Hi guys, 

Just picked up a  Flame Red, 102K 2002 Sport, Auto, 4x4, 3:55's, Qcab, 8' bed.  Truck is stock and I searched for this one to be like that on purpose.  I already have done some EXTENSIVE (a year plus) reading before getting one of these trucks, and I really purchased for the MPG and pulling power for my side camper/boat repair business.  It was hard to let go of the Super Duty for the sheer toughness alone but I couldn't take the 11mpg average.

 

Anyway, I already ordered a column gauge pod and an Isspro mechanical fuel pressure gauge, a fleetguard filter to swap out the scary K&N oil filter and a new fuel filter. (I pan on adding a Edge Juice W/ Attitude for the array of gauges when cash permits) The truck has had a new VP and stock block style LP as of May 2013. I want to keep this as stock as possible for reliability and ease of operation sake.  What is the opinion f this board: Should I get a stock style lift pump to have at the ready, or start saving for an Airdog 150 or FASS? What else should I do right away to save face?

 

Thanks 

AP

GDP or DTT mechanical lift pump!

 

BHAF instead of the fleetguard.

 

An edge JWA would warrant that you will need to upgrade the transmission, FIRST.

 

This is not staying stock as best as possible, btw.

 

GAUGES is the consensus, for the first items! Its a 60/40 on individual gauges vs a single like a JWA. AFTER, a lift pump! NO OEM LP is going to be adequate for the VP44! I suggest the mechanical LP instead of an AD or FASS. AFTER that, A BHAF is not a bad addition. Maybe add some RV275's for better performance and mileage!

 

If you add a chip to your truck, you are gonna need to make sure that transmission is upgraded to handle the power! I would ALSO check to see what you currently are seeing for fuel pressure from the OEM LP as I bet a dollar to a cracked bottle of pi$$, your VP44 is not seeing the proper pressures and causing unnecessary wear/damage!

 

ALSO, run yourself that 2-stroke oil in your fuel at a 1 ounce per gallon ratio!

 

PPPPPS! Welcome to the forum! Glad to have ya! Stick around, fill out your SIG!

Thanks for the reply.  I actually have a K&N OIL FILTER! I need to take it off right away obviously.  I actually only want the edge for the gauges.  Even at $800 its still cheaper than buying all of the other ones as I go, also, I'm not a huge fan of the gauges all over the cab and A-pillar. The auto trans shifts great, no problems, locks up and doesn't hunt at all. I read about the 2 cycle oil, and thought something like Howes Lubricator may be better for the anti-gel properties it adds.

AP

I actually only want the edge for the gauges.  Even at $800 its still cheaper than buying all of the other ones as I go

 

 

Just remember you gauge accuracy isn't as good and your relying on a electronic module to convert electrical signal to gauge readings. Mechanical gauges far better gauges and do rely on any electronics at all.

I believe Mike meant mechanical's do NOT rely on electronics. 

If all you are getting the edge for is the gauges, save it. Just get a set of real good mechanical gauges and you wont ever have to worry about it again. The electronic senders for the monitors like that edge go out a lot and you never know if its reading correctly, whereas with the mechanicals there is almost nothing to go wrong. Get that OE lift pump off there ASAP!! Its no good.

 

Welcome to the forum and hope to see ya around!!

Ok guys, got the new FP gauge installed with a snubber and fuel to antifreeze gauge isolator, looks like 17lbs of fuel at idle, need to take it for a test run still. This thing is a beast compared to my 5.4 gasser f250!

How many gauges do you want to run! $800 buys a lot, I didn't spend anywhere near that much and have 5 EV2's, which aren't cheap.

17 at idle? I thought you said it was a stock lift pump.

Well, just got back from a test run.  A little highway, back road and some red lights.  Looks like after it settled down, I'm getting 15-16 idle, 10 freeway, 5 if I mash it hard.  So far, it looks like I'll pocket the 500 for an Airdog/Fass and carry a spare whatever-brand-stock-style-pump this is.

 I'm expecting the paperwork from the dealer in a week or so, and he has the previous owners receipts for the pump replacements (VP and Lift) that were done on it in May 2013.  So the fact I'm getting OK pressure is most likely due to the fact that the pump is 7 months old.  I'm glad I did the FP gauge first, and Geno's parts were a good fit and quality if anyone is looking. 

AP

I bet the guys on here tell you that isn't enough pressure, I believe anything under 14 is bad for the VP.

Yeah I know, Guess I'll start saving lol

yup, not enuff pressure at wot.   You NEED TO INVEST in a good pump. You don't want to have to buy a new VP.

