I have a "minor" issue but figure I had better ask now before it gets worse. While travelling at very slow speeds through my neighborhood at the point where the trany shifts from 1st to 2nd it tends to jump back and forth from 1st to 2nd to 1st, and so on. Simply advancing or reducing the RPMs makes it quit. Any ideas? Tanks

Trans fluid color and smell?How about the last time you changed fluid and adjusted the bands?

This is what i was told, 1st to 2nd is a fluid gear change. 2nd to 3rd is a fluid gear change, 3rd to od and od to lock up is a computer gear change. Is it a stock tranny ?How many miles are on the tranny ? Do you run a programmer like edge box,or any other box that makes 120 hp or more. If yes, how long was the box on the truck? When you take off from a dead stop does it feel like it kinda pulsates or shimmys as you go? You would only feel this maybe 0 to 10 feet from the dead stop.

The guy that changed the VP also changed the filter/fluid and adjusted the bands (yesterday). Not sure if the trany is modified but was told it had been rebuilt about 50k miles ago. Guy turned out to be a liar so no telling what's true. Yes, I run a Edge Juice w/attitude. This shifting happens at slow speeds (5-10 MPH) but doesn't feel like it's slipping at those speeds at all. Once while towing my 21 ft toy hauler w/toy inside, it felt like it slipped (higher RPMs than normal) when taking off from a stop turning a corner that had a bit on an incline. What's the best test of a transmission on these vehicles, short of power-braking and smoking the tires...or is that the true test?

No dont do that. Most people go by adding 120 hp or so on a stock tranny is the limit. I would take it back to the tranny guy and have him check it.

Sound like that trans is at it limit... All auto's are weak from the get go. The biggest thing is to hook up a trans temp gauge and monitor temps. As for the slippage most have to update the torque converter and the valve body to keep them going so if it slipping you might have it look at again by another shop.

Haven't seen any temps above 160. Guess I'll have to take a look at the TC. I know it's got that draining issue where the fluid drains from the TC when not running for a few hours. If I try to put it into gear without allowing warm-up time, which I avoid, it won't move for a few seconds. Thanks for the help...again.

Sometimes neutral helps the fluid flow better than park. I cooked a torque converter. The guy who built mine cut the old one open for me to see,he pointed out the ban that i killed. It looked about 3/4 of an inch wide and i had worn it on the sides.

Just a diff opinion:) doubt there is anything wrong with your tranny . My understanding is shifts are all controlled by changes in line pressure and solenoids in vb .... The bands help the physical shift of the clutches . The line pressure is also tied to you tps . So .... The tranny would have to be heavily glazed burnt clutches to slip and you would feel it. What your describing is a problem with the solenoids and or tps as they are interconnected If stock I would replace vb and check tps and cable If already upgraded vb I would pull it and clean or replace solenoids and check tps and cable 2cents ;)

The first thing you should do is make sure that all electrical connections and grounds are good and clean. Just dirty battery terminals can interrupt the electrical signal to the tranny. While the battery cables are off it is a good time to reset the TPS. That is cheap and easy to do and can cure a lot of transmission malfunctions.

Yeh my trans sometimes does this to. I was told to change the solenoid to a borg warner or the gm converted one and this would fix my problem:shrug:

do what clutch says above 1st - its free look into the foil as per this doc - section http://www.turbodieselregister.com/articlelive/categories/Technical-Information/?Page=3 Then clean fluid for tranny and clean the solenoid etc this is all FREE after that probably try the solenoid upgrade

Thanks but I've already tried this and the previous owner (as I discovered) also put in a frequency filter. I'll keep checking for corroded contact areas. I don't like my battery terminal setup and have been considering other options. Don't know if it's from the factory but the positive connector on the main battery has a lot hooked to the terminal. I've cleaned and tightened them before. What other grounds should I check and where are they located? Thanks

Hey man - yeah sorry - that ^^^ was for jshmohr I think for you you should clean out your trans pan, disconnect you GP solenoid etc and clean and reconnect. And see where you are at. Did you confirm if you have a modified VB at all ? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.html

Not yet. Probably won't get to it for a week or so. Got to chance it and tow my toy hauler to the mountains here in Arizona for a hunting trip. I guess I'll have to keep my fingers crossed. Can't miss bull elk hunt. Gotta have priorities.

Hey man - yeah sorry - that ^^^ was for jshmohr I think for you you should clean out your trans pan, disconnect you GP solenoid etc and clean and reconnect. And see where you are at. Did you confirm if you have a modified VB at all ? http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/381985-47re-governor-solenoid-sensor-swap-pics.html

Yeh my trans was rebuilt 1 1/2 yrs ago with new oem solenoid but not the borg warner one that is what I think I am going to try, thanks!