I put ow40 synthetic oil in for winter and now when I first start it up the oil pressure gauge doesn't move for at least 5 seconds, truck fires rite up instantly but I don't like the oil pressure issue. I haven't owed this truck long but it always had instant oil pressure

I think with the O-w it will drain back more. The oil galleries wont have as much in them as the thicker oil, and it takes a few seconds to fill everything up. I'd think there would be enough 'film' to carry you through until pressure builds.This is one reason I defeat the clutch safety circuit. Imagine pushing on the end of a crankshaft with almost 3000# force... course, if you have automatic trans.... that doesn't apply. thrust bearings don't hold much spare in the first place. I have seen the difference it makes! (yah, it takes years to show up)I had a bad habit of jumping in the cab, pushing the clutch down.... waiting for the heaters to heat...THEN cranking. I pretty much had all the oil squeezed out of the thrust bearing by then.

That's a good point about pushing the clutch in too soon, I never cold start it either it's always plugged in when I need it, this oils only got less than 500 miles and it looks like it just came out of the bottle, my 04 turned black as coal after 5 mins of idleing

What oil filter are you using? You might find that some brands of oil filter have a drain back valve in the filter.

I sure i put a Hastings on it, i just bought the truck and the filter came with it I think I will buy a new filter and see if that helps cause I don't like those 5 or more seconds before the gauge moves.

I run a wix filter on mine, it takes a few seconds for me to get oil pressure to. How long does it take for everybody else to get oil pressure.

Fleetguard filter here ans 1-2 seconds tops.

I run a mopar filter and i see pressure 1 or 2 seconds also

  tsmithnw said:

I run a mopar filter and i see pressure 1 or 2 seconds also

Just a repainted Fleetguard...

  rancherman said:

I think with the O-w it will drain back more. The oil galleries wont have as much in them as the thicker oil, and it takes a few seconds to fill everything up. I'd think there would be enough 'film' to carry you through until pressure builds. This is one reason I defeat the clutch safety circuit. Imagine pushing on the end of a crankshaft with almost 3000# force... course, if you have automatic trans.... that doesn't apply. thrust bearings don't hold much spare in the first place. I have seen the difference it makes! (yah, it takes years to show up) I had a bad habit of jumping in the cab, pushing the clutch down.... waiting for the heaters to heat...THEN cranking. I pretty much had all the oil squeezed out of the thrust bearing by then.

I think thats a good point, I always thought about it but never did anything. How do you deleat the clutch saftey switch?

Mine takes a few seconds to build too, always has. You should be able to ground a wire on the nss so it sees the pedal pushed in all the time.

  Mopar1973Man said:

Just a repainted Fleetguard...

Yeah I figured that I just get them at wallie world. No where better oil filte, beer, and something for dinner. One stop shop

I changed filter to a wix and it's still the same so I guess it's just the oil no biggie, thanks for the help

  rancherman said:

This is one reason I defeat the clutch safety circuit. Imagine pushing on the end of a crankshaft with almost 3000# force... course, if you have automatic trans.... that doesn't apply. thrust bearings don't hold much spare in the first place. I have seen the difference it makes! (yah, it takes years to show up) I had a bad habit of jumping in the cab, pushing the clutch down.... waiting for the heaters to heat...THEN cranking. I pretty much had all the oil squeezed out of the thrust bearing by then.

Your going to have to explain that one a little more. When you press on the clutch the pressure plate releases pressure, and that force is exerted on the throw-out bearing, to the fork, and then into the transmission case. When you press the clutch no additional force is exerted on the crankshaft, at least as far as I can tell. But if you do delete the clutch safety switch and start with the trans in N you now have a greater load on the crank before oil pressure builds and that could do more long term wear, REALLY long term. I watch engine load with my UG, and the load a cold trans puts on the motor is a lot more than one would think.

  Mopar1973Man said:

Fleetguard filter here ans 1-2 seconds tops.

Are you going off of the dash gauge?

  Mopar1973Man said:

Just a repainted Fleetguard...

