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Teardown and Rebuild

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Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

7168E6BE-46F5-484E-A46E-6623D3EE87A9_zps

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    • TFaoro
      TFaoro

      All done

    • TFaoro
      TFaoro

      IT RUNS!!!!! Video coming later. Barely any smoke, surprisingly.   This thing runs soooooo smooth. I only ran it for five minutes (Per Hamilton instructions.) But it's nice to know it's running and

    • TFaoro
      TFaoro

      That would look cool! Too bad I live in Colorado.... Epoxy Primer Bed Liner

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    • Author

    Will do. What about the boost elbow setting??

    All of this "testing" is destroying my fuel mileage :shifty: At least it's not my DD anymore!

    Don't look at fuel mileage while tuning :-)

    So the boost elbow closed is routing more air thru the secondary turbine which is why it's working harder and the primary is making less boost. The pressure ratios are much closer and the primary is in a better ratio. P: 2.6:1 S: 2.3:1

    IMHO you are just going to have higher drive pressure based on the turbine sizes, cam, and overall exhaust flow from all that fuel; however the difference is only 0.05:1 between the two WG settings so I would leave it with the secondary working harder and accept the 5 psi more drive on WOT high rpm runs. 

    We can, hopefully, tweak the DP with timing thou. 

    • Like 1
    • 3 weeks later...
    • Author

    Someone please help my find this oil leak. It's literally driving me INSANE!!!! Driver side where the outside edge of the block meets the bell housing adapter. I know it's not coming from the top end as everything dry above the bottom of the block. The pan gasket looks sealed as well so I'm at a loss.

    IMG_20160206_232842600_zpse3mk4clb.jpg

    IMG_20160206_232834335_zpsjqffyjwz.jpg

    IMG_20160206_232827714_zpsexweljob.jpg

    Is it coming from the inside of the bell housing? 

    • Owner

    I've seen a TSB about using a bead of silicone sealant for the rear part of the pan. Did you use a sealant on the oil pan gasket? A light color block paint would of help seeing the path of othe oil leak. I think I've mention this before...:whistle2:

    Edited by Mopar1973Man

    • Author
    17 minutes ago, CSM said:

    Is it coming from the inside of the bell housing? 

    No, you can see where it originates from just below the starter area.

    16 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    I've seen a TSB about using a bead of silicone sealant for the rear part of the pan. Did you use a sealant on the oil pan gasket? A light color block paint would of help seeing the path of othe oil leak. I think I've mention this before...:whistle2:

    :shifty: No I didn't use any sealant. I'm going to be pissed if I have to drip this pan :ahhh:

    I've got some daylight now so it'll be easier to see back in there. Even with the paint it's actually pretty easy to see most places :thumbup2: 

    Here's the pics again so people don't have to flip back and forth.

    IMG_20160206_232842600_zpse3mk4clb.jpg

    IMG_20160206_232834335_zpsjqffyjwz.jpg

    IMG_20160206_232827714_zpsexweljob.jpg

    Edited by TFaoro

    • Like 1

    You really only have two options in that area.  Your rear main or the oil pan.  I would pull the starter and make sure the bell housing is clean, then ignore the oil pan leak til summer. :whistle:

    • Author

    CRAP!!!!!! At least I have a lift to work on now. It's dry as a bone on the inside of the bell housing. 

    I dorked up my front diff housing when I did it. I was a little stingy with the RTV.  I had a tiny channel that formed when I torqued it up.  I had to redo it and lost over a gallon of mobil 1 oil. 

    • Author

    I'll be losing 3 gallons of full synthetic and have to figure how the F to get the pan out with the motor in.... ah hell might as well pull the whole thing out again!!!!!

    My truck 2 years ago had a slight leak at the back of the oil pan and it looked very similar to your condition. 

    I loosened all of the oil pan bolts during one of my oil changes and then re-torqued all of the pan bolts back to (18ft/lb) per the factory sequence. I then drove the truck for a couple hundred miles and upon inspection there was no visible leak at the pan. However to be on the safe side I re-torqued all of the pan bolts per sequence again at (18.5ft/lb) to ensure a good seal.  It has been 15k since re-torque of the pan bolts and so far the leak has not returned. 

    • Like 3
    1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

    I'll be losing 3 gallons of full synthetic and have to figure how the F to get the pan out with the motor in.... ah hell might as well pull the whole thing out again!!!!!

    Loosen the motor mounts and hoist the motor up a little bit. That's what I did when I replaced the pan gasket...and it still leaks! Stupid cross member!

    • Like 1
    • Author

    I've got a vibration... Is there any way to differentiate it between the Tcase and Transmission?

    Wasn't there a post on here with a picture showing that someone cut out the cross member to drop the oil pan.  After the job was done they bolted the cross member back in there?  C'mon, sounds like a great addition to the article to the data base!! :thumbup2:

    2 hours ago, TFaoro said:

    I've got a vibration... Is there any way to differentiate it between the Tcase and Transmission?

    Um....   mabe take the driveshafts off and get under there with a buddy running it.  Bring a stethoscope.  

    How's the tailshaft bushing?

    Edited by CSM

    • Owner
    20 hours ago, TFaoro said:

    I'll be losing 3 gallons of full synthetic and have to figure how the F to get the pan out with the motor in.... ah hell might as well pull the whole thing out again!!!!!

    If it was standard petroleum it wouldn't matter just do an oil change... :whistle2:

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    • Like 1
    • Author
    55 minutes ago, CSM said:

    Um....   mabe take the driveshafts off and get under there with a buddy running it.  Bring a stethoscope.  

    How's the tailshaft bushing?

    Very little movement. I would think it would start throwing oil out the back if the bushing was bad enough to make it vibrate.

    The vibrating is so weird... 80 and higher it vibrates while in gear under any load or no load. Pop it out of gear and the vibration stops.

    70-75 it vibrates some while in gear and under load but if you take it out of gear the vibration gets worse.

    46 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    If it was standard petroleum it wouldn't matter just do an oil change... :whistle2:

    Too much power, heat, cold, and a bunch of other excuses I can't think of right now :lol: 

    Vibration sounds like something axle/suspension related... something is binding be it a pinion bearing, axle bearing, ?? And when you unload it it vibrates.  

    Not saying it can't be trans... but that would be pretty weird. If you're sure it's trans, then start looking for shavings in the oil.  Nothing in there moves that much without cutting stuff. 

    • Owner
    1 hour ago, TFaoro said:

    Too much power, heat, cold, and a bunch of other excuses I can't think of right now :lol:

    Now its a oil with the expense of full synthetic you got to dump because of a leak. Just like all synthetic oil users they won't let go of that expensive oil even when they need to. :rolleyes: So you got the choice of living with the leak and constantly adding oil to the engine (adding up cost) or dump the entire thing and fix the oil leak (another expensive oil change). Bad idea is trying to capture and reuse the oil. Too much risk in falling debris landing in your catch bucket/pan.

    Edited by Mopar1973Man

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