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haha.....so i went to change the fuel filter yesterday, took it out, changed the filter, drained the can(first time i've ever done that), put the filter in, and did the starter bump thing...the truck ran for 30 seconds, then died, so i bumped the starter a few times so the pump could cycle....after about 6 times of that, i opened the can to see if it actually was working....and of course it wasn't........ so long story short, i went to o'reilly's, got the Air Tex stock replacement and am waitin on reinforcements to show up to help me R&I..... now for the point of why i think so many of y'all gave up on CF...here's my thread over there http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/236254-f-m-l.html it's guys like black01 that makes folks leave........

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Let's just say we are all adults here. We appreciate what the other says to a question that we might have whether we like the answer or not. The replys that you get are civil and BEST of all backed with fact not ego!

  • Owner

After taking a small peek at that that thread I was quite surprised the MOD's and ADIMN's didn't jump on them for this... Wow! I know is a common mistake to not fill the fuel filter housing after a filter change... But doesn't mean to attack the the other members... I know the amount of time I've corrected forum myths and lore. But I've normally kept a level head and continued to help people even though in the back of my mind I'm saying "Geez you dummy!"... But I stay perfessional and help them over come there problems with there truck...

while i agree with black01 about the fact you CAN use a GOOD lift pump to fill the canister(that is how i typically do it, cause i don't crack lines if i don't have to), but you don't have to be a d*ck to everyone. maybe he was having a bad day...taking it out on you may have kept his wife's eye clear.(just kidding). before my airdog, the stock carter would take at min 15 bumps to fill it. That was my wake up to the need of a better fuel system...but before the airdog i typically poured diesel into the can(once i even had to siphon out of the tank! stupid carter!)

I read your CF thread about 1/2 hours ago. Black01 was way out of line (Strange thing is he has an 02 and it's white?). He came across as a troll. No one needs that. I haven't entirely abandoned CF but I definitely spend way less time there than before. I find the people on here have similar goals with their trucks and we're all friends.

  • Author

well thanks for the replies guys...i got the tex in and the stocker out, turned the key five times, cranked the truck once to get it to prime, cracked the banjo at the vp, got spray, cracked 1 and 3 and then had to get jumped(by my dad's 6.0 stoker at that...kinda embarrassing...haha) and she fired right off, tightened the lines and drove.....i'll take the carter apart(which according to my dad, the PO of the truck, may well be the original....and it finally gave up the ghost after 140k and 8 years) and see if the shaft sheared....which is what i believe happened

  • Owner

[ATTACH]516[/ATTACH]Check and see if the plastic hub falls out..Then you might talk to Racer Dan he's got a re-worked rotor that fits directly into the stock motor but doesn't have the plastic hub. Bit pricey but it a solid fix...

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cumns2500, For future reference, the stock lift pump and in some cases even the Air Dog or FASS cannot and will not always properly purge the fuel filter cannist of the air pocket that forms after replacing the fuel filter. The fuel filter cannist must either be manually refilled or you can purge the cannist by using the lift pump in a different fashion. I showed my wife how to do this on her truck in the event she ever had to replace the fuel filter. Open fuel filter cannister lid. Open drain valve and drain fuel. Remove cannister lid with fuel filter attached. (be sure to lay rags over the area you will move the fuel soaked filter over so as not to make a mess) VERY carefully wipe out and inspect the WIF sensor with a lint free rag. (not a paper towel or any other rag that can leave lint or other residue) Blow out fuel cannister with high pressure compressed air. Remove old fuel filter from cannister top Remove old o-rinf from cannister top Install new o-ring and fuel filter on cannister top. Close fuel cannister drain valve Install cannister top with new fuel fitler and o-ring but only thread the cannister top down 2 or 3 turns. (enough to hold the cannister top on under pressure but loose enough to allow any air to escape. Lay rags on top of starter to absorb any fuel that dribbles down on it. Bump starter but do NOT start engine. Lister for lift pump to cycle for 20 seconds. Watch fuel cannister top for steady flow of fuel coming out around cannister top threads. Turn ignition key switch off. Torque fuel cannister top down to 27 ft. lbs. being very careful to ensure the o-ring seal does not get pinched. (I'm going from memory so double check my numbers) Clean up underhood area and remove all rags. Fire up engine. This method is not neatest way and spills a little bit of fuel but it is a sure fire way to ensure the fuel cannister and fuel system are properly primed after replacing the fuel filter.

