So 17k on a reman long block, initial 1000 miles were broke in with synthetic oil (against manufacture requirements) as soon as I learned I flushed and refilled with DINO oil. That being said, I'm now at 17k and loosing about a quart every 200 miles. I REALLY believe it is my turbo (original to the truck, currently 451k miles. Not blowing smoke but the tailpipe is sooty... no oil "leaks" under the truck.

If the turbo was leaking oil, how would it be indicated?

at $600 to get a reman from Thoroughbred Diesel and I just better replacing the turbo than paying a shop $300 just to find the oil leak?

Is there a better/cheaper place to get a reman turbo?

WHAT is the possibility that 1000 miles on synthetic could have caused issues with the OIL ring on any or all of the pistons during break in?

Thanks guys.

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Some how you need to see the valve stems to see if oil is weeping past the valve seals.

350k on Beast

1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If valve guides are bad the valves will rock and eat the seals off the valve. This will allow oil in during idling and low boost conditions.

That is beyond my ability to diagnose and ultimately if it is drinking oil by anything internal to the engine, it is a warranty... I'm just trying to rule out external issues, while HOPING that it is something stupid simple that I can fix... I mean they will cover a LOT if it is a warranty but I really don't even want to go there if I can avoid it....

Sadly if it's not leaking on the ground it leaking internally and being burnt as fuel.

Vacuum pump would leak on the ground

Front / rear crank seal would leak on theme ground

Tappet cover would leak on the ground.

Valve cover would leak on the ground.

Valve seals yup it would be burnt as fuel and only be seen after the engine sat all night and Valve stems would be wet with engine oil.

Piston rings yup could burn the oil as fuel too but blow by would be noticed typically. There is one case here from @jlwelding that had a cracked piston that past blow by test. Only proper way to test is a compression test. Lower compression would point that out.

after sitting on it and obsessing. I am going to go on and pull the Holset completely off and see if I have carbon at the exit of the exhaust manifold to the mate of the turbo.. I mean I'm literally at two bolts and and oil drain... I don't know how hot it has to be to turn liquid oil into the carbon covering the exhaust side of the turbo.... so MAYBE it could still be the turbo slowly leaking oil versus dumping oil out the exhaust. if the truck side of the exhaust manifold is sooty... then it has to be coming from inside the engine...at which point I document my oil loss and submit the claim... I just don't see how it would be doing that without blowby showing up or oil being on the ground or coating the entire length of the truck.

Oil will burn off during running. This is why I mention looking after it sat for a night it will leave a wet trace on the valves stem as you look in each port. Intake is bit tricky but if you had a wifi bore scope you could look at each port see if the valve stems are wet with oil.

Edited 14 hours ago14 hr by Mopar1973Man

SOOOOO I am now 98% sure that it IS the turbo... I can rub a finger inside of the exhaust housing and VERY little carbon rubs off... but rub a finger in the tail housing and a noxious substance covers my finger and is hard to get off. Problem now is I have to put my old turbo back onto the truck, the A-Premium turbo can't be clocked far enough left because they have a rigid bracket NOT on the turbo housing holding it.. that bracket can not be moved. Last thing, while I have the whole turbo out, what do I need to order for the drain, it looks like just a piece of rubber hose... but it is oily so I'm replacing it. Suggestions on where to get a good reman turbo? right now I'm looking at Thoroughbred Diesel, they have a ROTOMASTER reman for $545 with a core, only problem is a 5 day lead time to get it.

Heater hose will work for the drain to block connection.