I have a 95 chevy van and it wont start.It is our church van.I dont want to get black flagged.I tryed everything i can think of and no dice.If asking this is somekind of internet fopa just delete this thread.I just figured someone here could help us.

Sure... Ask away! I gather its a gasser? If so you need to check your basics. 1. Is there fuel? 2. Is there spark? 3. Is there compression?

Whats it have for an engine?

try a shot of starting fluid in the intake see if it will hit, as already posted fuel, ignition, neutral safety switch?,does it turn over, no start or is it completely dead

Yes It is a gas 5.7.I have fuel,spark and compression(only100).It turns over just dont start.The story.I only run this for a ministry at church maybe 10 miles away.The last sunday i parked it it ran fine all day.Then no start one week later.I checked the rotor and the harmonic balancer.When the hb is at tdc(0) the # one spark is on # one.So to me the timing chain is set(It is new).I tryed starting fluid nothing.Replaced:ecm (not the prom chip),Timing chain,Plugs,rotor,cap,Fuel pressure regulator,distribitor spark modual(under cap)I have fuel in the tank.I can hear the pump kick in and run.

Ok...

Do you phyically have spark at the plugs? Good blue spark?

How about smell of fuel after being crank for a good period? Tailpipe should be strong smell of fuel.

100 PSI is a bit marginal but should still run.

If you used starting fluid that should of got a kick of the plugs are firing... I would back track the ignition and be sure of the plug firing consistantly. Remember if you flood the cylinder the plug will be wet and will not fire.

--- Update to the previous post...

Went digging...

General Inspection

1. Ensure proper starting procedure is being used.

2. Visually check vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and improper connections. See underhood emission control

information label. Check ignition wires for cracks, hardness, and improper connections at distributor cap

and spark plugs.

3. Remove spark plugs. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Remove distributor cap and check for moisture, dust, cracks, burns, and arcing to ground through coil

mounting screws or rotor.

5. Try to turn distributor shaft by hand. Drive gear pin may be broken.

6. If vehicle has been exposed to very cold temperatures, ensure oil is of proper viscosity and not

contaminated with gasoline.

Ignition System

1. Disconnect tachometer wire at distributor tachometer terminal (if equipped). A shorted tachometer or

tachometer circuit prevents vehicle from starting. Ensure TP sensor and coolant sensor codes are not

present, and sensors are not out of calibration.

2. Check for battery voltage at "+" terminal of ignition coil with ignition on. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 . Repair

as necessary.

3. Connect Spark Tester (ST-125) to end of one plug wire. Crank engine. If spark is present, check fuel

delivery.

4. If spark does not occur, disconnect 4-wire EST connector at distributor and check for spark at ignition

coil tower using Spark Tester (ST-125). If spark now occurs, check cap and rotor for damage or wear.

Check for open in coil wires.

5. If spark does not occur, reconnect EST connector. Leave spark tester connected to coil tower for

remainder of test. Disconnect ignition coil Black 2-wire connector, and check voltage on "C" and "+"

terminals with ignition on.

6. If voltage on both terminals is 10 volts or greater, go to next step. If voltage on both terminals is less than

10 volts, repair wire from module "+" terminal to "B" terminal on coil Black 2-wire connector. If voltage

is less than 10 volts on "C" terminal only, check for open or short to ground in circuit from "C" terminal

of ignition module to ignition coil. If circuit is okay, problem is faulty coil or coil connections.

7. Connect voltmeter between ground and tachometer terminal at coil with ignition on. Tachometer terminal

may be taped back against harness. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, go to step 9).

8. If voltage is 1-10 volts, replace ignition module and check for spark at coil tower using Spark Tester (ST-

125). If voltage is less than one volt, repair open in tachometer lead or tachometer connector. After

repairs, recheck voltage at tachometer terminal.

9. Connect test light between ground and tachometer terminal. Crank engine. If test light remains on

(steady), go to next step. If test light flashes, replace ignition coil with a known-good unit and recheck for

spark. If spark does not occur, reinstall original ignition coil and replace ignition module.

