Finally got my EV mechanical gauges from DAP and need some help. This is my first gauge install and I'm not great with wiring. How do you bleed the air out of the fuel line going from the needle valve to the gauge? FYI, I'm skipping the isolator and just running fuel in the cab.

I ran all my line and pulled up a little excess, closed the needle valve, started the engine, cracked open the valve, and bingo the line is full.

Ya I didnt have to bleed my gauges either. Dont really know how it works but it does. Just hooked them up and bam, pressure and fluid filled line.

I bleed mine using an empty bottle and bumped the key once the fuel started coming out i pinched the plastic tubing and plugged it into the gauge. Here is a pic of my gauges

 

Top - trans Temp

Middle - EGT

bottom - Boost

bottom corner - Fuel pressure

 

On the Middle gauge I have a little red light that is hooked to a pressure sensor in case the mechanical gauge was to fail.

It's already been stated, but I didn't bleed my line either. BAM, fuel pressure.

You do not need to bleed the line to get pressure readings. The air will just give you a small cushion at the gauge end. If you put 15 psi at one end of an air bubble you will have 15 psi at the other end.

Everyone has been helpfull in assisting me in diagostig my VP44,  on my 1999 Dodge, with the death code P1688, 10lbs of pressure, voltage at the pump, fuel at the VP, Flow test, per cycle of the Lift Pump (which has been retrofitted in the tank by Dodge at 60k), 1.5 Liters, 55 ounces on two tests, and no fuel at the injectors, at a pump cycle, of either 25 or 30 seconds. At this point it seems the VP is bad?

 

When I change it I want to install a  pressure, gauge I'm confused on electric, then theres issues on the mechanical, I have read that the senders go bad on the electric gaugesm has anyone heard this? If i go mechanical the issue is where to mount it, with a line  over wires, what are most people installing?

 

Also has anyone ever used GlowShift Gauges?, they seem about 30 to 40 dollars chaeper, I don't know why gauges are so expensive, I used to run Stewert warner when I was younger, any ideas i would appreciate

 

Thanks Again

Stay away from glowshift. Some people have good luck with them but most have not. With gauges, some people like electric but I think most people prefer mechanical. Just make sure you run a snubber or needle valve on the line to protect the gauge and you will be just fine. Check out DAP. They usually have some great deals on gauge combos or they also sell individual gauges. Go for Isspro gauges. Good quality product and I have heard the least amount of problems with them.

Using stock lift pumps it is kind of a hit or miss. Even though they pass the flow test, 10 psi is the BARE minimum pressure to keep a VP 44 happy. If you only have 10 psi at idle, you can bet the pressure will probably drop to about 0 under WOT. No good there. If you do get a new VP, I would strongly suggest getting an aftermarket lift pump system, go with Fass if you want to stay electric.

Edited March 10, 201411 yr by Ilikeoldfords

My gauges in the pic above are glow shift and they have been in for 2yrs now and no problems. I will say that if they fail I will be switching over to Isspro EV or EV2 I use a mechanical Ashcroft 0-30 fuel pressure gauge with a snubber in line they work well and only $25 at Napa.

 

Stay away from glowshift. Some people have good luck with them but most have not. With gauges, some people like electric but I think most people prefer mechanical. Just make sure you run a snubber or needle valve on the line to protect the gauge and you will be just fine. Check out DAP. They usually have some great deals on gauge combos or they also sell individual gauges. Go for Isspro gauges. Good quality product and I have heard the least amount of problems with them.

Using stock lift pumps it is kind of a hit or miss. Even though they pass the flow test, 10 psi is the BARE minimum pressure to keep a VP 44 happy. If you only have 10 psi at idle, you can bet the pressure will probably drop to about 0 under WOT. No good there. If you do get a new VP, I would strongly suggest getting an aftermarket lift pump system, go with Fass if you want to stay electric.

 

Thanks I had two codes from the beginning, PO252 and P1688, now I only have the P1688, and like I mentioned, I have pressure and fuel to the pump and voltage, so I don't know what else it could be then the VP?

On the gauges I heard a lot about the fuel killing the sensors on the electric gauges, yet i wonder if the fuel affects the sensors on those low pressure warning lights? I would prefer electric but I don't want to be replacing sensors regualry

 

Thanks

The fuel itself doesnt really effect the sending units for the electrical gauges. It is mainly the water hammer effect that the VP puts on the fuel line that literally beats the sender to death over time. You can and should use a snubber on electric or mechanical to protect the gauge/sender.

I would have to say that the VP is probably dead but I would get a hold of Mike maybe. He is really good and the final diagnosis of a dead VP. His decision, or anyone thats really experienced with them would just be reassuring before shelling out that kind of money. Another thing to keep in mind, most all rebuilt VP's need at least 10 psi at all times otherwise the warranty will be voided. DAP has really good pricing on VP/Lift pump combos. I wouldnt put a new VP in without ditching the stock lift pump and putting something else in there that will keep at least 14 psi at all times.

I agree with  mntom.

 

bubbles of  air  will have  the  same  pressure  as the fluid..  gauge will  read  the same

 

My   '73  Plymouth  with a  transplanted  383   runs   about  75  psi at idle.    I have   the  semi clear  oil line feeding back to the gauge...  It's  solid oil  when the engine is  running,  but  shut it off,  and  there are  gaps  in the  oil  the  full length  of  the line.

Awesome. Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks I had two codes from the beginning, PO252 and P1688, now I only have the P1688, and like I mentioned, I have pressure and fuel to the pump and voltage, so I don't know what else it could be then the VP?

On the gauges I heard a lot about the fuel killing the sensors on the electric gauges, yet i wonder if the fuel affects the sensors on those low pressure warning lights? I would prefer electric but I don't want to be replacing sensors regualry

 

Thanks

 

P0252 and the P1688 code is a electronics failure of the PSG on the VP44. The electronics typically fail from a few different things. Heat from lack of fuel pressure to keeping it cooled. Then dirty power from the alternator it should be less than 0.1 AC volts present. Yes water hammer pulse will kill sensors, low pressure switches, and mechanical gauge the same way.

Two things:

 

1. Fluid does not compress, gasses will...

 

2. Another good recommendation is to pay attention to fuel lubricity as well. Next time your pumping, pay attention to whether or not the pump says it includes biodiesel. If so, no need to add 2-stroke. If it does not say anything, add 1oz. 2-stroke oil to your tank per how many gallons you filled the tank up with. Essentially, a 128:1 ratio.