i am trying to decide which turbo to go with. A phatshaft 62/12 is what industrial injection recommended. I tow and i want to keep my egts down. What experiences have you had with egts and a phatshaft?? i once hit 1550 PL6 the day i got hot unlock i need to get them down so i can run my truck WOT

Most people run their trucks just fine with the stock HX35 up until about 100hp injectors. I am wondering if you dont have a boost leak or something else going on. 1500 degrees is a bit toasty I think on a stock engine. 1400 for a couple seconds is supposed to be the max.

 

If I were you I might look into getting a turbo off of a 3rd gen. They are a nice upgrade from the HX35 and usually run well with 75-100hp injectors. Not to mention, they are a ton cheaper too.

Run those "75's" with your HX35, and control your EGT's with your programmer.

 

What is your boost at WOT?

I would suggest checking your turbo if its the HY then that is your problem. The HY only has a 9cm exhaust housing as to where the HX has a 12cm housing. huge difference in the amount of exhaust output of the truck. The Phatshaft 62/12 is a real good turbo but you may want to check into the 62/80/14 then when you want to do the 100-150 hp sticks you will have the flow for that too. Have you done head studs yet? If not I wouldn't push the boost past 40psi.

Can you do the head studs without removing the head? Like pull one stud at a time and replace? Then re-torque the entire head with the normal sequence?

Can you do the head studs without removing the head? Like pull one stud at a time and replace? Then re-torque the entire head with the normal sequence?

I did mighty diesel head bolts about 4,000 miles ago with no head leakage to date. Pulled one at a time, replaced with new bolt and torqued to spec, a higher spec than stock. But, I haven't pushed my truck hard in a while and haven't hauled anything since the install. I was planning on doing a write up after I get my super b and consistently run 40+ psi just to make sure there are no issues. If you have a good head/block and gasket to begin with, and a proper install, it can be done.

Can you do the head studs without removing the head? Like pull one stud at a time and replace? Then re-torque the entire head with the normal sequence?

Yep. There are many that have studs and did it that way. Just start in the center and follow the sequence and torque as you go.

I did my head studs one at a time. Like MnTom said start in the center and work your way out in a clockwise rotation. Cylinders 5 &6 are the hardest being under the cowl.

Head studs are only needed if you plan on pushing more than 30-35 psi. A super B or Phatshaft will be gated for 40psi. If you plan on pushing that kind of air then you would want to do the studs in order to keep the head seated.

Most people run their trucks just fine with the stock HX35 up until about 100hp injectors. I am wondering if you dont have a boost leak or something else going on. 1500 degrees is a bit toasty I think on a stock engine. 1400 for a couple seconds is supposed to be the max.

If I were you I might look into getting a turbo off of a 3rd gen. They are a nice upgrade from the HX35 and usually run well with 75-100hp injectors. Not to mention, they are a ton cheaper too.

Sorry! So what are the model #'s of a 3rd gen turbo. Would love one with engine brake built in! How difficult of a swap is that?

its been a while but im getting 35 psi at wot i thought hy 35 can only hit like 25 psi

its been a while but im getting 35 psi at wot i thought hy 35 can only hit like 25 psi

 

HY35 can hit whatever boost you want it to hit if you throw enough fuel in the mix. Some people grenade their HY at nearly 60 PSI!

 

Most people suggest no more than 30 PSI, because beyond that, you're just pushing hot air. 35 PSI isn't hurting anything though.

i will check tomorrow what turbo i have. its a 2001 6speed it should have an hx i thought autos had the hy but i will make sure

Sorry I wasn't paying attention. '01 and '02 autos have the HY, so you have an HX.

Most the time I typically find someone posting "Just turn it down a bit." Makes me chuckle typically like myself I've got +50HP injectors and run the Edge Comp on 5x3. But for the sake of testing what happens if you turn it off. Like if I was towing up hill and turn off the Edge Comp there is sudden drop in power but the ECM will throttle back up to hold speed. Typically there is no difference in temperature.

 

My typical method of EGT control is slow down, gear down from 5th to 4th and run the tach at about 2,000 to 2,100 RPM's and typically the EGT's drop to 1,000 to 1,100*F on most all 6-7% grades here in Idaho.

 

Just food for thought...

62/12 you'll want a 65 turbine with that fuel.