10. Remove distributor cap. Unplug ignition module pick-up coil connector. Connect voltmeter between

ground and tachometer terminal. Turn ignition on. Using jumper wires, connect positive end of a knowngood

1.5-volt battery to terminal "P" of module. Observe voltmeter at tachometer terminal as negative

end of test battery is momentarily grounded to distributor housing.

11. If voltage at tachometer terminal does not drop, check ignition module ground. Check for open in wires

from ignition coil to module. If all is okay, replace ignition module.

12. If voltage at tachometer terminal drops, check for spark at spark tester as jumper is removed from

terminal "P". If spark does not occur, go to next step. If spark occurs, check pick-up coil connections.

Check for 500-1500 ohms resistance at pick-up coil leads. Ensure leads are not shorted to ground. Repair

as necessary.

13. Test ignition module with module tester. If module tests okay, check ignition coil wire. If module tester is

not available, replace ignition coil, and touch terminal "P" again. If spark occurs, system is okay. If spark

does not occur, reinstall original ignition coil, and check coil wire from distributor cap. If no problem is

found, replace ignition module.

Fuel System (TBI)

1. Before checking fuel system for a no-start condition, check ignition for adequate spark. Check for proper

fuel pump pressure (9-13 psi) and capacity (one pint in 30 seconds). See the A-7, BASIC FUEL

SYSTEM CHECKS .

2. Crank engine, and watch for injector spray. If injector spray occurs, go to step 5). If no spray occurs,

disconnect injector harness. Check for battery voltage at harness with ignition on. Battery voltage should

be present on one injector terminal. If battery voltage is not present, check for blown injector power fuse.

If battery voltage is present on both terminals, check for wires shorted together.

3. If battery voltage is present on only one terminal, connect injector test light to injector harness. Crank

engine, and note light. If light flashes, check for stored PCM codes. See DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT

CHECK . If no codes are present, refer to HARD START symptom in TESTS W/O CODES -

GASOLINE article in this section. If light does not flash, momentarily touch test light from battery

voltage to PCM RPM reference terminal (circuit No. 430 - Purple/White wire).

4. Each time test light is removed from PCM RPM reference terminal, injector test light should flash. If test

light does not flash, check for open in RPM reference wire or injector drive (ground) circuit. If wiring is

okay, replace faulty PCM. Before replacing PCM, check PCM power and ground circuits.

5. Disconnect injector harness, and crank engine. If injector spray or leakage occurs, a no-start condition

may be caused by excessive fuel being delivered during cranking. Repair faulty injector or injector seal. If

no spray or leakage occurs, refer to HARD START symptom in TESTS W/O CODES - GASOLINE

article in this section.

NO START - ENGINE CRANKS OKAY (ENHANCED/HIGH VALUE IGNITION SYSTEM)

General Inspection

1. Ensure proper starting procedure is being used.

2. Visually check vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and improper connections. See underhood emission control

information label. Check ignition wires for cracks, hardness, and improper connections at distributor cap

and spark plugs.

3. Remove spark plugs. Check and replace if necessary.

4. Remove distributor cap and check for moisture, dust, cracks or burns. Try to turn distributor shaft by

hand. Drive gear pin may be broken.

5. If vehicle has been exposed to very cold temperatures, ensure oil is of proper viscosity and not

contaminated with gasoline.

Ignition System

1. Check if Code P1221 is stored. If code is present, diagnose code first. Check TP sensor voltage. If TP

sensor voltage is greater than 2.5 volts at closed throttle, see Code P0118. Check ECT sensor reading. If

ECT sensor reading is -30°C, see Code P0118. See TESTS W/CODES - 5.7L article.

2. Turn ignition off for 10 seconds. Turn ignition on. Listen for fuel pump operation. Fuel pump should

operate for 2 seconds. If fuel pump operates, go to next step. If fuel pump does not operate, check fuel

pump relay and circuit. Proceed to the SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - 5.7L article.

