First, and foremost, I was inspired to perform this modification by @Mace (a new member with lots of knowledge) who provided the idea - I never would have thought to do it on my own.  I also want to thank him for providing the "how to do it " information as well as a list of parts.

 

Well, I am finished, but I didn't do it the way Mace from Kamloops did it and in no way is my modification any better that what Mace did -  in fact, some may prefer his modification over mine.  

 

After much of going this way and then that way and then repeating myself, I just finally came to a stand still.  So, I stopped working and started thinking about what I really wanted - which was:

 

*  I want the engine noise that is being transferred through the throttle cable into the cabin - Gone!

*  I want the APPS throttle assembly removed from the engine.

 

So, after re-thinking this AGAIN, I thought why not just remove the assembly from the engine and re-mount it elsewhere in the engine compartment?  That way, nothing changes:

 

*  I keep my fast idle solenoid

*  I keep the adjustable throttle stop

*  I keep the 45° sweep of the APPS

*  I eliminate the transmission of engine noise into the cab.

*  I get the delicate APPS away from the pulsing, vibrating engine!

 

So, that's what I did.  There are no changes inside the cab.  I just relocated the complete throttle assembly to a place between the brake master cylinder and the oil dipstick tube.  I fabricated a custom mounting bracket and used two existing bolts on the the hydraboost / brake master cylinder unit for mounting the bracket.  

 

This photo shows the custom fabricated mount and its new location.

 

 

 

Two more sets of bolts and nuts and the throttle assembly is mounted.

 

  

 

Everything is easily serviceable.  The throttle unit can be unbolted (either from the hydraboost or the APPS mount) with just two fasteners.  The unit can be lifted up and laid flat for throttle cable disconnect / replace.  The APPS can be removed / installed without removing the throttle assembly.  The idle stop and the fast idle can be adjusted with the engine running.  The fuel filter is easy to remove / replace.

 

Now for the best news - the noise is gone!  Absent!  Doesn't matter whether or not my foot is on or off the throttle or if cruise control is engaged or not.  I didn't realize it until now, but that rattly noise was always there to some degree at every throttle position - including foot off the throttle.  When I turn on the Fast Idle switch now, the tach goes to about 1150 rpm and is steady as a rock (used to float +/- 50 rpm).

 

Shoulda done this about 393,000 miles ago!

 

- John

I truly believe that the amount of apps sensor failures are because of the vibration they absorb being engine mounted. Ram eventually went to a pedal apps setup in the later 3rd gens.

 

Well done, looks good!

Awesome mod John! 

 

I'd like to do this to my 01. Can you please provide the length and measurements of your bracket? Can I do this without issue with my auto trans throttle valve cable?

23 minutes ago, 01_Cummins_4x4 said:

Can I do this without issue with my auto trans throttle valve cable?

 

You pose a good question.  Also, how is your cruise control connected?  Will it be an issue, as well?  Also, do you experience the rattly, buzzy sound that is transmitted from the engine, through the throttle cable, and then amplified through the pedal?

 

I think if I was in your shoes, I would disconnect the throttle assembly, but leave the throttle cable and the downshift cable connected.  Then, I would try to place the assembly into position and observe how the cables behave.  This is how I determined that mine would fit into the location it now resides. 

 

Something that I found interesting..., the throttle assembly is used on 2003 and 2004 Dodge Cummins trucks, too.  My brother-in-law owns a 2003, but it does not have one mounted to the engine.  I followed the throttle cable in the engine compartment and found it does use the throttle assembly - it's hidden under the driver side battery!  So, I'm thinking that Dodge moved it for some reason.

 

If you want to pursue making the change, just let me know - I will help any way I can.

 

- John

Any way we could get some pics of where it used to be mounted? 

 Also, if I'm not mistaken, your mod cost you basically nothing other than time?

  

It used to be mounted on the left side front of engine.  The piece in the photo can be removed, as well.  I left it in place because that is where my coolant filter is mounted.  It uses the two holes on top.

 

 

Very little additional cost.  A couple of Deutsch connectors.

 

- John

 

I’m ocd when I make harnesses I can not have splices or unions. 
 

John, you can buy Duetsch terminal pliers for crimping the terminals on and avoid splices/unions. 
 

Your apps is still in the engine bay so it’s susceptible to moisture and the elements. 

Duly noted.  There is sealant inside the heat shrink and I wrapped the wires full length with electrical tape.  Just not shown in the photo.

 

I just recently started using Deutsch connectors, so I will invest in the crimping tools.

 

- John

I'm still interested in this mod.

 

I see to have quite a bit of noise in my cab, but I didn't know what is causing it.

 

Doug

It is easy to test if there is noise being transmitted by the throttle.  Set the cruise to about 65 mph and take your foot off the throttle.  If there a noise, or a change in noise, or a noise that goes away (or gets worse) when you touch or rest your foot on the throttle, then you know there is engine noise being transmitted by the throttle.  The noise is like a buzzy / rattly sound.  Mine was there since the day I bought the truck.  I just thought it was normal.  Occasionally, my wife would ask me, "What is that noise?" and I would go, "Yeah, annoying, isn't it?"

 

If this noise is occurring in your throttle, it is not necessary to re-mount the throttle assembly in the same place that I did, it just needs to be detached from the engine and mounted somewhere else.

 

- John

 

My 01 does seem like it's more noisy than any of the other 2nd gen 24v pickups I've had. 

Edited December 2, 2024Dec 2 by 01_Cummins_4x4

Hua... Maybe consider upgrading to a Timbos APPS and skip the relocate. My last Timbos lasted like many years with no issues. Timbo is completely electronics free unit with all mechanical parts.

 

 

Timbo doesn’t make an apps. He resells a Williams Control one, I made a post about this explaining it as I feel it’s huge scam.

 

He even claims on his website as to what he sells. I listed the part number for everyone as it shouldn’t be a secret.

 

Apps in the engine bay is an outdated idea. They don’t don’t do it anymore. They moved it from the engine to underneath the driver battery on later 3rd gens to now it’s a pedal combination. Where it’s safe from vibration and the elements.

Edited December 1, 2024Dec 1 by Mace

5 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Maybe consider upgrading to a Timbos APPS and skip the relocate. My last Timbos lasted like many years with no issues.

 

I didn't perform the relocation for concern of the life of the APPS.   My original APPS lasted for 289,000 miles (17 years).  I have just over 100,000 miles on the Timbo replacement that I now know is really a re-wired Williams Control unit (thanks to @Mace).

 

I relocated the APPS throttle assembly because of the amount of noise the throttle transmitted into the cab - this is what @01_Cummins_4x4 is asking about.   

 

- John

 

 

Edited December 2, 2024Dec 2 by Tractorman

I lost my factory APPS to dead pedal back before 100k. I got my first Timbos years ago. Still the simple fact there is no electronics to fail. Back on my second APPS there was no after market parts that APPS was dealer only at the time costing 520. Yeah Timbos at 180 at the time was CHEAP.