Ok guys, got the new FP gauge installed with a snubber and fuel to antifreeze gauge isolator, looks like 17lbs of fuel at idle, need to take it for a test run still. This thing is a beast compared to my 5.4 gasser f250!

 

Get rid of the isolator. Its double redundant if you have a snubber...

 

Yep, if your pressure goes below 14 at any point its not good. If it goes under 10, ever, its really bad. 10 or less will cause accelerated wear/damage to the vp44. Dont let your pressure go above 20 as well, though!

 

I think you should really look into the mechanical lift pump instead of an AD or FASS.

 

http://www.dttdiesel.com/product-p/dttfp.htm

 

or

 

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FB-98502

Yea... AH64ID is right. 14-20 PSI is optimal. 10-14 PSI is marginal. Then anything below 10 PSI is damaging. It's like saying the Cummins engine will function at 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle and 30 PSI at 2k RPM's. So how long do you expect the engine is going to last running at bare minimum oil pressures?

hex0rz, for me the isolator is not redundant.  I did not want any chance of diesel fuel spraying into the cab if there is a gauge or line failure. And from what I read the snubber is to reduce the hammering effect of the lift pump, a totally different purpose than the iso.    

Edited January 12, 201411 yr by AGPTurbo

hex0rz, for me the isolator is not redundant.  I did not want any chance of diesel fuel spraying into the cab if there is a gauge or line failure. And from what I read the snubber is to reduce the hammering effect of the lift pump, a totally different purpose than the iso.    

 

That's a old school scare...

 

When you buy a oil pressure gauge it comes with the very same nylon tubing kit and your hooking up 0-80 PSI oil pressure line from the engine. There is never been threads or even a discussion on any of the diesel site of a direct plumbed oil pressure gauge blowing out in the cab.

 

But now post about fuel leak in the cab its a major problem. "Oh my gawd the sky is falling"... But what about that direct plumbed oil pressure gauge its still direct plumbed to the engine?

 

Now with mine its direct plumbed as well with the needle valve and barely cracked open if the line was to crack or open it would barely drip because of the needle being closed as far as it is. Also if there was a failure just close the valve problem contained. As for spraying out fuel you'd have huge issues with 80 PSI of unrestricted oil pressure!

 

As for protecting your install just use 1/8" air brake line is burst rating is some where around 600-800 PSI and this is most commonly used on big rig truck for oil pressure gauges too.

 

(Food for thought)

That's why I run electrical for both :-)

I also get to program warning lights and needle sensitivity. It's nice to have a rock steady fuel psi needle, even thou the pressure is always moving a half psi or so. Between the snubber and programming of the gauge it doesn't move, and for oil I am able to slow it down a little for between shift changes. I like reading boost in the manifold, but valve actuation makes a mechanical and electrical gauge bounce, but with my EV2 programming it's steady. The same thing with drive pressure, valve/cylinders were visible in the form of a bounce on a mechanical gauge that are tune out now.

If the dealer installed the VP/lift pump, I would bet money you have an in tank lift pump. The block mounted pump was replaced by the in tank unit, and the only way the dealership would warranty the VP is by installing an in tank pump. I'm not even sure if the block mounted pumps are available through the dealership anymore.

I would prefer an AD or fass purely for the added filtration they offer

Edited January 13, 201411 yr by diesel4life

I would prefer an AD or fass purely for the added filtration they offer

 

But, even with a mechanical, you can still get a filter block and be twice as better as an AD.

 

AGPTurbo, if you wanna kick the idea around, I'd be more than willing to sell you my AD so I can buy a mechanical!

I dont believe the mechanical pumps recomend pulling fuel through filter elements.

Not only that, but your looking at tacking on an additional few hundred dollars to a system that already costs $600+, I just don't see the value in it.

The upper end ADs and FASS pumps are quite reliable and come with a lifetime warranty.

AD hasn't been reliable for several years now, maybe they are on the way up but???

 

FASS makes a good system, and has optional heaters. If I were to go electrical it would be FASS, my option to go mechanical is gone since I run a Fluidampr.

 

Mechanical is great, and if you put the proper size filter in the supply line you will not effect the operation of the mechanical pump (i.e. if the pump moves 160 GPH pre regulator you want to run 2 100 GPH filters in parallel).

 

The nice thing about mechanical is you can pick your own filters based on rating and flow. There aren't any filters with the proper flow rate for the 150 GPH systems, so if your using all that fuel your not filtering very well.