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I really just want to see if it is just me or if others have the same luck. 3 years ago i smoked an airdog 150. Bad seal between motor and pump burned it up. 8 months thirteen days on that one. Replaced with a raptor 100. 123 days later, bad seal, smoked motor. Replaced with a raptor 150, Big lines from DSV to VP. A year and change later. Dead. Opened it up and I'm telling you, no magnets left. Just a big pile of soot and carbon inside. Replaced with a warrantied 150. Eight months to the day, same thing. Dead. Only this time, brushes as well. I rigged up a stocker with some fittings and hooked it to the biglines of the Raptors, plugged it into the raptor harness and away we go. Holds 14 steady with an easy foot and thats what i'm going with. I am not a fan of those pumps and going to run this untill i can afford an assasin. Got to be the biggest pile of horsepucky ive ever seen. :moon::moon:

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You better turn that pressure down to around 18 or you are gonna start having starting problems

Not so sure i agree, unless you bump the starter on mine. it's at next to zero to start then it's up to 23 or so. while running. even if i do the pump cycle, and start it, still havent had problems. how would having to much PSI when off not let it start? doesn't make any logical sense to me. unless it's pushing past and flooding the engine, kinda doubt that. explain. Thanks.

I'm just going off my many years of replacing vp's and lift pumps, I have seen it many times where a truck will develop a hard start and come to find out some gasser mechanic put on a fuel pump that is putting out over 20 psi of pressure, put raptor on with 18psi and hard starts are gone. Yes you can have more than 20 and not have hard starts but it will eventually come. Some people say that anything over 25 causes seals to go out. Its up to you but I feel safe running 18 and that's what I have set all the raptors I have installed (12+) with no issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps

Just a side question here. Is it possible to pull the pump module from the tank without dropping the tank or pulling the bed? My wife is going to college and we live on campus, no room to do major repair work. I just want to pull out the module and see whats going on in there. My raptor 100 is still kicking, but ever since new I have had about a 6psi drop from idle to WOT. I replaced all the lines and fittings from the top of the tank to the VP with 3/8's stuff, no change.

No way to pull it without pulling tank or bed.

Just saw someone do it last week by cutting a hole in the bed of the truck. Not pretty but they did a very nice job making a square hole and re-attaching it back once they were finished. In the very same situation as the gent above with no place or way to work on the truck. Next time I do this may do the same thing myself. It was a bear to get the bed up high enough to get the tank sensor out. Not every person has the way or means to do this and pulling the tank is a real bear of a job. The engineer who designed this needs to be farmed out around the country doing only fuel tank sensor removals/repairs.

How would I be able to tell if my sending module is the one with a pump on it, or the early verison without the pump? Will it be pretty obvious with a plug or wire coming out of it for the pump? I just kind of want to know what to look for before I go digging into the problem. I am thinking I might have the later style with the OE lift pump in it. Trying to pull fuel through it and making my pressure drop maybe?

Where was your original pump when you installed the raptor?If dodge installed an in tank pump they would have pulled the oe pump off and put a block in its place to route the fuel into the filter canister.

Your 3/8" line might be the problem with the drop, I know its bigger than stock but it could be it. Also when was the filter changed? My 1/2" line setup with sump to stock housing and 1/2" big line kit, drops maybe 2lbs.

Well when I purchased the truck it has a FASS 95 on it. It had been relocated to the frame rail already so I have no clue as to what this truck had for a stock set up. The FASS died on me early this last spring and that's why I put the Raptor in. Just dropped the FASS out and put the Raptor in it's place. I change the fuel filter with every oil change so about every 5000 miles. Never had a change in pressure and I have gone through 3-4 fuel filters since I put the raptor in. I have tried WIX, Fleetgaurd, and Baldwin fuel filters and no change. I would like to do a draw straw but again I just don't have the means of doing the work where I live.

I never thought about doing that before. Looks simple enough to do in the parking lot :think:. Thanks for the tip!! I guess I never knew what went into the install.

  • Owner

Becareful of the sump idea. If you use your truck offroad you might yank that right off the bottom of your tank. Also you might check into local laws about bottom fed tanks.

Thanks for the tips. The most I ever off road are just the forest service roads and such. With the 35" tires I am not to worried about clearance. I will check and see about the area laws and see what they say.

This sump is only an inch tall. There is many things hanging lower that it. I know a couple of people that offroad with their sumps and havnt had any problems

  • Owner

Yeah there might be more thing that hang lower but you know good old Murphy Law would find the fresh sump with a big ol' limb and yank it off the bottom of your tank as you rolling into your hunting camp.Reason I mention this because Murphy's Law managed to push a good sized dent in the floor board of my truck in the back seat floor in my first year of ownership. All I did was turn around in a field and just happen to flip a good size limb between the floor and the frame and POP! New swell in the floor board and the limb broke off and stuck in the frame. :doh: