tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?

i believe i surpasse both of those numbers. when i adjusted mine the worse intake was .0013 or 4 and the worse exaust was .0024 or 5. seemed pretty good after 10 years and 240k. thanks for the info.

so i was curious and couldnt find the answer to the torque on the locking nuts that lock the adjuster screw down on the rocker. All the FSM says is "tight"... i can make a grade 8 bolt tight to the point i break it... literally (ive done it before)when i did mine i got them tight, hopeully not too tight. i do need to redo them as i didnt let the engine cool enough. I was thinking of setting them to 7-17 see if that quiets the valve clatter i hear.

My book says 27 ft pounds.

Does adjusting them to 18 an 8 really help? I did mine at~160 and did stock specs. I'm at 245K now and might tighten em up a bit if it helps. Havent really found a definate answer on this.

other than being quieter i did not notice a differance.

other than being quieter i did not notice a differance.

Like Dripley I really didn't see a huge change but I did notice a change in the exhaust brake sounds and high RPM's... (0.008 and 0.018) Same MPG numbers but it does spool the turbo a bit quicker. (Seat-o-pants dyno)...

i only drove mine for one week after the adjustment. then installed a set of rv 275's:thumbup2:. i did notice a differance then, but attribute that to the injectors. the adjustment could have contrbuted also. i just did not drive it long enough to know.

Ok, now thats its finally cooled off outside my truck is puffing black on a cold start now instead of white. I know this is backwards from what most people get but I dont get it. Could my ecm be retarted?

Are you by chance getting problems with trans dragging or something dragging on the engine causing the governor to keep fueling heavy?The only time I see black smoke is 3 cylinder high idle, exhaust brake on, and the grid heater hitting then the governor throttles up and blows black smoke.

Nope, just the puff when its first started.

Normal...Watch the start of the this video...

I ususall get a little puff of black smoke when first started, hot or cold.

I have always had a puff of black at startup until recently then its been white at 70 degrees or above but when its cold (below 50) its black again.

Mine used to be black then it turned white. I got a compression tester for xmas that I wasn't expecting but man is it gonna be fun to use. Now that the dodge is sitting it out, I will tear it all apart and see if there is any cause to the white instead of black smoke. Wish I had a pop tester, maybe next year.

Mine used to be black then it turned white. I got a compression tester for xmas that I wasn't expecting but man is it gonna be fun to use. Now that the dodge is sitting it out, I will tear it all apart and see if there is any cause to the white instead of black smoke. Wish I had a pop tester, maybe next year.

If you do you'll end up pop tuning my injectors...

I'm curious of the compresion values you get...

Can I borrow it

If you do you'll end up pop tuning my injectors... I'm curious of the compresion values you get...

Geez if I knew I coulda had that much business with it and a pop tester I woulda just gone out and bought one and quit my job months ago

Are you going to buy a pop tester and quit your job? :pant:Seriously with your talent and skill for the older 12V truck if you had both a pop tester and a compression gauge you could make some money doing diagnostics and such...:thumbup2:But I need to bring the thread back to topic again of OP... As for starting smoke a puff of any color is normal but as for continueous smoke of blue/white color is not good.

Are you going to buy a pop tester and quit your job? Seriously with your talent and skill for the older 12V truck if you had both a pop tester and a compression gauge you could make some money doing diagnostics and such... But I need to bring the thread back to topic again of OP... As for starting smoke a puff of any color is normal but as for continueous smoke of blue/white color is not good.

My uncle is begging me to go to colorado to go to this diesel school for the biggest dump trucks on earth I guess, letourneaus I think, however thats spelled. He says they have a hard time finding competent people. Anyways, white smoke means unburnt fuel, low compression, crappy injector, I believe it to be a sign on an older engine with lower compression from worn stuff which causes white smoke because it isn't building enough heat so it gives off unburnt fuel until the engine has pumped up enough heat to burn off the fuel. Black smoke is partially burnt fuel. I think this is caused on initial startup because the engine is turning at cranking RPM yet fueling at idle RPM so when it does start, there is some disagreement on fueling amounts until it gets to idle RPM which causes some partially burn fuel. I have yet to figure out why trucks change from black to white smoke. Timing might be a slight issue, though mine smoked at 0* timing somewhat, but less than at stock timing. Pop pressure could be low enough to cause an effect similiar to advanced timing, which advanced timing definitely makes it smoke more. If the valve isn't seating correctly, it could cause it from not allowing proper compression which might heal itself as the engine warms up, but you would hear it hissing most likely. Can't think of much else. Being a 24V it could be anything lol.