When I park on level ground or nose uphill its been turning over about 2 seconds or so no matter how long it sets. If I park nose downhill it starts imediatly like it always has. What is the best way to find my culprit? I dont see any wet spots anywhere but my fuel line is about 5 years old and looksdry rotted in some places but its not wet either. The teflon tape on the bottom threads of my needle valve was a little discolored so I replaced it with new and it fired up imediatly but its nose down hill too.

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It also runs just as smooth as always, no miss at idle or anything.

I had the same problem and it was the return line and the return tee leaking . They were wet however and easy to spot. You just might have a small leak letting air in and not fuel out.

I think I got it fixed with new teflon tape and a new farrel on the fuel line at the valve. Its parked nose up so I will see if its good tomorrow.

:hyper:OH HAPPY DAY:hyper:

Air leaks are a tough one to spot most times out of ten. I tend to stay away from teflon tapes and thread sealants though.

Well it fired right up after setting all day and night nose uphill but it doesnt idle as smooth as it should. Went to the a resteraunt and came back out to a hot motor parked nose up and it took longer than usual to fire. Went to the pull and parked on level ground and with a cold motor 6 hrs later it fired right up. Could it be something to do with heat and this new ecm? I may put the old ecm back on for a few hrs and see if it changes.Mike, what do you use instead of teflon tape?

I had these symptoms and I found that I did not tighten an injector enough when priming the system. I'm chicken about stripping threads. On the cummins not the forum

Would it be possible to put a needle valve in the line just before the injector pump with some king of bleed valve so when I changed fuel filters or fuel line from the fass that I woulndt have to bleed the system but instead just close that valve off and then bleed the air out before it ever reached the vp?

Mike, what do you use instead of teflon tape?

Nothing at all. Soft brass is self sealing if tighten properly. As for the rest of the fuel system JIC / Pushloc's are self sealing too.

Would it be possible to put a needle valve in the line just before the injector pump with some king of bleed valve so when I changed fuel filters or fuel line from the fass that I woulndt have to bleed the system but instead just close that valve off and then bleed the air out before it ever reached the vp?

What about putting a valve just upstream of your filter? That way the line doesnt drain back and empty out when you open up the filter. Even if you put one before the vp i would think you still get air in the pump when filling the lines back up with fuel, unless you had a tee or something along with a valve just before the vp to crack open and bleed the air out before opening the valve to the vp. Antisieze has very good lubricating properties i generally use it on most all fittings before assembly even if theres no concerns for corrosion it helps to keep things from galling up and makes everything much easier to come apart.

Thats what I want, maybe a few inches before the vp, some kind of valve that I can close to keep pressure in the pump and injectors. Some way to bleed the filter and all just before the valve. Change filter, bump starter and while the LP is running some kind of valve to bleed the air out and then open the needle valve just before the pump and boom, fires right up with no loosening injectors and having them leak for a few days. What do yall think?

I would think that would work out pretty good. Are you having problems getting air out of. Your system when changing filters? Or just trying to simplify things?

Mainly just trying to make things easier when changing filters and all. I need to change the 3/8 hose from my fass to the pump and really dread it because of bleeding it and then leaking fule from the lines for a couple days. Im really anal about this truck and cant stand it when everything is not perfect. When you change the filter on a 12v you dont have to bleed the lines, and a common rail bleeds itself.

Just got off of the phone with Eric and Vulcan and we think he got me set up. He is sending me a 1/2 ball valve and some pushlock fittings so I can get this thing done. If it works, it will make changing the fuel filter so much easier and no more leaking fuel lines at the head after a filter change.

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Well I had a hunch and I was right. I put the old ecm back on and it fired right up and idled smooth as silk like it used to. I found a local guy on CL that has a 98.5 5 speed to part out and im gonna see if he will swap me ecm's and some $$.

Yesterday I hooked up my old ecm and it cranked and idled smooth like it used to. Today I got another ecm from a 98.5 5 speed truck, it cranks long and the idle is jumpy, what could this be?

I would consider havig the ECM reflashed so you can verify that the proper software is installed for your truck configuration.

I was thinking the same thing but John said I could borrow his smarty so I didnt know if it would update the truck or not. I was also thinking about the vin not matching and I dont want it to be changed back to an automatic trans ecm.

Got my pieces from Eric @ Vulcan, workin on getting a newer style filter housing with the twist off cap and then I will run new line from the fass to the filter but here is what I have so far.

I just replaced all my fuel line. Closed the valve off and blead the air out. When i was done, bumped the starter to prime the pump and it fired right up. Didn't touch the injector line and no fuel leaking for days now!

Hmmm... Did you ever consider upgrading to the later style fuel filter can?

Thats in the works as I type. A buddy with a 2002 just got an airdog 165 and said I could have his old canister.