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"FUEL tank" progress and stuff in a booth!

I think the wires that you are referring to are for the fuel heater and water-in-fuel sensor. You may set a code if they are disconnected, but I don't think it will affect driveability. I think you are on track with verifying good electrical connections between the battery, the ECM, and the PSG on the VP44. "Volt Drop" + "Injection Pump Battery Voltage" seems to equal 14.00 volts, give or take a couple of hundredths on your graph of over 800 reading covering a 10 minute span. On some readings where the voltage is low (10.9 for example) adding the "Volt Drop" doesn't bring it to the 14.00 volt value. This could be because there is a split second recording delay from one reading to the other. I have a scanner, but I don't know if it will display voltage at the injection pump. I will give it a test tomorrow. John

APPS (accelerator pedal position sensor) on the Cummins. When the APPS becomes output signal becomes intermittent as it ages, a specific code is usually set and the engine typically goes right to idle - referred to as "dead pedal". The dead pedal lasts for about 10 seconds or so, then goes back to normal until the next event. The photo below is from one of your earlier posts. I would be specifically concerned with re-checking the voltage to the injection pump. Voltage falling down to 9.5 volts could easily cause intermittent operation of the fuel solenoid valve in the injection pump resulting in random injection events not happening. This does match your symptoms. John John

My cruise control light was always staying on, but the fly-by-wire cruise didn't work. After much problem solving, I finally took the 2001.5 Ram 2500 6 speed diesel to the dealer. Trust me, it wasn't my first choice. Anyway, they told me that the PCM didn't know that I ever had a cruise control equipped truck. The tech claimed that part of the PCM hard drive was dead. The dealership ordered a PCM, but somewhere along the line there was a mistake and they received a PCM for an automatic transmission. They didn't install it. Instead, I ordered a PCM from NAPA for about $450. The PCM came in and the dealership agreed to install it, labor free, since they'd screwed up so many times previously. So, they installed it. Then I got a call saying they still couldn't get the cruise to respond and had determined it was the instrument cluster. Cha-ching! The dealership tells me they can get a new cluster for $790 plus core deposit. I decided I'd buy from O'Reilly who wanted $330 plus core deposit. Well, it was supposed to take a month to get the part from O'Reilly. Nope. A month later they can't get the part, and they tell me that they might be able to get it if I wait another 4 months. So, I gave up and told the dealership to order their $790 dollar part. Three days later (yesterday) they get the part and try to install it. Tech calls me up, "The part that came in is Canadian, and I can't install a Canadian cluster into your Dodge." I assume it was due to KMH instead of MPH. Anyway, I've had it at this point, so I told the guy I just wanted my truck back, and that I will never be back. Guy ordered (or coincidentally received) the wrong PCM AND the wrong cluster. He seems entirely incompetent. After 3 months and almost $1000 nothing has changed on my truck, the cruise light is still on (always) and doesn't work! In case you're wondering, the cluster does not throw any codes when tested. I wish I wasn't so dense in this area. Can the cluster really be the issue? Can I get one from a junkyard? Should I keep trying to find a new one somewhere, or can someone just fix the one that I have? Should I put pressure on the dealership to get back some of the money I squandered with them? Thanks for all of the advice!