hey guys, i have an airdog 2 150 gph pump on my truck.

 

yesterday when driving my fuel pressure all of a sudden hit 0 and i continued to drive home because it wasnt acting funny. when i shut it off and turned key back to run position, the pump wont kick on. ive tried everything i can think of. i traced the ground and hot wires as good as i could without a test light. i made sure they had good clean connection. (dropped my test light on the walk from the building to the truck and broke it of course)

 

i couldnt test the relays, and dont even know where to begin and what to begin looking at because i did not hook this pump up. i dont know which relays or fuses or whatever the pump connects through, anything like that.

 

i am showing error codes P PCU, P0500, P0462, and P1693. all unrelated id assume.

 

can someone please explain to me how to figure out if that pump is burnt out or not. if it is i need it replaced like 3 hours ago. college is starting back, i cant get to work, im at a loss for ideas. anyone that can take the time to help me, i can pay you some money for the time

 

thanks guys, 

 

Logan

OK, now you really got me thinking.

 

It runs with a jumper, but not a relay? That does not compute.

 

If you pul the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?

me too....im pretty good with troubleshooting, but im stumped.

 

correct,but the truck is not running(ie started), as pureflow's instructions said do not start the truck.....that is why im stumped.

 

i think u are confused. OHMs is resistance, and u should not check for resistance on a energized circuit. all the places to check voltage read ~12.6volts(pump connection, relay socket,and inline fuse). all the tests for continuity came back 0.00 or 0.01....open is 1.0.

 

i just got in touch with pureflow, and they seem to think the motor needs to be replaced. i do have a lifetime warranty so they gave me 3 options.

1.send them the pump, they fix it and test, then i pay return shipping

2.they send me a motor after i pay a $150 core charge and pay for shipping

3.i can upgrade to a newer 4G pump that they claim is quieter and has more bells and whistles, for $299

 

i have a problem thinking its a bad motor cause it does blow the fuse with a jumper wire...anyone with ideas???

I would replace the relay before spending that kind of money...I have not seen a relay ever draw enough amps to pop a fuse but if you can bypass it and the pump runs there may be something in there going on. I dont know if you could match that relay at an autoparts store or if it is AD specific....

I would replace the relay before spending that kind of money...I have not seen a relay ever draw enough amps to pop a fuse but if you can bypass it and the pump runs there may be something in there going on. I dont know if you could match that relay at an autoparts store or if it is AD specific....

one of pureflows test were to use a different relay(a 5 blade from the factory PDC box under the hood) in place of airdogs relay. when i did that, the fuse lasted 45-60seconds (of the 9 fuses blown so far, was the longest lived thus far)

3.i can upgrade to a newer 4G pump that they claim is quieter and has more bells and whistles, for $299

 

i'm sure this is the upgrade;  http://www.pureflowtechnologiesairdog.com/airdog-model-engine-info/commercial-transportation/universal-airdog-fpii-150-200/

i'm sure this is the upgrade;  http://www.pureflowtechnologiesairdog.com/airdog-model-engine-info/commercial-transportation/universal-airdog-fpii-150-200/

Is the $299 for the whole set up or just the pump? Not a bad deal for the whole thing if you feel like upgrading, Hopefully they are not having any problems with them.

 

I guess in item 2 the refund the $150 upon receipt of the defective pump?

 

Just wish I had the answer to the original problem. It is just strange.

I know not to check OHMs on a live circuit hense the reason for me to say "If you pull the fuse and OHM the supply to ground with the relay pulled in and with the jumper, what are the readings?"

Yah...   I  see my  error  in my post about  ohm'n   the   'power supply to ground'.       I  didn't  say   where to  apply the   first  probe!    I also  said   'it  should  read zero'.  duh..  Me  Bad!        (  Open  circuits   have  infinity  resistance)    *smacks  head*

 

After  disconnecting  the harness  (from the relay)      put a  probe  on the   terminal of the  relay    that   supplies  12 volts to the  pump..    and  the other probe  to any good  ground.     It  should  not  move the needle,  or   digital meter  should  not  move  toward  zero.       Then,   just for  giggles,   you could       jumper  the  terminal  that  triggers  the  solenoid  ONLY......     and   see   if     having it  energized    changes     anything.   (same again,   OPEN circuit)      If  any  continuity at all,   there is  a   short in the  relay.       As  long as  the  relay  isn't supplied  with  12v   to  the  'line in'  terminal,    You'll  be  safe  to  ohm  the   'line out'  terminal   and  ground.

