OK so i need some help understanding the waist gate function. On my truck in my sig i have been running a Smarty S-03 for about 2 years and I have had the waist gate both hooked up and un-hooked with a 1/8 plug in the hole on the turbo. Egt's are much lower with the waist gate disconnected. I thought lower EGT's is better?
I guess my Question is what is the harm of disconnecting the waist gate?

Edited January 17, 201411 yr by mulcher812

So with no chips or mods installed(edge or smarty) and the waist gate hooked up normal. Boost pressure was at about 17-18 and 1300-1500 EGT's. Then with the waist gate disconnected it ran 25-27psi and 1100 EGT's.

Holy crap, those EGT's are cookin' for a stock truck! I've never seen over 1,000 degrees, pulling 10,000 lbs... Up a small hill... With a boost leak. (16 PSI max)

So with no chips or mods installed(edge or smarty) and the waist gate hooked up normal. Boost pressure was at about 17-18 and 1300-1500 EGT's. Then with the waist gate disconnected it ran 25-27psi and 1100 EGT's.

 

Do you get bad fuel mileage?

That is with injectors thou.

 

Sounds like the wastegate is opening prematurely, you should see 23 out of it.

That is with injectors thou.

 

Sounds like the wastegate is opening prematurely, you should see 23 out of it.

 

His signature says he has RV275's.

 

7x.010's run cooler than that on a stock truck.

Do you get bad fuel mileage?

 

I wasn't going for mileage it was just a test...

 

That is with injectors thou.

 

Sounds like the wastegate is opening prematurely, you should see 23 out of it.

 

With a few other test done i did find out the at the waist gate internal spring was damaged. I replaced the waist gate and temps came down to 1050-1100 wot and about 20lb of boost.

 

His signature says he has RV275's.

 

7x.010's run cooler than that on a stock truck.

 

I'm about ordering some new tips for these injectors and seeing if i can get some lower EGT's.

 

Right now I'm running my Smarty on level 4 with the Edge Comp on 3x5 with the boost elbow installed. I'm seeing about 30-33psi on boost and 1350-1400 EGT's at wot. As long as i keep my foot out of it :banghead: It seems to be fine. until I figure out how to get the egt's down.

. until I figure out how to get the egt's down.

More air or less fuel.... Not many other ways.

Between the Smarty, injectors, and comp that's a lot of fuel for the stock turbo. I would pick what you want to run, smarty or edge.

More air or less fuel.... Not many other ways.

Between the Smarty, injectors, and comp that's a lot of fuel for the stock turbo. I would pick what you want to run, smarty or edge.

 

I have to say there is a huge difference in how the programmers control the out put of the truck.

I am sure there is, but in the end it's more fuel than you have air for.

When I had my programmers stacked I ran the smarty on sw2 and the comp on 5x5. I saw 30-32 pounds of boost and max egt's to 1300. Just my 

When I had my programmers stacked I ran the smarty on sw2 and the comp on 5x5. I saw 30-32 pounds of boost and max egt's to 1300. Just my 

So your sig says you have both I assume your not running them stacked any more what one are you running now?

If you do want to run both, try running a 3x3 instead of the 3x5 on the comp. That will get rid of some of that extra fuel. Maybe even try a 4x3 to get some extra timing. The timing will help clean it up a bit.

So your sig says you have both I assume your not running them stacked any more what one are you running now?

I still have both in my truck, I just don't have the wire tap on the comp hooked up. I called industrial injection and they said if I tapped the wire even with the stealth plate it would void my warranty   So for now i'm just running the smarty until the warranty is up! (Smarty boost is between 28-30lbs and egs always <1000)

Would they be able to tell that the stealth plate was on there? Isnt that the point of a "stealth" plate? Not to be seen?

Would they be able to tell that the stealth plate was on there? Isnt that the point of a "stealth" plate? Not to be seen?

That is the point, but if I send it back under a warranty claim and they pull the cover off of the computer they will see where the wire was pierced from the stealth plate. With the way my luck went with the blue chip pumps I need all the warranty time I can get!

I a not sure the word STEALTH means much anymore. Especially since all the rebuilders have to have known about them as long as everyone else has. I believe the screw leaves a mark on the electronics.

  I saw first had what it looks like when removed. You can see the spot where the stealth plate tap pokes into the wire.

Well, I guess if anything its better than tapping into the wire. Less exposed and a cleaner look. DAP just specified that the wire couldnt be tapped. They also sell the stealth plate so I would assume they would have specified against using the plate if that would void the warranty too.

It would be worth asking the question before banking on it 

 

Well, I guess if anything its better than tapping into the wire. Less exposed and a cleaner look. DAP just specified that the wire couldnt be tapped. They also sell the stealth plate so I would assume they would have specified against using the plate if that would void the warranty too.

 

It would be worth asking the question before betting the VP on it. DAP probably has to send it back to the rebuilder for any warranty claim. I would think they would look for either place being tapped.

 

He also sells a pump that has a warranty with the pump being tapped. 

Edited January 29, 201411 yr by dripley

He also sells a pump that has a warranty with the pump being tapped. 

 

From DAP?? I thought I had read that DAP gets their vp44's from industrial injection, but I could be wrong. The only place I know 100% will warranty a tapped pump is Blue Chip...... But I still have nightmares about my experience with them