Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

23 minutes ago, kzimmer said:

Maybe a high resistance ground has caused you 4 failed alternators, haha. I kid I kid.

 

Beat to the punch... Already tested the voltage drop from battery to alternator case near zero. Also tested the AC noise too. 

On 9/3/2017 at 10:24 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Beat to the punch... Already tested the voltage drop from battery to alternator case near zero. Also tested the AC noise too. 

 

I tested from the grid intake studs, and measured this way?

Best to test as close to the alternator as possible. Like a stud on the alternator case that is clean and bare metal would be best. 

I will advise this, that my truck was having random TC lock up issues before the alternator blew up. And at the time growing up on the shore I noticed the fog, and rain made it worse. headlights on, made it worse.

Now I did replace the rectifier and it did it still but not as bad. Ended up testing the ground cables with a vDrop test, and discovered the passenger cable was good, but the drivers cable was borderline failing. Replaced both cables and the issue went away.

I also replaced the reman alternator with a New Denso alternator from the local dodge Dealership.

All, 

 

First I want to thank Mopar1973MAN and everyone who has posted here, very helpful. I have recently purchased a 2001 CTD Extended Cab, 2500, Auto with 203K miles. Trans was rebuilt previous to me, not sure what they did or what parts were used. I have a Smarty for it, FASS liftpump, Aftermarket Injector Pump, Oversized Injectors (100HP I think). I have the TC lock/unlock shutter bad. Now it is vibrating even when I let off the pedal and everything I have tried is not working. Here is what I have done so far:

Checked all grounds, cleaned and reattached. Removed PCM plugs, cleaned and replugged, Voltmeter and Bench test of Alternator. I need a better meter for this as mine showed it was slowly increasing with RPM's and made it up to .4, thinking meter was bad. The bench test is hard as Advanced Auto is the only one with a tester and their tester just shows that it is under .5 and that they consider that good. I took the Alternator to a reputable rebuild and test shop and they acted like they didnt believe it was an issue and said they tested it and that it was "FINE". 

 

I want to rebuild the alternator myself ( have no issue with this, I rebuild everything of my own and my background is electronics, but way back no recent work in this field). Are there recommendations on a good parts supplier for this? And what all should be replaced? 

I found this online so far: https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/denso/er/if/alternator-p10709.html

 

Also I want to test my cables, voltage drop and continuity, what is the best or proper procedure for this? 

 

Looking for any help, I love the truck but will not be able to keep it if this cannot be resolved. Just frustrated. 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

1 hour ago, jlongjohn said:

All, 

 

First I want to thank Mopar1973MAN and everyone who has posted here, very helpful. I have recently purchased a 2001 CTD Extended Cab, 2500, Auto with 203K miles. Trans was rebuilt previous to me, not sure what they did or what parts were used. I have a Smarty for it, FASS liftpump, Aftermarket Injector Pump, Oversized Injectors (100HP I think). I have the TC lock/unlock shutter bad. Now it is vibrating even when I let off the pedal and everything I have tried is not working. Here is what I have done so far:

Checked all grounds, cleaned and reattached. Removed PCM plugs, cleaned and replugged, Voltmeter and Bench test of Alternator. I need a better meter for this as mine showed it was slowly increasing with RPM's and made it up to .4, thinking meter was bad. The bench test is hard as Advanced Auto is the only one with a tester and their tester just shows that it is under .5 and that they consider that good. I took the Alternator to a reputable rebuild and test shop and they acted like they didnt believe it was an issue and said they tested it and that it was "FINE". 

 

I want to rebuild the alternator myself ( have no issue with this, I rebuild everything of my own and my background is electronics, but way back no recent work in this field). Are there recommendations on a good parts supplier for this? And what all should be replaced? 

I found this online so far: https://www.aspwholesale.com/alternators/denso/er/if/alternator-p10709.html

 

Also I want to test my cables, voltage drop and continuity, what is the best or proper procedure for this? 

 

Looking for any help, I love the truck but will not be able to keep it if this cannot be resolved. Just frustrated. 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

First, Have you unhooked the alternator to confirm that the alternator is indeed the cause?

Second Shutter can be caused by to much torque management provided by the smarty, this is why I refer the previous.

Also, any bench test done by a shop included AC from the actual test machine, I've seen Alternators test a .4 on the machine, and on my truck it tests .2 on my Fluke Meter.

 

A VDrop test is much better to test on these, and I have noticed a trend of failing Drivers side ground cables causing TC lock up issues.

Mike should be able to chime in correctly, but I believe that you use your voltmeter on the voltage setting, and put the positive probe on the engine, and the ground on the battery ground post. the difference should be noted.

