hey guys, i have an airdog 2 150 gph pump on my truck.

 

yesterday when driving my fuel pressure all of a sudden hit 0 and i continued to drive home because it wasnt acting funny. when i shut it off and turned key back to run position, the pump wont kick on. ive tried everything i can think of. i traced the ground and hot wires as good as i could without a test light. i made sure they had good clean connection. (dropped my test light on the walk from the building to the truck and broke it of course)

 

i couldnt test the relays, and dont even know where to begin and what to begin looking at because i did not hook this pump up. i dont know which relays or fuses or whatever the pump connects through, anything like that.

 

i am showing error codes P PCU, P0500, P0462, and P1693. all unrelated id assume.

 

can someone please explain to me how to figure out if that pump is burnt out or not. if it is i need it replaced like 3 hours ago. college is starting back, i cant get to work, im at a loss for ideas. anyone that can take the time to help me, i can pay you some money for the time

 

thanks guys, 

 

Logan

Not yet... I need to do research, testing & then manufacturing.... It will be the best fuel system you will ever see feeding a VP44. And, like the high idle switch I produced, all parts made in the USA, no junk & quality will be my priority. Do you really think that your AD 165 truly can flow 165 GPH? MAYBE if you remove the filter & let it drain right out. The filter is not at all capable of that flow at the pressures we need. I will not sell on hype. I will sell on quality flow/pressure/filtration & water separation.

 

Ed

Edited January 15, 201411 yr by Yankneck696

the 6 years its had about 60000 miles put on it. not too much, but a lot of hours probably. i idle a little more than i should

 

speaking of that, and seeing you in here, Yankneck696, where can i obtain your high idle switch, and whats the price? i could definitely use one!

www.dieselautopower.com under Dodge 98.5-02 Electronics. There is a plate that replaces the cubby hole, a gauge pod & a 2.125" round plate to mount where you like They are $150 shipped, I believe. Soon there will be a longet harness that will allow mounting in the upper console.

 

Ed

the 6 years its had about 60000 miles put on it. not too much, but a lot of hours probably. i idle a little more than i should

 

speaking of that, and seeing you in here, Yankneck696, where can i obtain your high idle switch, and whats the price? i could definitely use one!

 

Here you go.

http://www.dieselautopower.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=high+idle

thanks guys!

 

are they fairly easy to hook up? and does it come with instructions? lord knows i need them..

The pump(s) I was referring to have been out on the market for some time. One of the bigger names that comes to mind is the Fuel Labs. They are actually pretty big in the drag racing market and tried their hand in the diesel market. Brushless motors, internal varaible flow rate, all high end parts built for longevity. But they just havent really taken off except that upper end of the performance market with the big horsepower. There just isn't that many people willing to plop down enough cash to buy another injection pump, but spend it on a lift pump.

Not yet... I need to do research, testing & then manufacturing.... It will be the best fuel system you will ever see feeding a VP44. And, like the high idle switch I produced, all parts made in the USA, no junk & quality will be my priority. Do you really think that your AD 165 truly can flow 165 GPH? MAYBE if you remove the filter & let it drain right out. The filter is not at all capable of that flow at the pressures we need. I will not sell on hype. I will sell on quality flow/pressure/filtration & water separation.

 

Ed

 

 

This warrants a new thread for discussion!

sorry to raise a thread from the dead, but im having the same problem with blown fuse. i just removed the Gerotor and it was clean. the fuse pops after it starts. keeps popping over and over. problem started after i changed both the fuel filter and water separator. called josh @ pureflow tech support, but @ 4pm est we disconnected and the return calls goto voice mail. any help is welcome. im outside right now, but have my cell on me

Edited January 15, 201411 yr by guesswho512

From what I have read it sounds like the pump is gone. You could remove the motor and see if it is full of diesel. Heard of a lot of seal failures. How old is the pump? Did Josh hang up on you at 4pm or did yall disconnect voluntarily? I keep hearing about both good and bad customer service from them and they do have some bad pumps out there. I have had mine for near 3 years with no issues, so I have not had to deal with them on any issues.

i have had my airdog150 for approx. 4 yrs. i have followed all the steps listed here; http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#pump-quit and on the step where u use a jumper wire in the relay base, the pump runs very well for ~20 mins with no problems or popped fuses. on the step where u use a 5 blade relay, it pops in about 20 sec of starting the truck. all other steps come back normal, so im at a loss.

Edited January 15, 201411 yr by guesswho512

That got to be a sign of something. You used another relay from the PDC for the test? 

