Guys, just put on a steering brace tonight, great mod for me.  I spent about an hour taking my time and torquing everything to spec, as well as greasing other fittings while I was under there.  Took it for a ride and steering is much tighter with less road wander and better feel.  I did swap my steering gear for a reman NAPA back in September, but it already lost that lovin' feelin' - if you know what I mean.  If anyone is interested its a one piece " Big D " brace, and I can give the link to anyone who Pm's me.

 

Here's a pic, one piece 1/4" plate. 

I have never gone by any formulas on fronts it is always by feel, handling and tire wear and the last several sets on both the 02 and 05 like 55 psi the best and I had / have full replacement ranch hand bumpers on each as well. Rear is totally dependent on load 60 empty 75 loaded depending on ambient temps.

 

Just looking at your post again and doing the backward calculation to your stated pressures.

 

Using 3,042 Pound Rating at 80 PSI maximum pressure.

 

55 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.68 * 3,042 = 2,068 * 2 = 4,137 pounds on your front axle

 

60 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.75 * 3,042 = 2,281 * 2 = 4,563 Pounds on your rear axle (empty)

 

75 PSI / 80 PSI = 0.93 * 3,042 = 2,851 * 2 = 5,703 Pounds on the rear axle (loaded)

 

For a total of 8,700 (empty) or 9,840 pounds (loaded).

 

Getting a wee bit heavy aren't we Bill... Of course this is backwards calculating the tire pressure back to weights.

Front is purely set for handling, ride, and tire wear only. Rear is set at a pressure to where I can handle a trailer within means no matter what, because I never know when I may end up with my stock trailer or gooseneck on back at a moments notice for one thing or another and depending on the circumstances may or may not have access to an air compressor when and where I need. I would rather be a bit on the hard and safe side than soft and uncontrollable.

Well I have my steering brace ordered up!! Should see it on Monday or Tuesday. I will post up results once I get it all mounted up. I am still running my 35in tires so we will see how much it helps. I really need to get a new steering gear box and ball joints at some point but I will start with shocks and the brace for now.

Update on yesterdays adventure- So I broke the bolt on the castor adjustment on the lower control arm. I decided that instead of trying to track down bushings and press them in that getting new arms was the best idea for me. And that I better replace both as a set because the passenger side was stuck as well.    Everything was a fight, ended cutting off both forward and rear bolts for the control arm with a sawzall using lenox blades.  Went through pretty easy but not a lot of room under the truck in the garage .  I was able to source both the Castor adjusting bolts from NAPA, Of course 2 different stores (my luck) sold in a kit of 2 bolts, 2 nuts, and 4 castor plates for $32 ( Part # 264-3734 ), as well as new lower control arms for $70.09 each ( Part # 260-5591 ), and 2 replacement bolts for the rearward bolt ( Metric 8.8 16X2X110).  The other options were to get new bushings for around 20-30 each end, but they are press fit, and I didn't feel it was worth my time, not to mention the forward end of the arms were looking a little crusty.  And the local dealer stocked the bolts for 16 each- plus nuts, plus plates. 

 

Now,

I put everything back together and was liberal with the anti-seize inside of the bushing tubes.  I adjusted the castor to about 85% of the max for starters, I will run it to work a few times to let everything settle in, but adjusting the Castor and replacing the arms definitely has helped with the general steering feel of the truck.  The other noteworthy item here, is that the lower bolts are completely frozen in the bushing due to the d shaped bolt design and water and salt infiltration, so the only thing giving on the front suspension is torsion of the rubber, making the ride stiff and unpredictable.    I also rotated the tires and brought the fronts up to 60 from 53, so I'm hoping this will all help to clear this up.  

 

I think I am also going to order the upper arms and bolts as well to see if it helps with the ride.  

 

Hope the part numbers help someone. 

OK, back at this steering again. I finally decided I couldn't live with it wandering all over the place. I got under the truck and adjusted the sector shaft screw until it was tight minus 3/4 turn. Absolutely while new truck- steering feels light, returns to center and drives true to where you point it. Even if it chews up the box, which I doubt it will after seeing how the shafts are set up, I have a lifetime warranty. Otherwise everything on my truck is tight in the front end. I even laid on the garage floor and put my feet on one tire and pushed with my hands on the other while one wheel was on the jack and there was zero play. That was the point I gave the adjustment a try because there were no other options. Brings me to the conclusion that the reman box was set to a random spot and left that way. I'll update if something crazy happens

Now try doing the tire pressures like Wild and Free suggested it will change the way it runs too. Shocking but true.

 I have the " Big D " box brace also. Nice brace, simple strong design, and doesnt hang down as far as others. I have a Red Head box which is great very tight box. My old original steering box just had a small amount of play, but it puked the seal and oil would squirt right out of it

 

I keep air pressure fairly high in front tires because that motor is heavy and I do some real tight windy mountain road driving, about 30 40 psi in rear unloaded BFG KO tires.

Edited March 24, 201510 yr by GSP7

 I have the " Big D " box brace also. Nice brace, simple strong design, and doesnt hang down as far as others. I have a Red Head box which is great very tight box. My old original steering box just had a small amount of play, but it puked the seal and oil would squirt right out of it

 

I keep air pressure fairly high in front tires because that motor is heavy and I do some real tight windy mountain road driving, about 30 40 psi in rear unloaded BFG KO tires.

 

Join the club but I found that excessive pressure in the front promotes the wondering issues. Like scaled weight is 4,400 in the front.

 

4400 / 2 = 2200 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57.8 (58 PSI). The only change I've done is drop 5 PSI from the math to 53 PSI.

I want to change my fronts to a lower setting but I think I'll keep them at 60 or so during my long camper tow coming up.

Scale your axles loaded with the RV. Like my front axle is about same with the RV. So I can keep the same pressures empty or loaded. So this is a good reason to check axle weight empty and loaded then you can math out what you need for tire pressures.

The PS gear uses a tapered bearing, so if the overcenter adjustment isn't correct, then you'll have play in the pitman shaft.  Installing a steering box stabilizer will remove that slop, as will adjusting the box like it was.  I have mine adjusted correctly, and still opted to install one as I hit some pretty crappy road and a little more than optimal speed.

 

As a side note, adjusting the box also fixed the Pitman shaft leak.

 

 

My steering wheel locks. 

 

EDIT: welllllll, I guess there was more then one page lol

So I have a couple 1000 miles trips on the truck since I installed the steering box brace. All I can say is WOW!! It made all the difference for me on the freeway actually. Now when I hit a bridge approach at 70 the steering wheel doesnt jump out of my hands and almost put us into the wall. Very nice improvement overall.

 

This is the one I went with, not a name brand but still seems like a good quality product. And its all made here in the US of A too!

 

http://www.dodgeramsteeringstabilizer.com/

Looks like good heavy quality. Now, I wish they made one for my first gen because the steering box mounting bracket has broken twice on mine.It is a common problem with first gens. Metal fatigue I guess. So I had this last one reinforced by a certified welder but now you can see the frame it's is flexing instead.

My second gen benefited from the steering stabilizer as well. Put on before any fatigue showed up in the future.

My steering wheel does not lock . I like that.

 

My old 81 cheby 4x4 the steering locks. hate that. Plus, when you have to pull the steering wheel that lock plate is a pain in the arse

Youngblood, that's the same brace I bought and I like it too. Love the simple 1 piece design, and that it won't rot inside like the box tube ones might. I just pulled my 5th wheel to Florida and I thought the truck was pretty stable, except when being passed by other vehicles, even cars at times. I'm going to tighten up the box a little bit more before I head home and see if that helps.

Edited March 29, 201510 yr by AGPTurbo