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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

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Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.

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  • Here ya go!  After the rebuild as compared with the two meter pictures from above.   DC         AC Ripple     The read out   And finally ......wait for it.........drum roll........ T

  • Mopar1973Man
    Mopar1973Man

    What is bugging me to no end is the fact there is all these wild write up of people adjusting APPS sensors, wiring mods, extra grounds, filters, etc. I still say the truck ran fine without any of thes

  • 6inarow-01
    6inarow-01

    Hey guys I believe I am the person Michael is talking about when he created this Thread... Seeing as how I replaced both batt. new alt., new apps sensor... took it to best diesel shop in town and they

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I have never messed with an auto tranny before. So have no clue how to do a band adjustment does anyone have any vids I def do not want to bring to a shop!!

Youtube can be your best friend.

Thanks! I was going to use YouTube once I started on the job

I would try band adjustment and replace governor pressure sensor and transducer

Is there another name for the transducer or a more specific name? BC Google had it labeled as governor pressure sensor and transducer are same thing....

Ok..

 

measure the output voltage AC at the alternator BATT terminal on the alternator and the battery NEG. If the AC voltage is below 0.1 Volts AC then your fine.

 

Alternator battery terminal ? Lost me.

Alternator battery terminal ? Lost me.

He means the stud coming out of the alternator that hooks to the battery.

:thumb1:  .... figured but wasn't quite sure 

 

picked up a good multimeter from harborfreight so will have to check it out ........ suprised at quality 

 

Recommend to anyone looking.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html

 

 

Suprising how much cleaning the terminals helped ....... with a wire brush cleaner ..... 

Is there another name for the transducer or a more specific name? BC Google had it labeled as governor pressure sensor and transducer are same thing....

That's a model year thing. '99 up has a black plastic sensor called a transducer, where as the earlier models have a metal canister style sensor called a sensor; they perform the same function but are not interchangeable.

Youtube can be your best friend.

..As well as an inch pound torque wrench.. $75-100 but invaluable when it comes to trans work.

This weekend I adjusted front band adjustment only BC I am awaiting the arrival of my deep trans pan before I do the rear band adjustment.... If I had to just about thread the hex bolt just about all the way in and by the time I backed out 2 full turns there was basically just enough thread left to put the lock nut back on does that mean that band is just about gone? FML I plan to do rear band and pan and fluid change this coming weekend. Is it worth it to waste a gallon+ of amsoil tranny fluid if a rebuild is near in my future? Or should I save the cash and do it all at once?

The last two pickups i have done, the bolts are flush with the nut. They are shifting perfect, dont sweat it. Im thinking this will last until the next trans service. Then it will be rebuild time

  • 4 weeks later...

Yes they finally got with me but I already ordered just the Borg warner governor solenoid. That part actually replaces the governor as a whole and in turn you get better flow and better reliability. If something happens in the future I will definitely switch to that part.

Yes they finally got with me but I already ordered just the Borg warner governor solenoid. That part actually replaces the governor as a whole and in turn you get better flow and better reliability. If something happens in the future I will definitely switch to that part.

Thanks! I'm going to order it then since I'm due for a tranny service.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm a fan of simplicity myself and I was having this same problem. Or so it would seem. After some research, digging with a scan tool, I found out there was procedure to calibrate the throttle sensor. Unhook the batteries for 30 minutes, re hook them, turn the ignition on but don't start, slowly depress the throttle all the way to the floor then slowly release all the way up. Then turn ignition off. Sure enough this fixed problem no more rpm jumping at any speed. Just food for thought

  • 2 weeks later...

New member here. I had the lock/unlock issue. I rerouted the main ground wire away from the alternator. That worked for about 1000 miles, then on a rainy day the problem came back. While searching the net for other solutions I reccognized mopar1973man's logo from a post I read on another forum.  His post at the beginning of this thread made a lot of sense to me, as I had thought for some time that alternator noise was the cause of the problem. So, I tried the test removing the 140 amp fuse, and the truck shifted normally. I bought a rebuilt alternator and had it installed. I have just completed a 3000+ trip towing a fifth wheel and there has been no issue.

I sure there are several other causes for this problem, but the alternator was the cause for mine. I just wanted to thank mike nelson for this forum and this thread in particular.

I finally got around to doing my tranny service this past weekend. I replaced the governor pressure solenoid and transducer and of course filter and replaced with amsoil tranny fluid. I also installed a derale deep trans pan. I adjusted rear band while i was in there to. Truck definitely seems to shift better but also seems like it takes longer to shift into 4th. For instance it usually wont shift into 4th until i get above 2k rpms and stay at that for a period of time. Is that normal? I dont really know have only been an owner for about 4 months now and it is not my dd (have a company f150 :doh: ).

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.