Put on new tires and noticed a pronounced pull to the left. Checked the tie rod ends and found both sides with some play in each side. Is there supposed to be any play in them? Am approaching 100k miles so I guess I need to get new tie rod ends??? Just came off a 1200 mile trip and am not sure if I noticed the pull to the left with the old tires or not, if so, it was not as pronounced. I had the new tires on the left side switched to rule out a faulty tire. It still had the strong left pull.

I would suggest you take it into to a alignment shop and have them double check everything.

I would suggest you take it into to a alignment shop and have them double check everything.

Thanks Mike. I have a guy that will put them on and I will take it to an alignment after that and have them to check it out. Again, is there supposed to be any play? You can put your hand around each shaft and by twisting your wrist up and down there is 1/8th to 1/4 play in them. Being a non motor head, I don't know.

To test the front end components, you need to take the weight off the tires. The old school mechanics would lift one wheel at a time & go under each wth a pry bar while watching what moved. The tie rod ends can & must rotate & swing as they must move through out the travel of each wheel in turns and over bumps. It's not just tre's but also ball joints, steering box & pitman arms. Before you buy anything, I suggest you have the front end instected by someone who knows how... or you might replace good parts & still have out of spec parts remaining.

You can do a toe alignment yourself. I dont trust most alignment shops, unless you know a good oneI made a toe alignment set like thisI have my 99 with one piece heavy duty tie rod set at "0"

You can do a toe alignment yourself. I dont trust most alignment shops, unless you know a good one I made a toe alignment set like this [ATTACH=CONFIG]4491[/ATTACH] I have my 99 with one piece heavy duty tie rod set at "0"

Could you explain how this is done? Not to hijack the OP thread but I think it would be good know for all reading.

I'm impressed with GSP7's clever fixture set. I'm assuming a plate for each side. Enlarge the picture, you'll see both tape measures. The difference in measurements is your toe in.

Could you explain how this is done? Not to hijack the OP thread but I think it would be good know for all reading.

We call them Racers Toe Plates Just like flagmanruss said. Its pretty simple. Just two rigid straight edges against each tire. I used two pieces of 3"x2" aluminum angle iron('L' metal) 'bout 3 1/2 ft long (2"x2" angle iron will work), I set them on a 4x6" blocks of wood so they are up on the side of the tire. Trick is to have the straight edge firm against the tire, I lean the block of wood (just like the bottom of the plates are angled in the pic) so it lightly presses the straight edge against the tire so it stays put while your messing around with your tape measuer. Or rig up a bungy cord to the inside of the rim (not realy necessary) Nice crisp straight edges on the edges of the metal for accurate readings on the tape measure Or you can buy some of those toe plates. I think Summit Racing and Jegs has them. Might need longer ones for bigger tires, thats why I made my own http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/LAR_79500_Longacre_Toe_Plates/Longacre_Toe_In Little tutorial http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0601cl_heidts_alignment_plates/ .

Bigger picture of the truck please !!!

Mohok,To test the tie rod ends, I wrap my hand completely around the rod end without gloves. I make sure that I am touching both the tie rod AND the steering knuckle. I then have someone slightly move the steering left and right. I am trying to feel for ANY relative movement. The steering knuckle and tie rod should move together. The tie rod can rotate just a bit, but you should never feel the tie rod move and the knuckle stay still. Close your eyes if you need to. You can do it with tires up or down. I like to do my preliminary check on the ground first then start lifting the truck up. The tolerance limit is zero. Zero relative movement. (yes you can drive it if it wiggles, but know you are on borrowed time. Mainly you are killing tires and adding to the loose driving feel.)I do the same procedure with ball joints. Put my hand on both axle and knuckle, and have someone pry the wheel up and down. Wheel bearings are between rotor and knuckle. etc. Pitman too.Track bar is harder. Hand on bar and axle (or frame) have friends jump up and down on bumper, flexing the front suspension. WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!!If you are worried about this, go to a mom and pop alignment shop that will let you get under with the technician. Tell him what you want to learn, and he should show you. Once you get a feeling for what the relative movements should be, they are much easier to spot.HTH Hag

First, thanks to all the responders. Good info. I have rotated three of the new tires to the left front position to rule out having a faulty tire. All three tires have the same left pull. The tires were all made in the same run on 1112, i.e., last week of March this year. The tires are 235 85 16's Cooper Discovery tires made in the USA, so hopefully the tires are not the problem.