Hey gang been a while .... so busy lately....

Started today .... I've had ABS light for a while .... finally got around to changing both wheel hubs out a few weeks back .... no difference. Rear sensor seems clean.

today speedo stopped ......

How to track down ;)

The color diagram is too big for the page.

 

2002-Dodge-Cummins-ABS.pdf

Honestly not sure what to do with that .... wires 1 and 8 ...... problem is still chasing further into cab ......

Hua?

 

 

Honestly not sure what to do with that .... wires 1 and 8 ...... problem is still chasing further into cab ......

 

Wires 1 and 8 only go to the ABS controller. That's it. After the ABS controller its all CCD Network.

 

So you mean I can try and ohm back from abs controller .... only real wire ?

Which pins ?

OK John...

 

Using the wiring diagram above...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9846-01-dodge-speedo-doa/page-3#entry109062

 

I ohm tested my truck. Now just pulling the connector from ABS controller and probing the plug (Red/Violet & White/Violet)

 

With sensor hooked up ----------------------- 1,838 ohms

Without sensor hooked up and shorted ---- 0.006 ohms

 

Re do your test.

Sent you a PM.

 

Im not sure what the other test is ...... but basically

 

Remove left side ABS controller. 

Pin out the top right and bottom right pins with multimeter = 1.9k ohms ....... Im assuming the pin locations are the same for an 2000 ........

Thx for call and dumbing it down .....

I shorted the circuit at rear .... measuring 0.008 or basically 0 also

So both measurements same as yours .....

Will work on pulling the rear diff and servicing as well as the ABS and report back.

So the wire and the sensor are both good. So that leads down the path of a bad ABS controller. So time to hit up someone with a Dodge truck and do some bench testing.

2 steps backward .... 1 forward

Got the abs rebuilt .... But I busted a bolt off into pump block due to rusted.

Drilled it out and started rethread .... then the tap busted and it's hardened steel... can't drill it out with bits I have.

so unless anyone has any ideas on getting busted thread tap out ..... think I'm going to have to buy a abs pump.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t430/fakdaddy/truck/20150413_083946.jpg

Most taps are made brittle enough so that you can break them up by hitting them with a punch and hammer if they break off like that, in my experience it doesn't always work out that well but could be worth a shot.

Edited April 14, 201510 yr by bjytech

Is there any liquid flow between the bottom of the ABS controller and the top of the pump ..... basically those studs that you see for controlling each line.

Reason is I have two good holes .... would that be enough to hold in place ... or need all four to help hold properly .... just unsure how that abs stud mechanism works exactly

  It don't look like you were using any tapping oil of any sort. Also it looks like you attempted to tap in a single pass. Usually tapping is a in and out process cutting a little and cleaning your tap of cuttings to prevent binding. Smaller taps tend to break rather easy.

Take the pump block off and bring it in to a machine shop, let them do it. They have the experience and the tools to get it out and re due the hole threads. When you get it back reinstall and bled the brake system.

Edited April 14, 201510 yr by IBMobile

It don't look like you were using any tapping oil of any sort. Also it looks like you attempted to tap in a single pass. Usually tapping is a in and out process cutting a little and cleaning your tap of cuttings to prevent binding. Smaller taps tend to break rather easy.

Correct on most of this .... didn't know although tried to be careful

Take the pump block off and bring it in to a machine shop, let them do it. They have the experience and the tools to get it out and re due the hole threads. When you get it back reinstall and bled the brake system.

I can get a used pump for $100 .... think this is cheaper option ...... i had thought the same too ....

That's a good option and keep the old one as a spare.  The machine shop labor should be about ½ hour, $30-$60.  

I had luck before tack welding and built it up to where I can put vice grips on and spin things out that way, and while it's hot usually comes out.

If I had time on my side I would consider making a removal tool out of the broken tap. Take notice there is four hollow gaps along the broken part of the tap in the housing. Now carefully mill out the center of the old tap till you have two pins basically to fit into the hollow gap in the broken piece. Before going on I would blow out all debris, lube and heat the part. Now carefully attempt to spin it out broken piece of tap.
 

 

I can get a used pump for $100 .... think this is cheaper option ...... i had thought the same too ....

 

But that's much easier...