Truck is an '00 2wd auto with 229k, I just drove it this afternoon to go pick up a replacement water pump because I noticed water leaking out the pee hole this morning. Got home, shut it off, and let it cool for a while, then pulled the old WP off and used the water hose to flush the radiator and the block. 

Got everything buttoned back up, put the belt on, filled it up and hit the key, and it turned part of a revolution then stopped. Hit the key again, and the same thing happened, but this time the check gages light/tone came on, because one of my batteries is weak and it doesn't like cold cranking. So before I drag the jump box out, I think to check if the water pump is turning, so I pop the belt off and give it a spin. It's fine, so I put the belt back on and try again. Same thing, spins probably 1/4 revolution then quits. 

This time I break out a 7/8" socket and try to turn the alternator. It'll turn counter-clockwise, but clockwise just slips the pulley on the belt. So thinking maybe somehow it's gotten itself hydrolocked (which would make zero sense to me, but hey, who knows,) I crack a few injectors to see if it makes a difference. 

It does not.

So, now I'm inside searching forums and posting this, while the truck sits on 20A charge.

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

edit: everything electrical seems to be working - all lights/etc work fine. Bumping the key does not run the FASS, though, just shakes the truck as it tries to crank the motor over but encounters resistance. 

Edited February 20, 201510 yr by ronman

I pulled everything off today (valve cover, exhaust manifold/turbo, intake elbow, fuel lines) and there's definitely been some water in the valvetrain. There was a great deal of condensation on the underside of the VC and several spots of surface rust forming on the rockers. I also found a pretty significant oil spot at the head/block interface at the back of the head on the exhaust side. 

 

I drained the oil and it was a uniform black, and didn't feel compromised/emulsified at all. I'm ready to pull the head Thursday when I can get the loader to push it into the garage so I can use the crane, unless you've got better ideas. 

 

The heater core was replaced about 8 months ago (along with the evaporator while I was in there.) 

 

What do I have to do to remove the injectors? I don't have Cummins Tool No. 2193493247...

 

Regarding the batteries, I haven't had to boost it except the other day; the starter has more than enough amps to spin the engine over fast enough to crank. The fact that I cannot turn the engine using a 3' breaker bar on the alternator bolt (again, the belt just slips on the pulley if I turn it CW, but it turns CCW.) I'll replace the p/s battery when it's absolutely necessary, for now it'll be OK. 

as for the injectors all you need is to loosen one bolt for hold down that is on the left (the one that is easy to get to) slide retainer plate out that holds down injector, then take a valve cover bolt and screw it in injector put screw driver under it and pup it up. make sure you pull cross over tubes out first, after taking injection lines out in two sections, take a small flat screwdriver and carefully pop out cross over tubes. there is a whole right up on this in multiple places, some one will post it here soon.  

So this isn't my video (because I didn't get any) but this is *exactly* what it looked like when I took the radiator cap off: 

That's not normal. Sorry man.

Head gasket or oil cooler........ Tough luck man sorry to hear it!

So...

 

 

 

I'm fairly convinced that's a failed oil cooler. But I'm not an expert... 

 

The only good thing is this: I've discovered this leak at the very back of the head:
 

 

It's not fuel (though there is a very small seep at the return line that I'm hoping I can fix while everything is apart) and I'm pretty sure it's oil. The other side is clean. My dilemma now is, do I actually pull the head, take it to a machine shop, and order a gasket from Cummins?

I would due to not wanting to pull all of that junk off twice. Although, I'm not sure how many friends it takes to get the head on and off!

That leak looks like the valve cover gasket. You can see the oil staining on top of the exhaust port and draining down to the head/block mating area.

 

Take the oil cooler over to a radiator and see if they can pressure test it for leaks.

 

I'd hold of pulling the head until I knew if the oil cooler was good or bad. 

All I can say is you block won't rust now.

 

I'd hold of pulling the head until I knew if the oil cooler was good or bad.

 

As for the oil cooler I would pressure test it and see where your at for now.

New oil cooler gets here Wed. 

While you have all this stuff apart, it would be a good idea to replace the sealing washers on that return line that comes out of the back of the head. Very simple and cheap to do. When my return line was leaking back there it looked almost exactly like that picture you have. looks a lot like oil but it wasn't on mine. I replaced the sealing washers on that banjo fitting back there and everything is nice and dry now. It was also causing me a hard start issue too. Very common leak spot.

Those are the dual-material ones, right? I wonder if I can get them at the Dodge dealer a couple miles up the road from the house... anybody have the p/n??

Edited March 3, 201510 yr by ronman

I got mine at the local Cummins shop. Unfortunately I don't remember the part number. The ones that I got looked like a metal washer with a rubber coating over them. The old ones that I pulled out were just about nonexistent so I cant tell you what kind they were. Just by changing those little washers made a huge difference for me. Solved a large fuel leak, hard start problem, prime loss, and a bad fuel smell in the cab.