Have a couple random questions about my truck:

 

1. On start up, the puff of smoke is getting thicker and bluer. It also has a slight oil smell to it. Idling for a bit also starts getting an oily hint to it as well. I'm assuming that this is either turbo or valve seals. I don't think its valve seals because those are only 4 years old from when I rebuilt the head.. Turbo is the factory hx35 with 213k on it so id think its getting time to rebuild.

 

2. While sled pulling, in my Quad's datalogs I have found that the canbus fuel is dropping off a bit then back up to 4095. I don't have back downs, and throttle stayed at 100%. The green vertical bars are canbus, the yellow line is load, and the brown/copper one is throttle position. this is my most recent sled pull. It was this past Saturday, the 7th. 200ft track and stupid sandy, no grip. The dip in the middle was me letting off to see if I could get any more traction but I think it cost me distance instead. In the last half of the pull after me letting off the throttle and getting back on the fuel keeps dropping a bit.   

Dark blue is rpm, gray is egt, peach is timing, light blue is boost 

 

3. after my pull the quad showed -40 for coolant temp then started reading again. I have mopar mans high idle kit but the bone heads at the dealer didnt actually turn it on despite having the tsb in front of them, don't know if that makes a difference. I haven't had a chance to look thing over yet to see if I melted something or if something is loose.

 

4. My sled pulls seem to never register over 30 psi on the Quad, even though my isspros show 35-38. 

Edited August 9, 20213 yr by Silverwolf2691
premature posting..

what line is what in your log?   

 

@Me78569, sorry hit the wrong button and posted early

what is yellow?

 

-40 means coolant is over 204*. the ecm is not capable of reporting coolant hotter than that so it wraps around.

 

sounds like you need a new map sensor, but high psi readings are not reliable via the oem sensor.   it wasn't really designed for that, but once you hit 30 psi you are likely at max fuel so it doesn't really matter.  

4 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

what is yellow?

 

engine load

 

5 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

-40 means coolant is over 204*. the ecm is not capable of reporting coolant hotter than that so it wraps around.

 

I thought I read that somewhere on here, ok so that's a non issue.

 

7 minutes ago, Me78569 said:

sounds like you need a new map sensor, but high psi readings are not reliable via the oem sensor.   it wasn't really designed for that, but once you hit 30 psi you are likely at max fuel so it doesn't really matter.  

 

Replaced the map, iat and ect sensors back in 2017 with the head gasket swap.

 

I understand if you don't remember, but why was the decision made to keep with the map sensor instead of a separate pressure sensor? 

to be compatable with all trucks without extra cost and install requirements

are you talking about lines ~69-83 ish?

Yep. Multiple tunes, multiple pulls, all have those little dips in them. Some have been earlier in a pull as well

 

have the actual numbers instead of a graph if you would like that as well

  

Forgot to add: is the transmission slip accurate at all with a standard transmission on the quadzilla?

Edited August 9, 20213 yr by Silverwolf2691

I am not sure a turbo can cause a puff on startup since there is no way for oil from the turbo to get into the cylinder and ignited on startup. I'd be leaning more towards valve guides. 

Edited August 9, 20213 yr by AH64ID

Bad valve guides and seals. Once a valve guide wears it usually start rocking the valve stem a bit which tears up the valve seals.

Are bad valve guides a new head or can they be replaced? I'm assuming that 4 years is enough to tear up valve seals if they are going bad

Valve guide can be replaced. I had 18 out of the 24 replaced on my head at 350k miles. This is why my first head job had $2,100 worth of head work and ARP studs added. 

Oh boy. Was hoping it wasn't that.

 

I've gotten the bright blue oil smoke upon accelerating after idling the truck for an extended period. It hasn't happened in a while though. Would valve guides do that or is that a turbo?  

Saw this over this past weekend, usually my timing at an idle is like 11.22-11.25 and that's it. After idling for a while waiting to pull I noticed I was up around 15.xx degrees of timing. Tapped the throttle pedal and right back down to 11.22-11.25.

 

Is this a safety thing built into the Cummins ecu or is it the quadzilla?   

On 8/10/2021 at 7:26 AM, Silverwolf2691 said:

I've gotten the bright blue oil smoke upon accelerating after idling the truck for an extended period. It hasn't happened in a while though. Would valve guides do that or is that a turbo?  

 

It's most likely valve guides are wasted and the valve seal blew off. There is a member here that fought that problem. Myself I had it too and had 18 of the 24 valve guides replaced. Now all good and no longer blue smoking. 

 

16 minutes ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Saw this over this past weekend, usually my timing at an idle is like 11.22-11.25 and that's it. After idling for a while waiting to pull I noticed I was up around 15.xx degrees of timing. Tapped the throttle pedal and right back down to 11.22-11.25.

At idle the ECM is in control of the timing and its normal for extended idle times to see the timing jump up this is totally normal.

Damn. I'm trying to figure out if its something else, because I think it was the one oversight I had when I did the head gasket. I don't recall if the Cummins upper engine gasket kit came with guides, but I'd put my money on no.

 

Was hoping to not have to pull the head again.. Either way its gonna have to wait. I don't have funds or an area to put my truck and take off parts for this project at the moment.

 

Per my other thread I resurrected today (need help with tune or injectors), would guides cause a haze on acceleration if they were bad enough?  

Edited August 12, 20213 yr by Silverwolf2691

7 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

Was hoping to not have to pull the head again..

 

You don't have too... If you have the valve spring compressor. What you do is run 1 and 6 up to TDC since they are running mates. Now the piston at TDC. You can compress the spring pull the clips out and change the valve seals on 1 and 6 without pulling the head. Then you run 2 and 5 up to TDC and repeat. Then 3 and 4 and repeat. The valves will sit on the top of the piston and not fall out. I've got the tool in my tool box and never got to use it yet. 

 

33 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've got the tool in my tool box and never got to use it yet. 

I on the other hand used the hell out of mine trying to make custom valve seals .

Btw they are still holding up 

@Dieselfuture, you had top hat seals put in correct? Do you have a link or anything on how you did that?

 

@Mopar1973Man, valve seals or valve guides can be replaced on the truck? I can under stand seals but I don't think the guides can be..   

Seals yes, guides no.

6 hours ago, Silverwolf2691 said:

@Dieselfuture, you had top hat seals put in correct? Do you have a link or anything on how you did that?

 

@Mopar1973Man, valve seals or valve guides can be replaced on the truck? I can under stand seals but I don't think the guides can be..   

I had an issue when I changed my head gasket with seals poping off the guides, probably due to high drive pressure or exhaust break, just an opinion. Ether way after putting new ones on and having same issues I modified some top hats that were meant for the 4l ford just because they were the closest thing without machine work on the head, which I wasn't going to take it off just for seals. I'm having a hard times using search here to find my old posts, but someone else tried to do same thing and said he had an issue using factory valve springs. I got conical Manton springs that may be a bit taller and uses shorter valve spring retainer keepers. I would think there'll be plenty of room with factory springs but I never tried it that way. I'll see if I can find my post. 

Valve guides are drilled out and new get pressed in, factory are part of the head, mine are brass now. 

Found it

 

 

Adding to the random questions.. How screwed is someone who doesn't have the data plate on the timing case?

 

Because I'm someone... I think the timing cover got replaced with the updated version and whoever did the job did not swap the data plate..

 

I found a sticker on the top of the oil cooler boss but it's 7 numbers not 8, so I don't know if that's something different or not..

 

is it possible to get a replacement? I'm guessing not because its similar to a VIN plate, and I think reproduction of those is illegal.