3. Disconnect injector connector at intake manifold. Connect Injector Test Light (J 34730) to wiring harness

connector. Crank engine. If injector test light flashes, go to next step. If injector test light does not flash or

stays on steady, go to step 6).

4. Disconnect one spark plug wire. Install Spark Tester (ST-125). Crank engine and check for spark. If spark

is present, go to next step. If spark is not present, proceed to the C-4, BASIC IGNITION SYSTEM

CHECKS .

5. Reconnect spark plug wire. Turn ignition off. Relieve fuel pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE

RELIEF . Connect Fuel Pressure Gauge (J 34730-1). Turn ignition on. Fuel pressure should be 55-61 psi

(3.9-4.3 kg/cm2 ) when fuel pump stops. Pressure should hold steady. If fuel pressure is as specified and

holds steady, check injectors. See SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - 5.7L article. If fuel pressure is

not as specified, go to A-7, BASIC FUEL SYSTEM CHECKS .

6. If injector test light does not illuminate, go to next step. If injector test light stayed on steady, check for

short to ground in injector circuit. If circuit is okay, check injector resistance. Injector resistance should

be greater than 1.3 ohms. If resistance is as specified, replace VCM-A. If resistance is not as specified,

replace faulty injector.

7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect coil high voltage wire. Disconnect3-pin crank sensor harness connector.

Turn ignition on. Using test light connected to battery, momentarily touch test light to Yellow wire crank

sensor harness connector terminal. If injector test light flashed, check for faulty crank sensor harness

connection or faulty crank sensor. If injector test light does not flash, go to next step.

8. Turn ignition off. Check for open or grounded Yellow wire to crank sensor or faulty VCM-A connector.

If wire or connector is okay, remove injector test light.

9. Turn ignition on. Using test light connected to ground, probe engine harness connector. If test light

illuminates on one of the terminals, go to next step. If test light illuminates on both terminals, repair short

to voltage in circuit. If test light does not illuminate on either terminal, repair open between ignition coil

Pink wire to VCM-A.

10. Turn ignition off. Reconnect injector connector. Disconnect Red VCM-A connector. Turn ignition on.

Using test light connected to ground, probe VCM-A terminal No. RE3. If test light illuminates, check for

faulty VCM-A connector or faulty VCM-A. If test light does not illuminate, check for faulty VCM-A

connector or open in circuit.

I've had cases where the engine with nothing wrong with it... but wouldn't run. Sometimes just sticking new plugs in will work wonders.

Throttle body problem possibly. Does it smell like it floods when trying to start or does it act like no fuel? I have seen the injectors on the throttle bodies go bad quite often also check the wiring to the injectors.

The spark is more yellow than blue.I tryed fresh plugs.I will try the list Mike posted sunday afternoon and report back.Thank you all for the input.

If its orange or yellow you have elec. problem

Yellow spark turned blue with new dist and coil.Thanks guys.

Ok... I got tidbits for you here... I got called out fo fix a 1991 Ford F150 that been sitting for several years. Battery was good and placed a battery charger on it. No fuel and found out someone had pulled the dual tank module under the dash. Using a paper clip I bridge between the +12V and the front tank pump. Now have fuel in the rail. But only firing on 1 cylinder... We spent over 2 hours cleaning fouled plugs and still only firing on 1 cylinder. Problem... The rotor had burned a hole straight through to the shaft. So for testing purpose I cut up a old water bottle making a small disc and packed a dry paper towel on top. Bam! It fired up and ran for a short period till it found a way around the paper and plastic... So what I'm getting at is look REALLY close at all ignition parts make sure they are clean! Look for burns or carbon tracks that could cause problems. I've seen old school Chevy HEI coils crack and leak spark...

yellow spark on HEI,, I'd suggest a weak coilpack.

The ignite is more yellow-colored than glowing blue.I tryed fresh attaches.I will try the list Scott published weekend mid-day and review on their behavior.Thank you all for the feedback. ______________ Fowlers Finance Reviews