I was told by my mechanic that put my tie rod ends on that I need to replace the right side upper control. Found that a replacement control arm is around $345.00 (ouch). He is going to try to replace the bushings and see if might solve the problem. Anyone care to share any information or personal experience in this area? I think he said that he had the front end up and had someone mash the brakes and he could see movement in the control arm. Also, when you are driving and apply the brakes you can hear a noise and feel a bit of a jerk in the front end.

get replacement urathane bushings is what id search for. Id guess they make them for our stock controll arms

Yes, get poly bushings, they can be had for less than $100. I put junk rubber bushings back in mine and now need to do it again.:banghead:

2 wheel drive or 4? there is a big difference in the bushings and cost and availability of control arms etc.2 wheel drive, at 300+ bucks replace the bushings and ball joints. that is some jack. (on some cars, gm S10/S15 comes to mind, but many others. assembled control arm was like 69.95 with free shipping.... lol buy a cross shaft kit and ball joint and install it for that.) you can buy the whole upper or lower control arm as cheap or cheaper than buying a new ball joint and bushings to rebuild it. (especially when you factor in the time to grind out the old rivets and make drivers to press the bushings out etc.) The 4x4 is different. Depending on year, it can be hard to find the replacement control arms. (replacing the bushings is a total pain, but doable) you can find the arms for the small diameter bolts, but not the larger diameter bolts. finding the correct bushing is a pain too (I think it is one of those 01.5 things and is actually never shown but in the 02 parts catalog) I feel lightnin's pain, on a 4x4 I might put poly on the axle, but frame side is getting rubber. I like a softer ride and absolutely cannot stand squeeks!!!!!!!!!!!! The impala is driving me nuts, and they are greaseable. (4x4 control arm bushing is significantly easier replacement than 2x)Hag

Thanks. 2 wheel drive. My mech has ordered a rubber bushing kit and we will go from there.

My OE rubber 4wd U/LCA joints are rotted...

I'm contemplating these @ $47ea:

but like Hag, I prefer a smoother ride and these will undoubtedly transfer much road noise into the cab..

Rogan,WOW!!! that is a nice setup!!!! 47 seems like a steal. That must be an oft used size!!!Mohok,I think you will be fine. A cross shaft rebuild is what is needed, and I am sure you will be happy with the rubber. It should last another 10 years or so.Hag

Hag,

I used to run these exclusively in all my rockcrawler jeeps. They do transmit vibrations and road noise to the body, but they're rebuildable and easily maintained.

The axle-end, I left the rubber style or urethane ones, for a couple reasons when using 3-link setups (like below)..

1. Helps aid in axle isolation.

2. The axle end doesn't need to flex yaw or roll, only pitch.

On 4-link setups (where maximum articulation is key), I'd use the joints in both ends. This helps keep down the binding.

Below is my 3-link setup. Notice the axle-end (lower LCA mount) is urethane, and the frame-end is the joint..

AWESOME!!!!(hook the sway bar back up!! )I love what rock crawlers do!!! That is so cool. Axle articulation at its best!!!I didn't even think of the lateral abilities of those joints!!! Too Sweet!!! (I must not turn my daily driver, pull rig into a rock crawler!! I must not turn my daily driver, pull rig into a rock crawler!!I will go do my punishment in the dunce room.Hag