I know this isn't exactly diesel related but on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the CAD axle tends to hang up once engaged. Then when you you try to disengage the 4WD the lever goes to 2WD just fine and the transfer case releases. But the CAD unit holds the axle for extended period like maybe another mile or so. POP! Violently releases you can feel it in the entire truck. I'm not liking the CAD units at all I rather have a solid axle personally way less to go wrong.

Cheap fixes are the best! Glad it was something simple.

One thing while we're on the subject of the CAD that I found out years ago with my 98 1500, a lot of times if it's doing one or the other (engaging/disengaging) but not both, is one of the vacuum lines will tend to break somewhere up the line-very inconvenient as you never seem to find out till you actually need it.  What I did with mine since I found out the line broke while I was out playing around, was take the connector on the back of the CAD and flip it around-as long as you have good vacuum in one line, you can use that same line to suck the diaphragm back into place-whether it's 4wd or 2wd. All you have to do is ensure the shift lever is in the proper place for the vacuum line-ie if your 4wd vacuum line is broken, to get back to 2wd, you leave it in 4wd and flip the vacuum connector, and vice versa for 2wd.  

 

It's never a bad thing to periodically inspect the CAD, as Mike found out, because like others have said, it tends to collect moisture and then cause the diaphragm to rust and freeze up in there (I know that wasn't Mike's issue, but it's a common issue). 

 

Sorry for the lack of posting, I've been pretty busy, as I'm now back in Indiana.  Had to pack up and move from NC back to IN in about a week, and start hunting for a new job-due to 3 surgeries on my ankle, and it not healing properly, the Marine Corps decided I was no longer fit for duty, and medically separated me.  Been pretty busy with everything lately!  Mike, please don't delete my profile if I'm not on for a few months...once everything settles down and I find a job, I'll be a regular on here again!  

Good point dennhop, Ive actually done that before in a pinch to get 4 whl drive, I was stuck in a snow drift when I realized I had a vaccum issue. It took a little digging to get under the truck, but a quick swap of the lines was all it took (and a little coaxing forward to reverse) and she went right in. After that I replaced all the lines from the t case to the actuator, hard lines included, to avoid any future problems.Good luck in the job search, I hope you are able to get back on your feet soon.

Well, just found a broken vacuum line going to the infamous CAD unit on the truck. Where is a good place to find replacement vacuum lines? Or should I just replace them with regular rubber lines? I would really like to keep the stock style lines if possible.

I used brake line for the steel section. Remove the old line and measure and bend the new line to match. If you buy that copper/nickel alloy stuff you can make sharp bends by hand it's so easy to work with. And lasts a lifetime, will not corrode like standard brake line will. That is all I use anytime I have to replace a brake line because I know I will never have to worry about it again.

The steel lines are ok, its the molded plastic tubing that got brittle and broke in a couple of spots. Does anyone but the dealer sell those molded plastic lines with the rubber ends?

Rubber hose is fine

I  had  quite  a  'bang'  upon  going into    2wd  last fall.   Sometimes  it  would  take   several miles  for the light go out,     then BANG.   I just  started  backing up a few feet  to  speed up the process.   2-3 foot  is  all it takes.

 

Nothing wrong  with  the  servo.  or  lines.

 

It  was  the  tires.     Soon as  I  replaced  all  6,  it  shifted  smooth  and  quickly...     quarter  inch difference  in  'wear'  makes  quite  a  difference in  ratios  front to rear...

 

. a  sticky/bad/leaking  servo won't make it go  'bang'...  only   extreme  torsional  differences...   

Well I went ahead and just replaced the molded plastic lines with regular rubber lines. Shifts in and out of 4WD instantly now. Thanks for the replies everyone!!

I might have to look into that.