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We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.

Posted

Hello everyone, long time no talk. Life has been busy and health has been bleh...

 

Long story short i was coming back from utah for a friends wedding and he was moving as well. I towed the uhaul trailer 6'x12' densly packed and very very heavy. Had no problems going through the mountains on HWY 80 EB till about 80 mi from lariamie WY. I was heading up a very long grade and towards the top something bad happened.

 

Here are the stats of when it happened

 

speed 70

gear 6

EGT under 1250 (no more than 60 seconds@1250, i saw it and turned the cruise off and throttled down)

boost around 20psi

rpm appx 1800~ cant remember exactly but was below 2000

oil psi normal ~65

fuel psi 18-20

temp rose from normal 180F to appx 200F when i powered down (within the white brackets)

 

What happened was a knock appeared and progressed to a loud knock quickly. I unloaded the engine and babied it to the crest which was less than half mile. Pulled over and the knock rose to a certain level and stayed there, excess blowby is observed and nothing else abnormal aside from the knock.

 

I havent torn into the engine but i am presuming either a cracked/melted piston or a conrod bearing went to hell or both.  I have my backup vehicle that ill be using for my trip and when i get back ill tear the engine apart.

 

Things i did learn from this, My RPM's were too low, egts were too high and in too high of a gear pushing too hard too long.

 

Fresh oil/filter air filter done before trip 3 weeks ago. zero issues aside from a cam sensor that gets fussy here and there. (was going to replace it when i got back this week as its bolt is stripped...)

 

Anyone have any thoughts or questions?

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so good news and some little bad news.  got the engine in, hooked up enough to run (no cooling system or intercooler)  good oil pressure, didnt check for blowby yet as i still heard a bit of injector knock on #6 i believe. So i am going to swap #6 with #1 and see if it moves and if it does i need to get another rv275. If it doesnt move, i will just break it in.

 

Does anyone have a single rv275 they have lying around they want to sell? It is the only thing that is still "original" to that cylinder and i think it may have been damaged when it broke down.

 

I am inclined to agree with W&F on this. 

 

I understand that money is tight.  The point being that you do NOT want to throw good money after bad.  Who does?  Think of it in these terms:

 

 

For Want of a Nail

For want of a nail the shoe was lost.

For want of a shoe the horse was lost.

For want of a horse the rider was lost.

For want of a rider the message was lost.

For want of a message the battle was lost.

For want of a battle the kingdom was lost.

And all for the want of a horseshoe nail.

 

 

Think again about the money you may save and what that injector or injectors may ultimately cost you.  Just don't want to see the possibility of all of your hard work and money spent be lost. 

 

 

Edited by LiveOak

  • Author

ok new injector came in and buttoned everything up and started. #6 still knocks like it individually advanced or something, i cracked the line and it goes away. i have a little white smoke but also ive yet to do break in. the only thing left is the vp44 is possibly messed up, im at a loss now...

any ideas will be appreciated.

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

What are the exhaust manifold temps at each cylinder when shot with an IR gun?

 

Remember the inline 6 cylinder firing order is 153624.  On many occasions if you think #6 is knocking is because it is working harder to compensate for # 5 or 3 being week or dead. :whistle: 

 

Once again throwing money and parts at things due to not knowing / following the basics.

  • Author

Well i went with my brothers suggestion and drove it and get it hot, the issue cleared itself and the white smoke that was happening went away as soon as #6 cleared and the knock disappeared

  • Author

knock before it cleared

http://youtu.be/JvnTSoWcJ8A

Edited by CUMMINSDIESELPWR

On your first video with the knock, are you trying to scare the pants off of people at the end? :evilgrin::tongue::lmao:

So what do you attribute the knock going away from? That is different.......

Great to see that you got this beast working right. I am scratching my head on this injector issue as it could be a number of things that was causing it. For now, it is working and that sure beats a stick in the eye. Go with it but I would keep a watch eye AND ear out for this issue in the future. Hopefully it will not recur. Nice job getting the truck back together.

 

So what do you attribute the knock going away from? That is different.......

I vote for  air in the  line.  So, not really a 'knock'  but  a partially  dead  cylinder.  Not enough  fuel to  quite light it up,  but enough to make  white smoke.    The  longer the  injection line,  such as  #6,   the  harder it is  for it to   'blow out'  the  air..  

It's really hard to  'hear'  (for me)   the tell tale  signs  on a video clip..

Edited by rancherman

  • Author

i think there was something sticking in the vp as there was plenty of fuel spitting when i cracked the line. almost like too much fuel for too long...

but yes im glad its gone, ive had the system dry many times and it boggled me too, never happened before

There is no such thing as a longer injection line on a diesel. They are all the same length. This is so that the timing will be the same per cylinder. That is why you see some with funky bends.

 

Ed

Out of an abundance of caution and curiosity, by chance, have you checked to see if you have any codes latched?

:duh:   I just knew the second I hit  'enter'  with that last post....  I was  doomed.  Thanks  Yankneck for pointing out the  obvious.

  • Owner

:duh:   I just knew the second I hit  'enter'  with that last post....  I was  doomed.  Thanks  Yankneck for pointing out the  obvious.

 

We are all human and error from time to time...

  • Author

Out of an abundance of caution and curiosity, by chance, have you checked to see if you have any codes latched?

no codes at all, was checking frequently
  • 10 months later...
  • Author

here is a long term rebuild update, its been a hectic year since rebuild...

 

Moved to florida from colorado 1900 miles towing trailer same size as when the engine ate itself. No issues.

 

then got a job in wisconsin another 1900 miles from florida with same trailer again and even went up a nasty grade in north carolina out of asheville and had zero issues.

 

next up is sanding the bumper and rhino lining it instead of paint, also sand the running boards and bed down and rhino line them as well (rusty up here from salt)

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.