My driver's side ABS sensor is bad and I'm going to replace it next week but, I seem to remember Michael saying you need to replace both front sensors at the same time or the ECM won't recognize it. Replace just the broken one or both?...they're $50 a piece. 

When me front left unit bearing went out I changed just that side and had no issues. But that was changing the whole assembly and maybe that was the difference. However, I do remember Mike saying they need to be changed in pairs.

Never had a single problem changing one side

I had one break a wire and so I bought just one sensor. The ABS/BRAKE light remained on till I replace the other sensor then it went out. Even Wild & Free had the same problem.

Well, I'l buy one for now and see what happens...

Thanks guys

I did just one with no issues yet

The few times I stopped hard enough for ABS felt like the truck wouldn't stop a normal stop.

Would disabling it be a concern to my insurance?

In my early days of gaining experience without ABS taught you to drive with a bit of skill.

Does NASCAR utilize ABS?

Sorry to get off topic.

Edited May 18, 201411 yr by JAG1

Well, replaced driver's side sensor/harness, checked fuses, and put over 100 miles on her since the install and the ABS/Brake light is still on. Is there a brake in period?

Have you pulled codes to see what is actually wrong?

My local shop used their $10,000 snap on reader to and told me that's what it was, I think they checked for voltage too because the harness was disconnected when I got my truck back. I just checked, no codes from my reader or dash trick. 

ABS codes are typically read with a DRBIII tool and can't be read with typical OBDII code readers.

 

Well, replaced driver's side sensor/harness, checked fuses, and put over 100 miles on her since the install and the ABS/Brake light is still on. Is there a brake in period?

 

No. It should reset at the first few hundred feet. So basically you have a speed mismatch and one axle is running a different speed than the other so the lights remain on. Just like I said you typically have to replace is match pairs. Very very rare do you get luck and just replace one sensor.

Why? Speed mis-match? The part from RockAuto was Wells/Airetx, but the package had a mopar sticker on it, so it was a factory part. Why would it read different? 

Why? Speed mis-match? The part from RockAuto was Wells/Airetx, but the package had a mopar sticker on it, so it was a factory part. Why would it read different? 

 

Because the magnet on the older sensor is weaker now and the new sensor is stronger so the AC wave that is produced is different.

 

More here too...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

 

Ohh, thanks Michael. Learn something new everyday

The few times I stopped hard enough for ABS felt like the truck wouldn't stop a normal stop.

Would disabling it be a concern to my insurance?

In my early days of gaining experience without ABS taught you to drive with a bit of skill.

Does NASCAR utilize ABS?

Sorry to get off topic.

I feel the  same,   I'm in no hurry to  'fix'  my  ABS.   

Yep,  ABS  sure helps  in  keeping  a vehicle  pointed in the right direction,  but  when  push comes to shove....    give me  max  'whoa'  FIRST...  I'll worry about the  front end damage later.

 

Our  gravel  is  tiny  round  stones...  just like  ball bearings.  Panic   situations  need  a  locked tire to  gouge  past  that layer and   hook into something  more solid  underneath.  

 

BTW.   when in  4X4,   is the  ABS  locked out?  Or  is  both axles  being  managed?

BTW.   when in  4X4,   is the  ABS  locked out?  Or  is  both axles  being  managed?

 

Both are being managed there a 4WD sense lead back to the ABS unit to change it calculation of the braking force.

 

Installed other front ABS sensor and the dash light comes and goes. I only took it for a 10 mile or so drive, not going faster than 45 mph. Bad connection? Give it time? 

Installed other front ABS sensor and the dash light comes and goes. I only took it for a 10 mile or so drive, not going faster than 45 mph. Bad connection? Give it time? 

 

Bad connection somewhere. The Anti-Lock Controller unit is detecting a loss of signal or variance of signal.

Found it! Disconnected ground. Somebody was playing tricks on me.

Thanks for all your input everyone.

Glad you found you final problem and now the lights are off.

Good to see you found your problem.