OK, my side cover is leaking about a quart a day. Have new gasket set. Also have a used VP44HO to put in(Thanks Ghostman). Have big line kit from stock filter with FP sender for my Quad & gear puller(Thanks Jkidd).Going to pull VP, all lines, filter canister & frrp. Then, I am going to pull the ECM & possibly space it out or at least plan it out for the future. Then, do the leaky side cover gasket.I will pull apart the FRRP & reseal it while i have it out. I also have a NAPA 1/2" 50 micron filter to put in before the FRRP.Here's my questions:1. I do not have the barring tool, so is there a redneck way for breaking the IP gear nut loose & torquing it without the barring tool?2. Cleaning the shaft is easy. Should I just use a rag with braklean on the inside of the gear?3.Should I BLUE locktite the IP gear nut if I cannot reliably get the needed torque?4. can I use my remote starter button on the starter with the key on (no assistant to crank over to bleed IP lines?I do have a new fuel filter, oil, oil filter, intake horn gasket (also tapping intake horn to 1/8NPT-27 since I have the bit & tap from my EGT install in 2 places & plugging them with brass plugs). I have new silicone adapter boots & reusing old clamps (replacing other side also if not needing heroine for my back when done).Anything anyone else can think of?I have read 3 different tutorials.Thank you,'Ed

what i did when i replaced my vp was put the truck in a high gear ebrake on and started turning the gear puller till drivetrain slack was taken up and once it had resistance i was able to pop it. i didnt even take the fan shroud off. and we have already verified that you cant skip a tooth on the gear but still try to be careful not to move it. you will need a second hand spotting for you to get the keyway lined up on install. (flashlight and mirror work)

As for rotating the pump around to get the keyway up you can just use the alternator nut. Ratchet handle will turn towards the coolant bottle. As for loosen/tighten the nut I've always just left it in gear and set the brake and never had a problem. I highly suggest you just torque the nut to proper torque and skip the loc-tite. As for bleeding the system is easy. Just loosen 1,3,4 and crank till either you see spray from the driver seat or you hear it bump a cylinder. Then tighten up then lines and start. I do all my work typically solo on my truck from bleed fuel system to bleeding brakes.

Ahhh, the times I wish I had a standard.... Well, I guess I'll try to borrow or rent the barring tool from one of the diesel shops in town. They are good guys & I offered a certain something with switches (to be produced soon) for them to try out free....

Ed

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Dumb question, can I use the alternator nut as a barring tool to loosen & tighten the VP gear nut?

Ed

Maybe... I've never exactly tried it.

OK, talked to Settler's Cove diesel repair in Kanab, UT. He told me that the barring tool is "A pain in the arse when working alone. Said to hold the alternator nut with a ratchet & use a breaker bar to loosen the VP gear nut. For torquing the nut, he told me to use a 15MM socket on the flywheel bolt on a breaker bar against the frame to tighten. I'm off to the races & will report back when done...

Ed

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And as the song goes, "One thing always leads to another:

1. My FRRP is leaking to the motor

2. The insulation plate that goes over the side plate is broken. Seeing if Pureflow will call back & if I can source another insilator plate locally

Ed

FRRP is the Factory Replacement Raptor Pump. New one on the way.Won't be here till Thursday at 6PM (when out UPS guy delivers). I'll ditch the insulation, as no one around has one in 1 piece. Yeah, I had to use a 2' pipe to break the IP gear nut loose & it didn't move a hair. Krazy glued the keyway in place. Going to clean off the side cover & side of the engine. Got to get a ride to pick up all of my new crush washers & needle valve/snubber.

Off to the freaking races on the merry-go-round pony...

Ed

Since your gonna be down for a few days, might try sourcing a 12v tappet cover so you can ditch the front crankcase breather.

I will be doing this in the near future. Has any one tried adding a breather to the 24v tappet cover? Is it is a casting or just a stamped metal cover?

Dripley, it is a stamped metal cover. It has the bump for the breather area, but the FP bracket is right in front of it. I thought about doing it, but didn't have the stuff. There is an inner sheet metal baffle. Didn't look too deep into it to see if I could get it done, but if you have a welder, knock out the baffle & use a liquid tight electrical fitting with conduit JB weld it in. Then reweld the baffle. But, honestly, I am not sure if the fuel return lines are in the way.... Investigate it when you are at it.Stuck the FRRP back together & figured what the hell, probably been like that a while & it runs. Only real screwup was forgetting to tighten the injection line nuts towards the engine as I was getting them all clamped in place. DAMN GLAD I HAVE A 3/4 Crowsfoot !!!!!!

Hopefully I will be in there in the next couple months and see whats in there. My AD is on the frame rail so maybe none of that is in the way.

Then remove the 4 bolts holding the FP bracket & drill a hole with a step bit. Clean out the shavings well. Use a pipe flange & screw & JB weld it on there (Or just weld a bung if you can). you'll be fine.Ed