Well ever since I've starting to work with Lindy I've really taken interest in making my truck near perfect again. I'm actually chasing down all the little weeping leaks. Like I've known about a fuel leak for quite awhile in the back either #6 injector line or the return at the back of the head. So since I've been keeping the rig washed down it really showing up now. So now I pulled the valve cover snugged the return banjo. This really made the job easy to reach the banjo bolt. As a matter of fact the IAT sensor is a breeze to get at without the hoist ring and the valve cover. Then backed off and reseated the injector line. So later on I got to degrease the back of the engine again and check again. It leaves a light fuel residue on the block and bottom of the bellhousing. But never drips on the floor of the shop. I'm also watch my pan gasket start to weep a bit. While the valve cover was off I might as well run the valve lash again. Not really bad but some were just a bit loose for my liking. Intake (0.008") and Exhaust (0.018"). I like snug!

 

Needless to say in the wet highway 4th gear spins the tires now...

I would really love to take the time and chase down some of the small leaks like that too. Mine never leaves a drop on the ground but the engine compartment is getting to be quite the mess. I know my pan gasket is weeping a fair amount and the tappet cover is starting to weep a bit as well. I changed the washers on the return banjo earlier this spring and that seems to have stopped any fuel leaks I had. I think its all just engine oil leaks now.

I've got a vacuum pump seal kit sitting in the shop one day I'll have to jump in and change that. But the thing is since I started working with Lindy at the shop he's made it a point to take the nasty rides outside hit them with "Power Clean" and then power wash them off. Typically done first thing in the morning or last thing before we leave. This way they dry you pull it in the shop and you can work on a fairly clean rig and not be up to your elbows in grease and dirt dropping in your face. Well since he gave me his old power washer I've been doing weekly wash downs. Man take about nice to work on your own rig and you don't even really need a rag. Also now since the block is dry it really does show up the leaks really well. But I will admit if you got any thick dirt/grease build up it takes several washing to get rid of it. So be patient.

i chased all my leaks down the hard way.

rebuild

hahaha

mike have you done a vacuum pump before? if not i got a few pointers that i learned on mine tips too

Let's hear them. I thought I had a vacuum pump thread but I guess not.

Nice Mike.  I have zilch for a washer here at my base... no auto hobby shop either and my engine if FILTHY!  I'm hoping the truck stays together until for another two years til I get back to Colorado.  

 

My diffs seep a little and it smokes a puff of oil smoke on start up.  I hope its the turbo.  It burns clean the rest of the time.  :D  I'd like to get it back home in a year, put a new dash in it, check the engine out for the smoke issue and repaint it. 

Edited November 2, 201410 yr by CSM

well when i did mine, it was real easy, depending on how nasty the pump housing is will dictate a gasbath or not to clean it. I cleaned mine in gas  as it was nasty and it came out real nice.

 

Putting it back together, gotta make sure it is assembled exactly the same as it was taken apart (obviously lol)  driving the seals is an easy task. Mainly the sleeve on the backside where the steering pump inserts into...  Drive the seal into the sleeve all the way, put the oring on the outside and use a large socket to drive the sleeve into the housing --->EVENLY<---  first try i didnt evenly drive it in and it was slightly off, and not deep enough into the housing and the pump wouldnt bolt to the vacuum pump. I then placed a socket under the gear and drove the sleeve evenly and further into the housing about a 1/4"-1/2" away from the drive face/key assembly inside the vacuum pump. everything bolted up nicely after that and no leaks.  before putting the vacuum pump together, drop a little bit of machine oil in the pump rotor to get it prelubed.  there should be instructions that come with the kit, its easy to do, i spent more time cleaning the housing than putting it together.  let me know if you have questions

Cummins kit if I remember right doesn't have any instructions just the seals. Only paid $13 bucks for it.

Same thing I used and no instructions but it's about as easy as there is.  I had more trouble getting the PS hoses off than anything else.  Rest was pretty self explanatory.

2 bolts seperate the vacuum pump housing, there is a thin oring between the two and the inner seal on the sleeve and an outer oring on the sleeve. very easy to do. also the gasket to gear housing too

Mike, what is the oil fill cap mod ya got there? (line attached)?

That looks like a Frantz bypass filter return line to me.

When I bought my truck several months ago I hit everything with the Hotsy here at work. Considering all the work I've had to do to this thing the only leak I had was a loose power steering hose. I still keep a close eye on everything and have a vacuum pump kit under the seat for when that day comes. Its getting kind of dusty again so its about time to hit the Hotsy again before winter.

Mike, what is the oil fill cap mod ya got there? (line attached)?

 

 

That looks like a Frantz bypass filter return line to me.

 

Correct that is my Frantz Bypass filter return line.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/garage/vehicle/2-dodge-ram-2500/?tab=mods&mod_id=12