Maybe, IIRC there are 3 suppliers of Mopar oil filters. Fleetguard is one, and I am not positive but I want to say Wix/Fram are the other 2. Purolaotor also comes to mind.

  Looner said:

I changed filter to a wix and it's still the same so I guess it's just the oil no biggie, thanks for the help

It's possible you are just watching it more now as you changed things up. The 0w will drain back a little easier the longer the motor sits, but it will also flow faster thru the motor on startup. I run a 15w-40 year round, and it takes about 2-3 seconds for oil pressure to build on a normal start, but a cold start after a few days sitting can take 5 seconds or so. I run a Donaldson ELF7349 which has high flowing synthetic media in it. I have an electrical fuel pressure gauge on the drivers side of the block, so my reading is slower than someone watching pressure from the oil filter housing. The other thing is some years, starting in '00 with a flash, ignore the pressure from the oil psi sender. The gauge on the dash is 100% fake and an algorithm. The 3rd gen and newer trucks don't even have an oil psi sender, just a switch. My dash gauge goes to 40 psi as soon as I release the key, regardless of actual pressure. The ECM has to see no pressure for 30 seconds before it will tell the driver there isn't any pressure. This is why I asked Michael about how he watches oil pressure, if it's off his dash his 1-2 seconds may be fake.

  AH64ID said:

Your going to have to explain that one a little more. When you press on the clutch the pressure plate releases pressure, and that force is exerted on the throw-out bearing, to the fork, and then into the transmission case. When you press the clutch no additional force is exerted on the crankshaft, at least as far as I can tell. But if you do delete the clutch safety switch and start with the trans in N you now have a greater load on the crank before oil pressure builds and that could do more long term wear, REALLY long term.

This is easy to explain. If for example, we have a 3000# pressure plate.. The 'squeeze' that is applied to the clutch disk, is contained BETWEEN the flywheel and and pressure plate. It doesn't go any further. BUT.. in order to release the squeeze, a force equal to or greater than the springs in the pressure plate must be applied to the throwout bearing.. transmitted though the release fingers... which tries to push the crank forward. (for every action... there must be a equal reaction). The only thing that keeps the crank located transversally, is the thrust bearing. when the clutch is 'hooked up'.... there is no force pushing the crank foward.... or pushing on the thrust bearing. If the clutch is released, (foot ON pedal) there will be a force of equal amounts against the throwout bearing, AND thrust bearing.

Yeah, I was only 1/4 of the way thru my coffee when I posted that. I am still not sure it's any worse than the added load on the crank/motor of spinning a cold transmission. I still think the best thing is only push the clutch in when you are turning the key, as soon as you have oil pressure release the clutch.

  AH64ID said:

Yeah, I was only 1/4 of the way thru my coffee when I posted that. I am still not sure it's any worse than the added load on the crank/motor of spinning a cold transmission. I still think the best thing is only push the clutch in when you are turning the key, as soon as you have oil pressure release the clutch.

No doubt! 'a cold trans' is a pretty heavy load. Even with syn oil. I don't have the fancy scan load reader like you guys, but I sure can hear it/watch the tach drop when taking the foot off the pedal! (in Neutral) Heck, when the heaters are cycling, it'll pull the idle speed down almost 100 rpm too! (my '00 anyway) It's amazing what load a little alternator will put on an engine! All I was saying, is in all the engines I have OH'd in the past 35 years was, I have seen much more wear on the thrust bearing/surface on the crank in clutched applications... versus 'no load' automatics. I guess I have NOT seen a detrimental engine failure because of this, but I have seen a crank 'beyond' repair from time to time... (main and rod journals were fine, but thrust surface was 'beyond'). For most in here, this probably won't be an issue. (starting a cold engine with foot off pedal) To me, for an engine that has sat unused for a long time, starting in neutral with foot off pedal is least wear and tear. (on the most expensive part of the engine anyway) All in all, it's probably 'six of one, half dozen of another' scenario! At least we agree that cold starting is hard on any engine!