Im bout due for an oil change. i usually run VPB 5/40. but the only place in town that has it is 28.?? a gallon.

the local tractor supply has rotella T6 5/40 for 19.?? gallon. but that are all sold out.

so with my new LF9028 extended service oil filter. i'm thinking amsoil at a total of 130$ something or VPB for about 96$

right now i run about 7500-8K miles on my oil. it still looks good not to black.

i'll do a sample and send to blackstone at time of change. but i need to buy oil... what to buy?

i have  at my disposal Travelers, super tech, valvoline, rotella, mystic.

i know clean oil is good. but i don't want to be throwing hard earned cash away if a better oil will last longer and be better for a few more $'s.

 

i would love to get my hands on some of this.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/oem-endorsed-products/73

but i can't find it online or intown. most people look at me funny when i tell them i want it.

 

i need input!!

Edited December 27, 201410 yr by Killer223

about the one minute mark.

 

I like Valvoline blue for conventional (Cummins certified) Then Rotella T ( only because an old automotive machinist told me 25 years ago it could`nt be beat).

as for synthetics.. I don`t think you can beat Mobil 1 for price and performance. JMO.

 

I have been running Baldwins BT7349.. Its handy to get when I buy their PF7977 fuel filter.

Edited December 30, 201410 yr by angus

well had to change the oil, My OCD wouldn't let me keep it past the 7500 miles. we have a big snow storm on it's way and i didn't want to be changing it in the mud if the sample came back it need to be changed. i sent off an oil sample. pending it's results maybe this next oil will last longer. the oil was still very slippery between the fingers. i know it still had life but how much i'm not sure. i await the results. i went with Valvoline Premium blue 5/40 synthetic. changed the fuel filters as well. i drained the bowl into a mason jar, no water or dust that my eyes could see anyhow. will let it set for a day or so with lid on tight.

well had to change the oil, My OCD wouldn't let me keep it past the 7500 miles. we have a big snow storm on it's way and i didn't want to be changing it in the mud if the sample came back it need to be changed. i sent off an oil sample. pending it's results maybe this next oil will last longer. the oil was still very slippery between the fingers. i know it still had life but how much i'm not sure. i await the results. i went with Valvoline Premium blue 5/40 synthetic. changed the fuel filters as well. i drained the bowl into a mason jar, no water or dust that my eyes could see anyhow. will let it set for a day or so with lid on tight.

I don`t think you can go wrong with any of Valvoline`s products.. So was the Premium Blue (synthetic) $28 a gallon?

 

I was looking at a link from wally world, and they had Mobil 1  5/40 for $26 a gallon.. just curious how competitive they are

Edited December 30, 201410 yr by angus

i think it was 27 n some change at local Napa, only place that had the synthetic VPB. he has gallons of AMSoil at 33. next time that's what i'll run.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oils/11

 

They claim Cummins approved 5,000 change extension.. Just crunching the numbers it sounds like a small price to pay for the added benifits

Edited December 30, 201410 yr by angus

http://www.valvoline.com/products/commercial-industrial-products/heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oils/11

 

They claim Cummins approved 5,000 change extension.. Just crunching the numbers it sounds like a small price to pay for the added benifits

 

 

But which Cummins engine?

 

I wouldn't be extending a 2007.5+ any past the light if the emissions was still intact. The OCI on those motors is based on fuel dilution, and there isn't an oil that can help with that.

But which Cummins engine?

 

I wouldn't be extending a 2007.5+ any past the light if the emissions was still intact. The OCI on those motors is based on fuel dilution, and there isn't an oil that can help with that.

 

Hmmm, I`m not familiar with the later model emissions junk, but I think you raise a valid point.. even an older engine depending on the health (blow by) etc.. may not be wise to push the limits?

 

My concern with extended change intervals is at what point does that black oil begin to leave sludge deposits in your engine?

 

Can you actually run 12k in a healthy 03 CR without being right on the edge?

If you added a bypass filter (your choice of brand), you could go to yearly oil changes (maybe longer with OA) IMHO even with dino oil.

 

With the $$$ you're wasting changing out synthetic oil that frequently, a bypass would pay for itself in no time.

My views on synthetic oils have always been based on operating conditions, and not so much service intervals.... Ironically my Cummins lives a relitively sheltered life, and its my old GMC gas rig that pulls stock trailers, and a 12k hay trailer in the middle of summer.

With only a 5 quart system this is the truck I should probably be the most concerned with.

At least the 2nd Gens can run a full 7,500 miles I'm pretty sure the 3rd Gens have a slightly longer change interval.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

Kinda bored today, and found this interesting read.  Particularly the facts about cold startup, and storage.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

Kinda bored today, and found this interesting read.  Particularly the facts about cold startup, and storage.

that's what i was reading and made me change my oil yesterday.

i did notice the start up is quieter.

 

this is what my manual tell me.

 

This filter has a sort of bypass built in. will it really be worth it? idk, do we really use the other normal filters to their full potential? i'm not sure either.? how does one know if their filter is "full" and is opening the bypass valve?

I think the LF9028 would be worth it.

 

In 7500 miles you are not opening the bypass valve, which is in the filter head and not the filter on our engines. You would have to seriously neglect the truck to plug a filter that bad.

then why not apply the old theory that a dirty filter filters better? why change the filter every 7500 and not just drop the oil and change that? what am i missing?

It all depends on the filter, many of them are not designed to last that long. While it's unlikely you will plug it, why not change a cheap filter??

 

To me that's more of a fuel filter thing, thou it does effect all filter I just don't worry about it on oil.

 

You also keep a bit of the old oil in the motor.

 

A really good oil filter is 15um absolute and a really good fuel filter is 3um absolute as a fuel system has tighter tolerances.

 

On my diesel I change both oil filters with the oil, but on my gasser I change the bypass every other year. On the diesel I want all the sooty oil gone, on the gasser it's okay to have a little leftover oil.

On my '04.5..................this is what I do now............

 

I do yearly change outs of oil and OEM filter and 1 roll of TP.  At or around 6 months of the prior change, I change out the TP and add 1qt of "make up" oil.  I still get essentially "stellar" reports from Blackstone.

 

I put on about 20,000 miles/year.

On my '04.5..................this is what I do now............

 

I do yearly change outs of oil and OEM filter and 1 roll of TP.  At or around 6 months of the prior change, I change out the TP and add 1qt of "make up" oil.  I still get essentially "stellar" reports from Blackstone.

 

I put on about 20,000 miles/year.

 .. What is one roll of TP?? I hope its not what I think.

Frantz oil filter

 .. What is one roll of TP?? I hope its not what I think.

 

 

Yup.................butt wipes!!  Probably the oldest filter media out there for automobiles......................goes back to at least the '50's...........................when ordering a vehicle from a dealer and an oil filter was an "option"!!!