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Suggestions for injectors, turbo, head gasket.

Posted

The wife is letting me spend some money on the truck, so here's what I need.   

 

1. I just rolled over 250k miles, I know the head gaskets have a tendency to let go around now.  I was thinking of doing it pre-emptively and tossing in some head studs.  Is that wise or should I just wait for it to fail on it's own.  What brand of head gasket should I use, I have access to Fel-Pro and Mahle at work or I can go to the local Cummins shop.  I would have the head checked and worked over while it's off as well.

 

2. I know I need injectors, I'm probably still on the original ones.  I have noticed my MPG's have dropped a bit in the last year and I am clouding the sky more that usual.  I am running the Edge Juice tuner so something that would play well would be preferred.  I've heard a lot about the RV275's I believe, would those work or should I look at something else.  

 

3. Turbo, I have a relatively new HY35 with the waste gate locked down.  Would have done something different when it went out but had no money at the time, had to borrow a bit just to get this one.  Would it enough to just swap in an HX35 or could I do a little better?  I would prefer something that bolts in though getting a different down pipe is not a deal breaker.   

 

I just want to make sure everything will play well with the Edge tuner.  I know the canned units are meant for stock stuff so I'm not trying to make big power or anything.  I've tried the Quad and it wasn't my cup of tea.  I don't have a blank check but also don't want the cheapest stuff I can find, that said I'm not even sure if I'm going to do the work myself.  I've managed to injure myself at work several times this year and I'm finally almost back to normal so I may not want to risk hurting myself pulling the head off.  Mike, what's your labor rate?:whistle:

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Unless you want to tinker go with the gxe

49 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

Unless you want to tinker go with the gxe

So is the gxe actually worth replacing the hy35 for?

Yes, the gxe way outflows the hy35, but don't expect the gxe to be a 500 hp turbo.  It's designed for guys who want extremely fast spooling turbo with an end hp goal of 400-450hp without pushing the turbo out of it's map.  

 

the hy and hx 35's are out of their maps by 300-350 hp.

On 7/30/2021 at 4:17 PM, Sycostang67 said:

The turbo is coming with a new T3 manifold so I also decided to get some stainless studs for that as well.  

 

I need to get an estimate for some cement work and then I should be able to pull the money and get everything ordered.  :cheerleader:

My stock manifold has a small crack in it at the bottom not leaking yet but not m guessing soon it will, been getting bigger trough out the years, I'm looking for a one piece ss manifold and probably will put in some ss studs. N Ed to start saving up so I can just buy it all new, screw it... 

  • Author

I was looking at the Steed speed manifold, but it sounds like unless I am looking for some crazy power numbers, it's not worth the extra $600.  I assume the T3 manifold that comes with the GXE turbo is a standard cast piece.  I guess I will probably have to redrill my EGT probe holes.  Should I relocate the holes?  They are both currently in the center section one towards the front and one towards the back.  Should I move them further apart?

The reason for the price is the steed speed is a billet machined manifold. Its supposedly the closest thing to a header without getting one of the equal length tubular ones. I think its also one of the few manifolds that actually make power. Most are a copy of the same factory manifold, with the ability to expand and contract better. Stainless diesel is the other one that makes more power. But yes the horsepower for dollar on a manifold isnt great. Kind of rivals a cam and intake horn in that regard

 

My egt probes are in the merge areas by the flange. 

  • Author

I've got everything but the down pipe and it should arrive tomorrow.  Much to my surprise the exhaust manifold that came with the turbo was a 3 piece unit.  I'll probably have it powder coated, I'm not building a show truck but I don't care for the rusty look under the hood.  

Make sure its a ceramic coating or its money down the drain..

  • Owner

I would talk to the coating company and be sure it can with stand temperatures above 1,200*F and for long term. Not that you would drive that hard but make sure it can withstand way more temperature for long periods of time. 

  • Author

Got the ceramic coating, they said it would good up to 1800*, I 'll be picking it up tomorrow if I can get off work on time. 

  • Author

Well I have everything, even went and got those Black Horse Racing intercooler boots just because I needed to spend at least $6 more for free shipping.  Now I have to get the energy.  We been so short handed at work that I'm working 12-15 hours a day and have zero energy when the weekend arrives.  I am thinking about having someone else do the injectors and head studs at least.  I guess I'll ask around and maybe the price tag will motivate me to do it myself.

  • Owner

$85 an hour... I'll do it if you drive out here. Injectors are about 1.5 to 2.0 hours. Head studs a bit more trouble but since the valve cover is off it would be too bad to pull a bolt and replace it with a stud. 

  • Author

I think I may take you up on that, I do love a nice long drive.  Let me check with the wife as I know she has some plans and then I'll message you.  

  • 4 weeks later...

I would have pushed a borg 62 65 14 or 62 68 12 on you hard core.

 

I read through this and see screaming eagle ill have to go research

 

S300 57/65/14cm

Not surecwhat i think about that but im sure its a better flowing turbo than the hy35

 

Have you installed injectors yet? Theyre easy to do i have the injector tool but have pulled them with out it.

 

When i do my next set im going pull front tires and set truck on the rotors. After putting a couple lug nuts back on.

 

 

  • Owner

@Sycostang67 He came and gone already I did the +100 HP injectors with new connector tubes, and then did the ARP studs for him. The only thing I ran out of time for was doing the W-T ground wire mod but next time I head south I hook up and do the W-T ground wire mod.

Sweet. Hell have to drive my truck after getting to know his.

 

Good turbo comparison 

  • Author

I got the two upper boots swapped as the one kept popping off and was able to take the truck on a proper rip.  The new injectors definitely make the bigger turbo spool quicker and with almost no smoke once it's lit.  If I left off and floor it again, I make a decent cloud before the turbo kicks back in.  I will try turning the pre-boost fuel down on the Edge and see if that helps, worst case scenario I give the Quadzilla another try.  I'm going camping this weekend so I'll see how the new setup handles the camper.  

17 minutes ago, Sycostang67 said:

I'm going camping this weekend so I'll see how the new setup handles the camper.  

Please keep us posted, after my +75hp injectors I was hitting 1350-1400 for 30-60 seconds on i84 between mountain home and twin pulling only 2000lbs, now I'm afraid to throw my 9000lbs behind it. I have yet to change exhaust and turbo, I want compounds or VGT, but everywhere I call really keeps recommending that screaming eagle you got. I tell you what though the +75's woke my truck up, no more stuttering from a stop, just goes even without the boost.

  • Owner

+150 HP I can lay my foot WOT and never reach 1,200°F. I've ran all the way to Arizonia in summer temps and never got over 1,200°F climbing grades with my 31 foot RV. Proper timing, proper gear makes a huge difference even MPG wise. Average 65 MPH is about 550°F EGTs.

 

Oh skip Cummins OEM head gaskets, there is much better out there. After having one delaminate in under 1,000 miles.

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.