 

Now,  to the  guy  who   has  it  pop the fuse  even  when it's  jumpered,     It's  time  for a  motor/pump

I would also replace the relay. Maybe just maybe the reed in the relay is weak and current flow is created resistance in the relay which is driving up the current rate and popping the fuse. Remember as voltage at the load goes down the amperage has to go up to match its working load watts.

 

140w = 14 volts x 10.0 amps

 

140w = 12 volts x 11.6 amps

 

140w = 10 volts x 14.0 amps

 

As you can see just a relay with a bit more resistance can drive the working amperage up in a real hurry. Should see what it does to a engine starter with a weak starter contact or bad battery cables the amperage draw its nearly explosive. This is another reason I typically ask people to do a voltage drop test on the wiring under working loads to see if the circuit is dropping more than 0.2 volts (which is a fail).

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

after taking it to a buddy's house, the fuse blew in about 60 seconds with the relay removed and a jumper wire in the relay socket. it was the first time that test failed. i think that pureflow's assessment was correct. i have decided that im well under 500hp so dont need more flow, and the sound of the airdog is what alerted me to the problem. therefore, i shipped my 150 to jefferson city, mo....

thanks to everyone for your thoughts on this problem...i had me tricked. i will update u guys when the pump is on the truck again.

Thanks for the  update....  so many  times   advice is given out,  and   I  kinda like to hear  how  the advice  was  used.... and  if  it  was   effective!

got the pump back from pureflow and it works like a champ. it appears their assessment, that the motor was going south, was correct. thanks to everyone for help/advice. pump has been on the truck for over a week and no problems.

Good deal! Glad it was fixed for you.

Just to toss one on the thread I been talking to a gentleman back east that has lost four AirDog 100 pumps in about one month time. This last one barely travelled 100 miles and losing pressure. Seem AirDog isn't very secure or stable any longer.

Glad I've got the raptor 100 then. Lol.

Any chance a dealer can get some straight skinny from AirDog? Won't be long at this rate that they will reputation themselves out of the business.

I hate to support a crappy product by buying another. But has anyone else bought a back up raptor to keep in their truck? Probably take 10 minutes to change one out and avoid tow bill. Which could easily approach the cost of a second pump.

Edited February 12, 201411 yr by joecool911

If you have the Lifetime Warranty on the pump, why did Air Dog charge you for the replacement? I've had four pumps fail, and I've not paid them anything for the replacements.

I have had my AD for over 3 years with no problems, but if I had to replace every other week or month, it would come out completely even if AD replaced it for free every time. No time for that kind of aggravation.

Airdog recovery kit. 3 speeds, adjustable clutch for better pressure regulation & if the Ricer pulls up, put it in Hammer Mode.... There is an upgrade kit at True Value, Braided stainless hoses for $26.00

 

Ed

 

Airdog recovery kit. 3 speeds, adjustable clutch for better pressure regulation & if the Ricer pulls up, put it in Hammer Mode.... There is an upgrade kit at True Value, Braided stainless hoses for $26.00

 

Ed

 

Airdog recovery kit. 3 speeds, adjustable clutch for better pressure regulation & if the Ricer pulls up, put it in Hammer Mode.... There is an upgrade kit at True Value, Braided stainless hoses for $26.00

 

Ed

 

I bet that if you could wire that drill in to the 12V and mount it somewhere it would work better than AirDog.

 

With all the people I talk to on the phone AirDog quality is at a all time low really.

I'm getting a Fass 150 adjustable for the time being. That way, at least I can put the FP PID back on the PV without wanting to drive through pureflow's front door.

 

Ed