, only because it’s fine once I get up to speed for a little bit. Then it’s fine for the rest of the day. I noticed a couple months back I was hauling some horses and I had to cross  a wash with some deep sand and the back end just dropped, I tried 4wd and was still stuck, so I unloaded the horse and had to back up a little and pretty much floor it out the other 20 feet. I noticed when reaching between 2600-3000 rpm it sounded like a miss fire, the rpms dropped when it sounded like it, and blows a little white smoke. It seems like it de fuels for a second before jumping right back where it was. Could this be an injection pump issue? I don’t usually get that high rpms often  but when I have to it does the same thing. I only wonder about the Vp because I think I’ve read some people saying that the temp of the injection pump it’s self could be causing the issues? 

On 3/13/2021 at 8:14 AM, Dieselfuture said:

Sounds like ecm to me

Guess you were right, finally got ecm back and so far this morning it’s driving like normal. 

I do notice still under moderate to heavy throttle it cuts out a little until warmed up. 

On 4/27/2021 at 8:59 AM, ColoradoColt said:

so far this morning it’s driving like normal.

Glad you got it all ironed out and it's running good again. I don't run too high of RPM without warmed engine so can't say if that's normal or not.