 

here is the article Link

 

 

Thanks for the link, I am searching and finding tons of good resources here. So I did a ton of things today. First I disconnected the alternator and took a ride. Somewhat better but some vibration still there. So I have been noticing a screeching sound when pulling out and it was really bad today, I suspected the driveshaft u-joints but when I crawled under and tried to turn it it was solid. Had a friend look underneath while pulling out and he thought he saw movement in the rear u-joint so I looked while he moved the truck and sure enough it was at the rear u-joint. It was very tight but when I took it apart I only found a couple needle bearings in the whole joint. Took it for a ride and the constant vibration was gone but still shudder there under light to no acceleration. So I started testing cables. All were good except the passenger side battery to block. The connection at the block was corroded, I missed doing this one when I went over the body grounds and PCM/ECM grounds. I took it for a ride and it was the same. So I tested voltages at various points with the truck running, and I noticed the ac ripple was fluctuating up and down in rythym with something I could hear in the truck. It was the ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge. Since I have owned it the gauge always bounced up and down from 15-20 constantly while driving. I neede to change the fuel filter anyway so I did the filter and the inline prefilter on my FASS. After the change my pressure is constant at 20, so I took it for a ride and it seems like the issue is gone! So maybe the FASS pump fluctuation or the driveshaft vibration made the shudder worse? I have tried both the stock ecm settings and smarty #3 which is fuel, timing, and boost but not catcher. Didn't want to add torque management yet. Funny thing is it still feels like it limits as my boost and acceleration rise it reaches a point where it lets off and I am still in the pedal. Not sure where to go next. 

Ive done everything listed here in this thread and then some. Still doing it and Im done. Anyone wanna buy a 2001 with 170000 miles brand new ATS stage 5 tranny and common bolt ons 

Edited October 10, 20177 yr by Carl Steven Clendenning

$1000 is always my offer on any truck  

I find it beyond crazy that there is NO solution to this problem. What does dodge say about this? I know it an issue because EVERYONE knows the issue. Whats the solution? No bandaids please, ive tried them all.

Typically it's an alternator issue or tail shaft speed sensor either or... I will not suggest Band-Aids. I will suggest you have you alternator bench tested.

On 10/10/2017 at 12:14 PM, Carl Steven Clendenning said:

Ive done everything listed here in this thread and then some. Still doing it and Im done. Anyone wanna buy a 2001 with 170000 miles brand new ATS stage 5 tranny and common bolt ons 

 

When testing are you using a good quality voltage meter? also can you give a list of things you have replaced, or tested on the electrical system.

 

Also how was you battery grounds when doing a vDrop test?

After putting new cables, terminals, alternator cable, batteries, and 2 alternators in my truck I was still having issues.  My alternator was testing good but I was still getting the unlock/lock issue.  I found an article online somewhere talking about the little ground connectors on the passenger side causing issues.  My new cables spliced in before these connections so I just cut them out and respliced.  I now have gone a few months without issue.  

2 minutes ago, Mr. Bojangles said:

After putting new cables, terminals, alternator cable, batteries, and 2 alternators in my truck I was still having issues.  My alternator was testing good but I was still getting the unlock/lock issue.  I found an article online somewhere talking about the little ground connectors on the passenger side causing issues.  My new cables spliced in before these connections so I just cut them out and respliced.  I now have gone a few months without issue.  

Did you get rid of three grey plugs (female and male) that are from the negative to the body grounds and go to the PCM. these were a problem area for me also.

 

I just put dielectric grease on all the plugs after 15 years still working just fine.

I'm usually wrong about suggestions, but on one of my two second gens, both nice trucks, I found a faulty ground thru the alternator bracket and alternator does not have a wired ground So I added wired grounds from alternator housing to neg. battery on both trucks.

 

I have no clues if it has helped but, will say on the truck I removed the grey connectors and soldered them back together had a slight shifting problem before has never come back.

 

Now the other truck is showing the same shifting problem and still has the grey connectors well you know where those connectors is going.........

 

BTW, I also added a big gauge wire ground from PCM to the firewall instead of pea unie factory wire. lol

Edited October 14, 20177 yr by JAG1

I have often wondered why those connectors are even there. They just dont seem to have purpose.

I agree I pulled them apart like Mopar Man and put the dielectric grease to them for the second time I have had the truck for 12 years . The problem in my area Nova Scotia Canada is the salt water and air has the salt fog which rust everything. I just put a new truck box on the truck from Texas and undercoating is a must in our area but the Lobsters are great also. I see post of trucks on the site and some of the trucks have zero rust on them makes me cry as I get ready for undercoating again.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

I have often wondered why those connectors are even there. They just dont seem to have purpose.

So you can replace the battery cables without cutting the cable or replacing the entire loom.

Makes sense if I had been thinking stock. I changed that one over to military style a good while back and forgot it was originally part of the terminal clamp. Duh huh.