Hello Guys, 

New to the forum. Recently bought a cab swapped 2001 24v 5.9 6 speed with a 15x VP pump. I bought the truck not running and dont really know alot about the mods that have been done to it. It does have an edge tuner and a dual turbo installed as well. 

 

I have replaced the VP44 and still have a no start. I have bled the return line banjo and 1, 3 and 4, to the point of flowing good. I have 20psi coming off the fass lift pump dropping to 10psi while cranking. I do have power and ground at the vp plug. I have also tested continuity and grounds from ECM and PCM. 

 

Replacing the VP44 did change the sound while cranking. Before it was just cranking.  Now it seems like it is trying. Looking to be pointed in the right direction. Thanks

 

 

Try bleeding a few more lines. 

1 hour ago, cumminsman87 said:

Now it seems like it is trying

 

I watched your video.  Your "wait to start" light went out at 15 seconds into the video yet you didn't crank the engine until 45 seconds into the video.  Why did you wait?

 

Since it sounds like the truck is close to starting, I would just bump the starter and leave the key in the run position.  The lift pump will run for approximately 20 seconds.  Do this two or three times and then try starting the engine immediately.

 

If the truck is inside a shop or garage and the temperature is above 40 degrees, then don't wait for the grid heaters to cycle - it is just pulling down more battery power.

 

- John

3 minutes ago, Tractorman said:

 

I watched your video.  Your "wait to start" light went out at 15 seconds into the video yet you didn't crank the engine until 45 seconds into the video.  Why did you wait?

 

Since it sounds like the truck is close to starting, I would just bump the starter and leave the key in the run position.  The lift pump will run for approximately 20 seconds.  Do this two or three times and then try starting the engine immediately.

 

If the truck is inside a shop or garage and the temperature is above 40 degrees, then don't wait for the grid heaters to cycle - it is just pulling down more battery power.

 

- John

I waited for the fuel pressure to build through my snubber. Just trying to eliminate fuel pressure being an issue. 

You can control the FASS fuel pump, if it has a relay, from under the hood and bypass using the key by using a jumper wire. Attach the jumper wire to terminal 30 of the FASS fuel pump relay then the positive post of the battery to energize the fuel pump.  This will turn the fuel pump on for as long as you want.

5 hours ago, cumminsman87 said:

I waited for the fuel pressure to build through my snubber. Just trying to eliminate fuel pressure being an issue. 

 

 

I understand.  A question for you, even though it is not related to your starting issues.  Does your lift pump normally keep running with the key in the run position and the engine not running?

 

Hopefully, you have the engine started by now.

 

- John

11 hours ago, Tractorman said:

Does your lift pump normally keep running with the key in the run position and the engine not running?

Yes, it does keep running. 

 

And no have not got it started yet. 

Who did you buy the VP44 from?

1 hour ago, JAG1 said:

Who did you buy the VP44 from?

Thoroughbred Diesel. 

have you followed this?  have you uninstall the edge?  

 

 

While it does seem to be turning over fast enough to start, I would also expect it to crank faster with some well charged and healthy batteries. If the voltage is dropping too low while cranking, that can make the computers act weird, too. Measure voltage while cranking - I do not know off the top of my head what that value should be.

 

Is it spitting any unburned fuel smoke out the tailpipe? If not, I'd see that as a potential issue, too.

 

P0382 is for the grid heater, so if it was me that's one of the first places I'd start.

On 12/19/2022 at 10:15 AM, Me78569 said:

have you followed this?  have you uninstall the edge?  

 

 

Yes i have followed those directions before purchasing the vp44. Everything checks out. Edge is unhooked as well. 

On 12/19/2022 at 5:07 PM, LorenS said:

While it does seem to be turning over fast enough to start, I would also expect it to crank faster with some well charged and healthy batteries. If the voltage is dropping too low while cranking, that can make the computers act weird, too. Measure voltage while cranking - I do not know off the top of my head what that value should be.

 

Is it spitting any unburned fuel smoke out the tailpipe? If not, I'd see that as a potential issue, too.

 

P0382 is for the grid heater, so if it was me that's one of the first places I'd start.

 

I had both batteries tested this evening. One tested a little low on cold cranking amps so it was replaced. The other tested out good. 

I do have some black smoke coming out the tail pipe. 

Did you try and bleed more lines?

Last time I replaced injectors I needed to bleed all 6 lines before it would fire. 

51 minutes ago, Hutch24v said:

Did you try and bleed more lines?

Last time I replaced injectors I needed to bleed all 6 lines before it would fire. 

Yes sir. Even pulled the horn to get #2. 

Man, you’ve thrown the kitchen sink at it..

 

And you bought this truck not running w/unknown mods. Do you know the history of why it stopped running? 

10 hours ago, Hutch24v said:

Man, you’ve thrown the kitchen sink at it..

 

And you bought this truck not running w/unknown mods. Do you know the history of why it stopped running? 

I was told the alarm was set off at one point when it stopped running. But then he had it running once after that. So I dont really know for sure. 

when you followed the article directions where did it fail?     It is either the vp, ecm, or the wiring between the two

2 hours ago, cumminsman87 said:

I was told the alarm was set off at one point when it stopped running. But then he had it running once after that. So I dont really know for sure. 

Mine wouldn't run till I turned the door lock, with the key, twice each time I wanted to start. In my case just it would start for a second then shut down like it supposed to when the alarm sets off. Finally took off the door panel and found if I pulled the alarm wire on the end of the lock cylinder toward the direction of the door hinges everything worked perfect. I set one or two zip ties to keep it gently pulled that direction and everything has been fine.

 

I think you have a relay out or block fuse out that you cannot see burned until you use a magnifying glass to see it thru the little window. best to test with a volt meter for continuity. Something like the alarm may have shut it down and stayed that way, you know, like the alarm shut the engine down but in your case has stayed shut off with an open circuit/ fuse or relay. When the alarm is triggered the horn should set off and you can keep starting the engine again but, always shuts down after a second.

 

I' am convinced you will find the problem. Sometimes it takes the persistence of a tax man.

On 12/21/2022 at 7:37 AM, Me78569 said:

when you followed the article directions where did it fail?     It is either the vp, ecm, or the wiring between the two

I was able to run through the tests again this morning. Here are the results.

Step

#3 12.31 Volts

#4 .1 Ohms

#5 .1 Ohms

#6 Open Loop 

#7 .3 Ohms

#8 Open Loop. So I guess I have a bad ECM? 

 

If someone could explain how this tells me I have a bad ECM I would appreciate it. WIth the ECM being unplugged in this step im not understanding.

Thanks

 

 

 

You are stepping through testing other things that could be bad.  if everything else tests bad then the only thing left is the ecm.  Since there is no direct way to test the ecm you need to rule out other things.

That #8 is not making sense I don't have my diagrams with me, but if that black wire is the shield for the twisted pair CAN bus the shield is only connected at one end of the bus not both ends. I can't remember which end.