Edited by LiveOak

  • Author

thank you sir....very helpful post....i'll do this the next time i change filter in probably 5k miles

  • Author

[ATTACH]516[/ATTACH] Check and see if the plastic hub falls out.. Then you might talk to Racer Dan he's got a re-worked rotor that fits directly into the stock motor but doesn't have the plastic hub. Bit pricey but it a solid fix...

:thumbsup: yeah i may well get that and keep the stocker in the truck just in case :thumbsup:

My first time of changing the fuel filter I had about 1" of air in the can. Drained the batteries dead trying to start it. Now, I fill the cannister up until I know the filter has accepted all of the fuel it will hold. Turn the key over, and she purrs like a kitten. Trying to let the pump fill up the cannister and then trying to start it IMHO is going to play havoc on the VP. I would rather get some diesel on me than have to put on a new VP prematurely.

  • Owner

Just to be a wise arse...I just spin my filter on dry and bump the starter... AD 150 is nice because I don't have to mess with stock filter for a very long time... I kept my stock filter for the fuel heater and WIF sensor. Personally I'm not to fond of the stock filter system because its a great trap spot for air bubbles...

  • Author

good points Mikei took the stocker apart(which IS the stock pump, lasted 8 years and damn near 140k), jumped it strait to the battery, and the impeller and rotor both spin, but really slow...so it could probably just barely suck enough fuel to keep the truck runnin right, the new tex is much better....but i will have a raptor 100 w/ the first 400 bucks i earn when i get a job...well maybe my first 800 cause i'll be gettin gauges from diesel manor too....

But I've normally kept a level head and continued to help people even though in the back of my mind I'm saying "Geez you dummy!"...

Now I understand the long pauses on the phone.
  • Author

lmaoi was actually gonna give you a call when i had the pump apart, mike, but i needed both hands to jump it to the batter to see if it worked

  • Owner

Now I understand the long pauses on the phone.

Geez... After all that I've been through with you... Geez... Your breaking my heart here... :cry:

lmao i was actually gonna give you a call when i had the pump apart, mike, but i needed both hands to jump it to the batter to see if it worked

I see how I rate... The pump test was more important that the phone call... :lmao: It's all good... You guys just keep piling on the problems and making me think even harder...:shocked2:
  • Author

i'll say that the pump is a lot simpler than what i would've thought...the part that looks like a carb bowl hold the motor, and the shaft spins the impeller that sucks the fuel in and there's a strainer to keep stuff out i guess...and then there's the five small plates that fit into the impellerand mike, i do need to call ya bud...i have another small problem w/ the rig that DIDN'T go away w/ the filter change....

I joined CF just before I found Mike's site. It is your typical, giant forum, with loads of information, and dis-information, flame wars, and all the other B$. Mike's is a lot more personal. The inlinediesel.com site is very personal, but they only get a couple of new posts a week. If you are looking for help, it could take a while before any one jumps in.

I joined CF just before I found Mike's site. It is your typical, giant forum, with loads of information, and dis-information, flame wars, and all the other B$. Mike's is a lot more personal. The inlinediesel.com site is very personal, but they only get a couple of new posts a week. If you are looking for help, it could take a while before any one jumps in.

Well said! Didn't know inlinediesel.com was back on line. That was the first sight I used when I lived in Southern Utah.

I see the thread has now been closed after a two page battle between a few guys, kinda sad that people are like that...

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.