This just started this morning, a popping sound when making a tight right turn at low speed. In a parking lot for example. Had not done it turning left at all. Wife said she felt it in the floorboard when it popped. This is while in 2WD. Have not tried in 4WD yet.

 

No obvious cause when I looked under the truck. Truck has 187,000 mile on all the stock hardware except shocks which I replaced last weekend.

 

Suggestions on what to check for?

Just got back from a trip with the truck and travel trailer. Steering was SLOPPY. Nearly a half turn needed for minor corrections to keep the truck in its lane. Wind gusts and passing semi/busses was an adventure. It was not bad like that before having the tie rods, ball joints, and wheel bearings replaced. All of the parts between the steering box and axle knuckles have been replaced. I would have to do minor corrections but with very little steering input. Only thing not touched was the track bar or the control arm bushings.

 

On 6/1/2021 at 7:17 AM, Silverwolf2691 said:

 

To be honest, I've only had a few instances of wheel bearings going bad, but I've never had them make a popping noise. Near constant grinding, howling, thumping, growling, yes but not popping.. Unless because sounds are subjective when it comes to cars, that we are talking about the same thing. If it was a "true" popping noise, I hope you replaced the u joints on the axle shafts. but usually those are a slight crunching when turning in 2wd, and loud crunching popping noises when turning in 4wd. 

All of the u joints were good on the axle and front drive shaft. No noises since replacing the ball joints, tie rods, and wheel bearings.

 

2 minutes ago, puglyfe said:

Just got back from a trip with the truck and travel trailer. Steering was SLOPPY. Nearly a half turn needed for minor corrections to keep the truck in its lane. Wind gusts and passing semi/busses was an adventure. It was not bad like that before having the tie rods, ball joints, and wheel bearings replaced. All of the parts between the steering box and axle knuckles have been replaced. I would have to do minor corrections but with very little steering input. Only thing not touched was the track bar or the control arm bushings.

 

Check your steering shaft after replacing mine a few months ago it changed everything, dont buy the cheap ones

1 minute ago, CSGAMING said:

Check your steering shaft after replacing mine a few months ago it changed everything, dont buy the cheap ones

What is a recommended one to look for? How hard to replace? Where are the wear points on the current one?

 

2 hours ago, puglyfe said:

What is a recommended one to look for? How hard to replace? Where are the wear points on the current one?

 

Not hard to replace i got the borgeson shaft

Check both ends of the track bar too. Just replaced a mine month ago and was surprised to see how bad the bushing end was. The rubber was falling apart. The late models are hard on them. I still run the oe shaft on mine.

18 hours ago, puglyfe said:

What is a recommended one to look for?

I use NAPA track bars with little issues. I get between 80k to 120k miles out of track bar. 

 

18 hours ago, puglyfe said:

How hard to replace?

Typically about 5 to 10 minutes. Basic tools.

 

18 hours ago, puglyfe said:

Where are the wear points on the current one?

 

Either end I've seen the rubber bushing fail and then typically the ball stud end will move up and down when you turn the steering wheel back and forth. 

29 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

use NAPA track bars with little issues.

Based on photos from NAPA, AC Delco website, and Rock Auto, I believe the NAPA track bars are AC Delco Professional and are much cheaper on Rock. I am using one now, but only ~30k miles on it so far so can't yet speak to longevity.

I am running a MOOG. I know no one likes their stuff any more but they seem work fine for me.  On my third one, get about 150k out of them.

 

I do believe that @puglyfe was asking about the steering shaft. If you get someone to turn the wheel while look at the shaft you should be able to see any slop in it.

Steering shaft you should check to see if the shaft moves like bad shaft bearing. I see a lot of people that grab the steering wheel to pull themselves up into the driver seat. This will wear out the lower bearing on the shaft. I remember there is a company (don't remember the name) that make a new sleeve for the steer shaft. 

30 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Steering shaft you should check to see if the shaft moves like bad shaft bearing. I see a lot of people that grab the steering wheel to pull themselves up into the driver seat. This will wear out the lower bearing on the shaft. I remember there is a company (don't remember the name) that make a new sleeve for the steer shaft. 

I believe that is Rock Solid Steering.

To find your sloppyness,  you have to get someone to wiggle the steering wheel for you.  You will begin checking in this order:

     1)  Steering shaft to steering box.  put your hand on the shaft.  watch the person turning the wheel.  the shaft should react EXACTLY like the input.  (the two things you looking for here is/are the rag joint (about midway to the steering box under the hood. and the input to the steering box.  The input you just have to watch and make sure. the rag joint you can use two hands (one above and one below) it should move EXACTLY the same.

 

    2) Steering box output shaft (the shaft the pitman arm connects to.)   Have the person audibly tell you which way they are steering.  Make sure you note when they say going back to left to see if there is a delay in the new directional movement.

 

    3) Pitman arm drag link connection.   put your hand around this joint.  close your eyes and feel.   As the box changes direction do both parts move EXACTLY the same or does one part move a bit before the other?  Does the draglink rotate before it begins moving?

 

Our truck are notorious for the steering gearbox to get loose and need tightening.  I have personally had the pitman arm draglink connection go bad a couple times.....   (there were two different taper lengths used.  It could be someone didn't notice and put the wrong combination together and it doesn't tighten properly.

 

Lay under the truck while the person wiggles the steering.  Everything should move together and the wheels should try to turn immediately.  Watch for the item that doesn't move EXACTLY with the other items.

 

GL  HTH

 

Hag

 

 

I was able to get it checked this morning. The steering box needed to be adjusted. It is now back to the normal feel and response to input. The track bar and steering shaft appear good at this time.

Thank you for the recommendations and info to help get this resolved.