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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/25/2012 in all areas

  1. I have spent the past 2 days of my weekend replacing my severly cracked dash and a leaky heater core. In the process I also replaced my ac evap core. My heat had gotten to the point of the only way to regulate it was thru the windows. By that I mean the heat on full blast and opening a window when it got to warm, which was not to often since hy heater was not putting out alot anyway. I installed a new core and the Heater Treater part I heard so much about. The oe part for the blend door was broken and I am glad I had it on hand.I bought a replacement dash from LMC. The color match was spot on. The fit was very good. It was a fairly straight forward replacement. 90% of the screws were not to difficult to install, but the other 10% were a challenge. I used Mike's article for the HVAC rebuild for most of the work, but got a little inventive on doing both the HVAC work and the dash installl. I have pictures and will try and write it up in the near future as to what I experianced while doing both. I will say that the time frame posted for these were exceded by quite abit and if you attempt either one allow some extra time. Since this was my first time taking a dash apart of any kind, the unknown mutiplied the time frame that I needed.I would also like to add that I would never had even attempted something like this had it not been for this forum. The members here give so much confidence and info I feel notthing is impossible. Thanks guys.
  2. 1 point
    Tone Ring Mod............Just a way to "advance" the engine timing mechanically. If you've read any of my posts/threads about my Smarty, I can't run any "timing" via the Smarty or I'll get timing rattle. The tone ring sits behind the engine dampner on the front of the crank. Fuel Tank Vent Mod..........This was the first mod I did to my truck, and the I love the most. It's a mod to move the fuel tank vent so you can get more diesel in the tank. Dodge uses the same tank for gas and diesel trucks. Gas truck fuel tanks need an area above the liquid fuel line in a full tank for expansion and for vapors. Diesel expands and doesn't vaporize anywhere near as fast a gasoline, so it's a way to get more fuel in the tank. Before the mod, I'd fill up with about 28gallons when the "distance to empty" on the "lie-O-meter" read 0. Now I fillup with 31-32+ gallons when it hits around 0. Fram Boost 2 Intake.......Just a "rebadged" AEM Brute Force intake system. Won the thing in an internet raffle!! I've just changed back to the OEM intake system because the rubber on the filter part of the Fram system was starting to dry rot. In 20/20 hindsight, I should've kept the OEM intake system from the start. It's good to almost 500 HP. Does that help??
  3. my connections started weeping just by taking the lines off a couple times for maintenance on things. i used the green scotch pads (no metal) on the crossover tubes and the line ends and put new orings on the crossover tubes (dry) and weeping went away. the threads dont seal the holes, they create pressure on the seating faces of the connections. the orings are what does the sealing of the return fuel out of the injector and if there is weeping, its one of 3 things, bad oring or not properly torqued or damaged seating faces on the injector line or crossover tube.
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