Sounds like your pump is old enough to avoid the problems the newer ones are having,

Edited January 15, 201411 yr by dripley

That got to be a sign of something. You used another relay from the PDC for the test? 

Sounds like your pump is old enough to avoid the problems the newer ones are having,

yes, with the 5 blade the fuse pops in approx 60 sec before blowing(that is after i "cleaned" the Gerotor). with the jumper wire, the pump runs until i shut it off. i had my left head friend who usually sees what i miss run thru the same tests. he suggested removing the relay in the airdog's harness and wiring a toggle switch into the relay base, since it seems to run indefinitely without blowing a fuse with a jumper wire. i am anxiously josh's(from pureflow) return call.

It sounds like there might be a short in the AD wiring. If you can make the pump run fine with a jumper wire, but not the actual harness...

It sounds like there might be a short in the AD wiring. If you can make the pump run fine with a jumper wire, but not the actual harness...

no, i'm using the airdogs harness, but removed the airdogs relay and jumpered the the yellow and red wires per the instructions. the pump runs and runs without blowing the fuse. when i use the airdogs relay or a 5blade in the PDC, it blows the fuse in under a minute(usually in seconds). so it leads me to believe it has something to do with trigger wires, but they seem fine....i'm stuck so i open to any suggestions

is there  anyway you can see  what  the amps  you are drawing  for just the  pump motor  itself?    

 

Where is  the fuse located  that keeps blowing...    the  pump  supply,  or  the signal/trigger side of the relay?   

I'd  think  that  since you've  eliminated the  harness  for issues,  by  jumpering around the relay....     it's gotta be  the relay.

The fuse should be on the power supply to the pump and the trigger wire is not fused. The trigger is the old lift pump power supply from the ECM and has no fuse. If there is a short in the trigger wire is it possible for that to pop the power supply fuse? Maybe a short in the relay base itself? 

Bare in mind I am electrically challenged  and just throwing this out there. Seems weird it trips with a known good relay and not with a jumper.

Have you tried cleaning all of the electrical connections with electronics cleaner? 

If all the fuses look like the one you pictured it is from an actual short circuit. If the element looks like it just got hot and is mostly there then it is because of either a slight overload or the fuse is getting hot. How are you actually by passing the relay?

is the  fuse  inline like this;        12v battery-------------fuse-----------relay---------------------pump motor

or                                               12vbattery------------------relay-----fuse-----------------------pump motor  

 

I am guessing it's  like the top example.....   if bottom,   your truck would be a cinder  by now (if  bad relay)    I didn't know  if the  ad  harness  used a  fuse in the trigger wire to help protect  the  ecm..      

 

I'd  disconnect  the  harness,  and  measure  ohms  from     supply- to- pump  and  ground.   It  should be  zero.

is there  anyway you can see  what  the amps  you are drawing  for just the  pump motor  itself?    

 

it's gotta be  the relay.

perhaps, i do have a multi-meter(hence how i did the troubleshooting steps from link in a previous post

 

i switched it out with a 5 blade from under the hood in the PDC, it blew the fuse in less than 60secs after the truck started.

The fuse should be on the power supply to the pump and the trigger wire is not fused. The trigger is the old lift pump power supply from the ECM and has no fuse. If there is a short in the trigger wire is it possible for that to pop the power supply fuse? Maybe a short in the relay base itself? 

Bare in mind I am electrically challenged  and just throwing this out there. Seems weird it trips with a known good relay and not with a jumper.

Have you tried cleaning all of the electrical connections with electronics cleaner? 

u are thinking the same way as me.your 1st two sentences are spot on.

to the last question, yes.

How are you actually by passing the relay?

one off the steps on pureflow/airdog's troubleshooting webpage ( http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#pump-quit ) said to remove the airdog's relay and use a jumper wire to connect the yellow wire and red wire at the base.

 

is the  fuse  inline like this;        12v battery-------------fuse-----------relay---------------------pump motor

or                                               12vbattery------------------relay-----fuse-----------------------pump motor  

 

I didn't know  if the  ad  harness  used a  fuse in the trigger wire to help protect  the  ecm..      

 

I'd  disconnect  the  harness,  and  measure  ohms  from     supply- to- pump  and  ground.   It  should be  zero.

it is like the top.

 

it does NOT have a fuse between the trigger wire. the fuse is in-line between the positive from the battery & the relay

 

on the tests that i check for voltages all are normal. all continuity test came back good.

OK, now you really got me thinking. It runs with a jumper, but not a relay? That does not compute. If you pul the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?