If I loosen the #4 and 5 injector nuts only, do I need to bleed the whole system again or can I just bleed those two lines by bumping the starter til they leak? Or do I not even need to bleed them for just removing the nut?

You can bleed just the two, but why, what's going on?

Usually you won't have to bleed it at all if you just open 2 lines for a short amount of time.

I have a small leak at each and it drips it's way down to the trans and on the ground. I checked the return T fitting and the banjo bolt in the back and they are not leaking, so it's just the two injector lines. My idea is to see if I can temporarily stop the leaks with "rescue tape" (similar to teflon, but holds up to fuel and high temps) and just plug up the two nuts for now until I do a complete injector swap down the road. I just don't have the extra cash to dish out for injectors and it's getting a little cold to be working on the truck outside. I am just hoping to stop the leak so I can clean the mess it has been making over time in my street and not worry about it re-accumulating.

Tighten them wont stop it, there is another problem then.

Yeah I'm thinking it's either the o-rings or maybe I didn't seat it properly after doing the new VP a few months ago. So are you saying the fuel isn't actually leaking from the threads on the nuts? I honestly can't tell EXACTLY where it's coming from when I watch it. It must just be a very slow oozing that builds up then channels its way behind the motor and drips off. But I can tell for sure it's the #4 and 5 lines. I was just thinking the tape might seal the threads and at least stop it from making a mess, not necessarily solve the issue itself.

I think it's the O rings not the threads. I doubt you are cross threaded bad enough to make it leak at the threads. I think they are a tappered thread and are able to seal on their own without the tape. Just need to be torqued the right amount. You could try loosening the injector nut all the way and retighten to specs.

Mine does this too anytime I open the lines for one reason or another. Spray the area down really good with brake cleaner and loosen/ tighten them back up but just not as tight. I know it sounds crazy but they seem to have a sweet spot and tight as possible Is not always it. I just got #1 to stop leaking yesterday after messing with it a few weeks ago. Run it down the road and check it, if its wet again, loosen/ tighten again and dry it with brake cleaner and take another ride in it.

Thanks for the tips guys, I will try this tomorrow. I suppose it is a little odd that the o-rings would just suddenly leak after I got done the VP swap since I didn't pull the injectors or anything. I do have one more quesion though, how do I tighten to spec when I can't put a torque wrench on it? I only have a standard torque wrench, is there some other method or type of wrench with an open end that will work around the injector line?

Your lines come from the factory with a coating of somesort that the feral. Sometimes when you break the conection it's a good idea to emery cloth and clean the feral to make a good seal.As far as the crossover tubes, as long as you didnt remove them they should still be seated the same as before. If you pull crossover tubes to replace the o rings you will disturb the seat between the injector seat and the crossover tube which could cause a leak. Best thing to do in that case is just replace the tubes.

If you want to get real technical about torqing things that you cant get a socket on, you can pick up a set of crows feet for fairly cheap. Basically an open end wrench with either a 3/8 or 1/2 inch square in the end to put your torque wrench into. They can be tricky to use though because they are only accurate if you use them with the open end of the crows foot 90* to the torque wrench. As you change the angle with which you are tightening your torque will begin to vary because you are changing the leverage of the torque wrench. Most sets have a cheat sheet so you can make the necessary adjustments to your torque wrench to achieve desired torque. The other thing you could do is tighten a random nut to your desired torque and then use your wrench on that same nut to get a feel of how tight you need to be going. Its not an exact science by any means but at least you will have a feel for what you are after.Another thing you could try is take some antisieze and very lightly coat the threads before you assemble. Be careful not to get anything on the sealing surface. Antisieze is an excellant lubricant and helps to achieve proper torque of threads without galling them. Actually it is required to achieve proper torque of ANY bolt just for the lubrication purpose. Putting something together dry will cause friction and cause a false torque reading. Hard materials like stainless are much more prone to galling without proper lubrication.

I'm glad I posted before I made a move, that's why I love this forum lol. I did not remove anything when I did the pumps, just pulled the injector lines like you're supposed to and re-assembled. I did tighten them the other day to see if they came loose but they are nice and tight right now. So tomorrow I will clean the area with brake cleaner, pull the two nuts, and lightly sand the feral then re-tighten. I don't have any emery cloth, will a fine grit sandpaper work? I have just about everything from 120 to 2000 grit. I may even just add the tape to the threads just as a small precaution and extra seal. Like I said, new injectors are next on the wishlist so I will completely replace all this stuff when I get the RV275's I want.

I had one of mine leaking ever so little so I just took the open end wrench and just bumped it tighter with the palm of my hand. I just bumped it a little tighter.

Be very careful with the sandpaper, you dont want any sand in the injectors.

Be very careful with the sandpaper, you dont want any sand in the injectors.

I wouldn't go any more course than 00 fine steel wool. And even then put something over the hole to stop dust.

my connections started weeping just by taking the lines off a couple times for maintenance on things. i used the green scotch pads (no metal) on the crossover tubes and the line ends and put new orings on the crossover tubes (dry) and weeping went away. the threads dont seal the holes, they create pressure on the seating faces of the connections. the orings are what does the sealing of the return fuel out of the injector and if there is weeping, its one of 3 things, bad oring or not properly torqued or damaged seating faces on the injector line or crossover tube.

my connections started weeping just by taking the lines off a couple times for maintenance on things. i used the green scotch pads (no metal) on the crossover tubes and the line ends and put new orings on the crossover tubes (dry) and weeping went away. the threads dont seal the holes, they create pressure on the seating faces of the connections. the orings are what does the sealing of the return fuel out of the injector and if there is weeping, its one of 3 things, bad oring or not properly torqued or damaged seating faces on the injector line or crossover tube.

Hopefully I just need to properly the torque the line then. If I need to go any deeper than that, I would rather just do the whole injector/o-ring job all at once. Wasn't planning on spending the money for injectors yet though.

Just tourque them, spray a little brake cleaner check for leak. As long as it's not running down the intake and making a drip drip drip I would run it till you get new injectors and get new crossover tubes while your at it.

Swapping te orings is not that difficult. If it is going to be a while before you get to change the injectors, then swap the o rings, it is not hard to do.

Swapping te orings is not that difficult. If it is going to be a while before you get to change the injectors, then swap the o rings, it is not hard to do.

not hard at all, bout 45 minutes takin yer time.

I just got out there tonight after work. I pulled the #4 and 5 nuts, reset them and I am now just getting slow weep from the #5 injector. It's getting dark out in the street so I stopped and left it at that for now. You guys think I should replace the o-ring at #5? What exactly does that require? Like i said it was getting dark and I only had a flashlight between my neck and shoulder as I was working so I couldn't really see too much detail.