I've noticed these "solder seal" wire connectors and wondered if anyone on here have used them and what they think of them.

 They're the butt connectors with low temp solder inside. No soldering iron needed, just a heat gun. 

 Let me know your thoughts. Thanks.

I use them all the time, they work great ensure you have a good stable temp heat gun and don't have tension or torqueing on the wires when you apply heat. I do like to use heat shrink as a 2nd layer of protection as well.

 

Edited February 14, 20223 yr by Me78569

Love them. I also like the ones that are made like shrink tube. Genius.

Sorry but the ones ive used are junk. The shrink gets weak wires poke through and I dont believe they are as good over time. I use the crimp with shrink. The wires stay in the sleeve also dont skimp on crimpers. Being in the welding business for 25 years I have never seen anything better than what you can put your hands on. My point is I dont trust foreign solder and tin. Its hard enough buying it from people you trust.  

 

Edited February 15, 20223 yr by jlwelding

 I was xurious because when I recently put my lift pump on a relay I had to cut the power wire to the plug for the oem setup. I'd like to have something more permanent there. It's down the driver's side of the motor above the starter. I would have soldered it and shrink over but I don't think I can get in there well enough with my big gorilla hands to do it. Lol

I would crimp and slide heat shrink over it.

Get a box of Deutsch connectors, the DT range, fully reusable except the terminals, they are waterproof and easily used, just a 90 deg small pick to pull one wedge out, small seal pick works great but I have the original Cat brass handled pick that was supplied maybe 30 odd years ago by Cat

 

Genuine Deutsch crimps are expensive here, not sure about USA but I have a pattern set which work great

 

Boxed kits range from silly money right down to $20.00 or so, comes in 2 pin, 3 pin, 4 pin, 6 pin, 8 pin and more

 

Most kits come with steel connectors but for added corrosion resistance and better conductivity Cat do loose male and female terminals that are gold plated, last time I bought some (50 of each IIRC) they were £1 per terminal, expensive but boy do they last and in the harshest conditions imaginable and if they do corrode it's a few seconds to disassemble and renew the terminals.

I do a lot of electrical work on heavy mining equipment and never use anything else, I have solder equipment but rarely use it and the times I go to machines with beacons/lights/ seatbelt warnings etc not working and there's a  corroded crimp causing the problem

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Connector-Waterproof-Electrical-22-16AWG-Motorcycle/dp/B082WWDJV6/ref=sr_1_11?adgrpid=1188572967731455&hvadid=74286010557315&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=162514&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-74285945616902%3Aloc-188&hydadcr=4619_1948898&keywords=deutsch+connectors&qid=1645176657&sr=8-11

So very very rare I going to butt splice two wires together. I typically use like blade style crimp (male & female) to join wires so there is a disconnect point as well. I would rather solder and shrink tube if I'm joining wires together but rather use some good lead/tin solder and flux and get a good bite to the wire. I've seen oxidized copper not play well with solder either. Then do the small pull test. I normally only strip about a 1/8 to 1/4 inch of insulation off and tin the ends. Now slip the shrink tubing over and bind the two tin ends together. Afterwards slide the tubing in place and use the heat of the solder iron to set the shrink tubing. Now I've got way less that that long pre made solder shrink setup mine are barely 3/8 to 1/2 inch long with shrink. Hide way better in a loom and hardly noticeable being there is no knot in the wire now.

 

Good example my PCM protection fuse.

 

 

 

 

 For the time being I used male/female crimp blade connectors on it. The insulated type. It may last a long time but I guess I'd feel better with a more permanent connection to lengthen the wire then have a blade connector for disconnect on the end somewhere up away from the bottom of the engine/starter area.