Took my truck for it's yearly MOT check today

 failed on drivers side upper and lower ball joint.... no problem got those

drivers side wheel bearing ..... haven't got one, have a 2006 to 2008 but my guess is it will be different ??

Here in the UK a lot of replacement wheel bearings are just that... just the bearing and not the whole thing, we just press the 2 peices apart, remove the bearing and repress back together, is this possible on a 98 4wd with no front ABS, I have a good bearing company not to far from me so if it pressed apart and there's a number on the actual bearing it may be a go ??

Changing the bearing would be quicker than ordering the whole thing from rockauto

Should be able to press it apart being it was manufactured and assembled.

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Should be able to press it apart being it was manufactured and assembled.

Would be easier and faster/cheaper for me due to shipping.   I can't really understand why just the bearing is not available 

Well pulled it all apart, top/bottom ball joints totally worn out and really stiff to turn, that's explained the none return to centre

 

Wheel bearing was also worn out, pressed it apart to see what the deal was and one race was really brinelled, once apart I can now see why the bearing is not available,the races are the whole thing one on the inside, one on the outsite but actually machined into the hub,  I'd got a 06 to 08 bearing so compared the 2 and yes there is a difference, the wheel end is nowhere near the same shape where the disc attaches but the actual bearing looked to be the same other than the new one had abs my truck does not on the front

Pressed the wheel carrier out which pops the bearing seal out and leaves the  inner bearing still on the wheel carrier, carefully removed the individual bearings, the bearing cage was plastic so bearings came out easily then pulled the inner race off of the wheel carrier  using a split bearing puller on the smaller edge, put the bearing back together, the outer seal was a little difficult to get together and in the right place but got it done after a while.

Removed the wheel studs and disc and used the split bearing puller to pull the 1/2 bearing cone off of the old wheel carrier, pressed the new bearing onto my old wheel carrier

Pressed out the old ball joints, pressed new in and built it all up, job done

So 06 to 08 wheel bearings  HA590166 timken with the square 4 hole mounting, the wheel carrier is different BUT the actual bearing and mount is the same as a 1998 Dana 60 bearing, right PITA to swap the wheel carrier but faster than waiting a week or more for one to be shipped to the UK as I need it running and not parked with a wheel in bits

 

4 new tyres  ( TOYO again methinks)  tomorrow and all ok for the MOT recheck

I guess perseverance pays off.  Good job!  Let us know how the truck handles with the new ball joints - should be much better. 

 

- John

7 hours ago, Tractorman said:

I guess perseverance pays off.  Good job!  Let us know how the truck handles with the new ball joints - should be much better. 

 

- John

It is a lot better,  self centres now 

I'd love to see the bearings could you post a picture?

I'll check tomorrow,  don't think I threw them out

In a nutshell the bearing carrier which bolts into the steering knuckle if that's what you call it, on the Dana 60 the centre is sort of square with 4 threaded bolt holes, either side of the square is a circular piece with the taper bearing cone machined into it  then opposing taper bearings with plastic bearing cages and the grease seal and a thin steel shield, this is then all pressed onto the wheel and disc carrier. The ABS unit has the ring in between the 2 bearings the none abs has the same thickness ring but no teeth just smooth 

Most vehicles here the bearing unit itself would press into the bearing carrier so the only thing you buy/replace is a bearing 

Here's pictures of the bearing carrier without the wheel carrier 

Thank you. Yeah it looks like water got into the grease and rust started to form. Interesting to see the internal part of the bearing.

The bearing race that is apart was really badly damaged  here it's  called brinelled, bit like the chicken and the egg, which first,  did the race and rollers wear thus allowing water in or did water get in and cause damage ?  I've seen lots of bearings with the races pitted badly with no water in sight as well as water getting in trashing the bearing, me personally looking at how the bearing is sealed I'd say wear caused the seal to fail making the bearing wear even faster as the seal on both races is pretty basic as in like a hub seal but only about a 1/16th if that deep  so no possibility of sealing with a little wear 

I also think the front brakes on trucks that haul heavy loads with automatic transmissions have a big impact on heat generation conducted from the rotor to the hub.  Excessive heat will harden the seal that is protecting the front bearing and cause premature failure of the seal.  The bearings will suffer after that. 

 

I replaced my front hub bearings for the first time at 374,000 miles.  Of course, I have a 6 speed manual transmission and an exhaust brake which is used all of the time.  I am sure this contributed to the longevity of the front hub bearings.

 

- John

Sorry I tend to forget some people don't have exhaust brake on their trucks. Which isn't the end of the world but @Tractorman is correct there is a lot of heat generated in the front rotors. Like @JAG1 happen to get his brakes hot and lost the front axle bearings shortly afterwards.

Same thing happened to me.  Brakes got smoking hot coming down a grade between Banff to Jasper Canada.   About 6k miles later I was changing the right wheel hub when visiting @Mopar1973Man.  

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Sorry I tend to forget some people don't have exhaust brake on their trucks. Which isn't the end of the world but @Tractorman is correct there is a lot of heat generated in the front rotors. Like @JAG1 happen to get his brakes hot and lost the front axle bearings shortly afterwards.

yep came off an 8.000 ft elevation to about 3,000 ft in just 5 miles. They were smokin'. I continued for another 14/15 hundred miles, a few days later almost made it home, just 30 miles away and one bearing blew, was riding on the caliper. Got towed to a repair shop for 300 bucks and they replaced for 450. When I got home I did the other side so both are the Timken bearings. That was stressful getting thrown over into the fast lane and then trying to crank it over to the roadside. I was lucky the way it turned out.

Come to think of it my brakes got hot earlier in the year,  I did the pads and there was no wear in the bearing or knuckle ball joints then but I I'll bet the bearing wear and ball joints were the reason my truck pulled left when the steering joint snapped