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On September 6, 2016, I wrote the article "Adding inline power steering filter with system flush" and posted it in 24 valve 2ed generation/Axles, Suspension & Brakes. This is the follow up to that article. Update...7/25/2025 It has been 8years 9months and 44,888 miles since I installed the Magnefine filter and flushed the power steering system, so it was time to flush the power steering fluid and replace the filter again. I used an oil syringe fluid evacuator pump this time to remove and refill the fluid at the power steering pump. The picture below shows the first time the fluid was removed from the system It took 5 remove, refill, and run engine for 4secounds to get the fluid to this clear color, about 2qts. Here is the filter cut open. It looks like the filter could last 60,000+ miles before changing. There was just a fine film on the magnet.

That is good news. I didn't catch this on my first read. That would definitely be a contributor to "death wobble". John

:) I actually ordered blue silicone... 22mm I.D. as well as painted several metal components blue. After I got the hose off, it appeared to be silicone jacketed with something rubber, orange interior.... Reman RotoMaster HX35w should be delivered on Friday. Should be back up and running by end of day Saturday.... then the testing starts all over with hopefully NO oil consumption.

Hello, I took the vehicle, and so far, no problems have recurred. This is a crazy story... I'm so happy that my vehicle is working normally again.... Miracle.... Thank you very much for your help.....

Yes. Anything to prevent oxidation from happening.

Got both turbos removed today and will be taking them in to get resealed while I figure out new drain lines. While I was in there I cleaned all the grounds and inspected the harness on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They all looked good except the one on the PCM had a little touch of green on the wire so I will most likely replace that one. I’m also unplugging and plugging all the connections as well. Would it be a good idea to smear some dielectric grease on the grounds? I did check a few on the other side before I ran out of steam. I off work this week so I will get out there again later.

I just uploaded the service manual for the HX35/40 Holset turbo... I used it for likely trouble shooting my turbo... though ultimately I couldn't get my turbo apart to look at the one item that I questioned... didn't want to damage mine which is going back as a CORE... I hate it... otherwise it is still quite tight for a 450k mile turbo... I think my failure was Piston Ring Seal, Turbine (number 13 on the schematic). Guessing that the soot from the break in period is what got me... Replacing my turbo with this one from Thoroughbred diesel. Was the best price/quality I could find. https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/h8350108r/ Some additional information, it definitely was heater hose 7/8" OR 22 mm I.D. I actually ordered a foot from amazon because I wanted to replace the oily section... not sure why it was oily but I took it ALL out cleaned it up and painting it all flat black.

Hello every body, I finally found the problem after 5 months... While disassembling the injection pump again, I wanted to check the condition of the long intake gasket... It was completely broken... I replaced it, put everything back together, and started it up... Incredibly, everything was back to normal... I told myself that if that doesn't work, I'll tackle the gearbox converter... Phew, less work, because a gearbox takes a long time to remove...

Sadly if it's not leaking on the ground it leaking internally and being burnt as fuel. Vacuum pump would leak on the ground Front / rear crank seal would leak on theme ground Tappet cover would leak on the ground. Valve cover would leak on the ground. Valve seals yup it would be burnt as fuel and only be seen after the engine sat all night and Valve stems would be wet with engine oil. Piston rings yup could burn the oil as fuel too but blow by would be noticed typically. There is one case here from @jlwelding that had a cracked piston that past blow by test. Only proper way to test is a compression test. Lower compression would point that out.

REMEMBER do NOT remove all the paint from a ground location. With both of us here in Idaho salt off the highway will make the matel rust and fail for the ground. Make all bare metal is painted before reattach the ground. Really sucks that you find the wire just hanging from rusted chunk of metal.

I did find one loose ground wire that was covered in crud, cleaned and tightened to no avail. I need to pull my big turbo off to get it resealed and remove my inter cooler and piping to clean them out so I may as well start that and get a better look at the rest of the harness while I’m at it.

More good news, just got my Quad module back from testing and it’s toast. There’s $800 I don’t have. I can’t wait to see how the truck runs on stock tuning with all the other mods if I ever get this ecm issue sorted out. My S475 is being rebuilt and they at least verified it was due to the drain hose not flowing well enough. The S357 they said was fine and needed nothing. That’s still $500 for the rebuild and $200 for new drain lines plus whatever having the ecm rebuilt a second time will run me. 🫣. The last 10 trouble free years of operation are all catching up to me.