Mopar1973Man

Love it. You are going to find the answer now that you have a nose for what you are looking for!

OMG! I love the new Omada Controller software—way more information about your entire network and the usage. The Current version I'm running is. Omada_Controller_v6.1.0.19_linux_x64.deb The new version of the software now lists things like interference of signal. There is much more diagnostic information brought back from the Gateway (firewall), Controller, and even the WiFi heads. WiFi stability is way better now than even 2 years ago since I built the dedicated server for all the network stuff to run on. Comunications here are nearly flawless. The family here enjoy the high speed WiFi (6 GHz) with connection speeds as high as 2 GBits per second. The two workstation PCs have been running full tilt at times, doing large downloads and even other devices like Pandora on my TV, still playing smoothly without buffering or stopping. The Gateway, the smaller box, is set up to check every 1 minute to see what the signal ping rate is on the entire network, so it throttles up downloads, a few nights ago, I was rebuilding a XBox to play, but has drive issues. The entire game of Ark requires 155 GB of files to download, which was done on 2 Xboxes downloading the same game at the same time. The network gave 100 ot 120 Mbps of speed to both Xboxes without dropping TV or music channels playing.

Your subscription is worth it, right? 😁 Good, at least you have the knowledge to do a scientific study to figure out what your transmission is like for fluids. Remember, this is a temporary weather issue, but you can make a better choice of fluids for your transmission. When we modify these trucks for more power, more torque, more towing abilities, there is going to be a forced change of fluids that fit the new design. Like my example of the manual transmission, I was seeing extremely high transmission temperatures on 75w-80 SynTorq Fluid back in the day, this became to thin and cause my damages. Now with thicker fluid to cling to the gear and not easily spun off the gearface so there is something between the gear face protecting the gears from touching. This is a known issue for G56 (manual 6 spd) for using ATF+4 in my 2006 G56 transmission. Yeah, that will be another fluid I'll even change and upgrade too. Again, I've increased power on Thor, and you need better protection or the transmission will wear! Point I'm making once you leave the stock power realm start researching your lubricants. Don't just settle for Redline or AMSOil synthetic because of the brand name. Also look at the temperatures you operate at what is your power increase over stock. Just consider true 1/4 mile trucks don't run just 80w-90 in the axles because its too thin. I've seen some professional trucks running 250 wt in the axles. Just consider factory 85w-140 for limited slip axles factory setup. Again needs friction modifier too. Keep the axle clutches from ratcheting. You are right about this being real too. There was a flash update for the PCM to correct for this in stock form for the most part. I'm missing that TSB from the article database and will have to hunt it down. His I think is a bit deeper issue with viscosity being more the issue.

Just a quick search on Google AI turned up... There is your thicker fluid that needs a bit more time to warm up in cold climate. Might look at the specifications sheets of different fluids and them figure out which fluid is better based on "kinematic viscosity" scores.

Beast has developed a problem with the hydrobooster being the main booster piston; the seal failed, and even brake pedal usage was leaking hydraulic fluid from the hydrobooster. There is a bleed hole on the bottom of the unit. This was just replaced, as the article was created in the 2nd Gen brake and axle category. That particular day, I was wearing my black hair and basic black makeup. Then on Thor, it was a matter of replacing the battery terminals. Using the really basic tools I do have after the landslide its rather challenging to do some jobs because you just don't have the right tool and needs to be done. All the factory lead terminals were cut off with a dull hacksaw. Then trimmed back to find copper wire. Clean any corrosion off the wire before crushing copper lugs to the wire. Improved the starting and power stability for this truck since the passenger cable was held on with a C-clamp. That day, I was enjoying my red hair and flame colored eyes. Some of you wonder why still. The makeup work of Titanium becomes a line in the sand for me for protection for myself. Knowing my ostomy bag is there, I must keep my bag area and my hands clean. My dress code limits me from rolling in the mud or dirt to do work. Remember, the landslide took my shop and the dry space I had. The last 2 days here have been raining so no work was done last two days because of zero dry space to work. I'm going to continue to produce as many articles as I can with my limitations. You have to remember my right kidney is only 17% remaining and my left is 82% remaining.

Not a prob.

ATF+4 is typically used with factory transmissions for the fact it has a lot of friction modifier which makes the clutches and bands slip for the soft shifts. Dextron/Mercon typically does not have the heavy amount of friction modifier so there is a sudden grab of clutches. Stalling issues till the ATF thins out some. Manual Transmission Tidbit... Here is what I know even manuals. Since I went up in power (500 HP) I wanted better cling to the gears so went from 75W-80 to 50 SAE which is actually 90wt gear lube. It stopped wear on hard facing of the gears. So in your case you need to find a fluid that keeps up in high temperature (protecting clutches and gears) then to have cold weather characteristics that flow good to prevent stalling. Brands and different blends of friction modifier might help. That's the tough part enough slip not to stall but sticky enough not burn bands and clutches.

You can tear all of that out. Firewall mat and cowl included. Bad idea from the factory being it dumps all the dust into the engine every time the valve cover comes off. No need to replace.

Consider doing a compression test. This will show the piston rings issues quickly. On gas engine we would add squirt of oil in each cylinder it would produce higher compression score that notes bad rings. Im not sure anyone could do it with 24V hole and not drop the oil in the bowl of the piston.

Thor now has a full set of military terminals, and the copper lugs are all crushed on. Sadly, my crimping tool is not designed for large copper lugs like 2/0 and 0 AWG wire sizes, so it pinched the copper on one side, but still made a solid lugs. Improved starting performance, it spins over stronger now. I no longer see power fluctuations like before. There is a few thing I'm going to do is reroute the positive lead for the TIPM so its no longer hanging up the fuse box cover. Driver Side battery Passenger Side Battery

Could you grab a live data tool and check the IAT temperature with the ECT temperature and see if it a real temperature issue or not (electrical problem maybe?) As for the engine not shutting off there is some sort of electrical issues that is keeping the ignition up. I can say if there is a Quadzilla tuner on board and you happened to jump start your dead battery you could of shorted out the Quadzilla, and the engine will not shut off till you unplug the Quadzilla tuner.

You're basically covering up a piston ring(s) issue, typically or bad tuning. Why? Well, normally, these trucks will not produce excessive crankcase pressure or blowby gases. Now, someone who runs worn injectors, then your timing could be advanced by the weaker springs in the injectors. Now, you're creating this extra blow by. might see more slobber of oil out of the crankcase vent (gear case vent). I suggest keeping injectors changed out at 100k miles. After that point your rolling the dice. For every 10 bar of pop pressure loss is about 1 degree of advancement. If your injectors haven't been changed in over 100k miles, I'd start there. Yea,h sadly, the only reason I know to add more vent/filter to the valve cover is that the factory breather is not keeping up because of the vacuum line disconnected (added pressure from the vacuum pump), poor rings on the pistons, worn injectors with low pop pressure (less than 293 bar). Now, like Thor, I have a bad ring in Thor, and Thor starts and runs, but the exhaust is white smoke from the low compression, and there is extra crankcase pressure on Thor from the blowby, and the blowby isn't bad, but still it would help to have an extra vent at that point, but... Better to fix the problem. Yeah, I've got plans to rebuild that 2006 in the future. First problem, I need a shop to work in once again. Another trick is you could create a vent pipe to keep the slobbering down some. Remember, this will not fix excessive blow-by.

I show up... The member who pops up in this type of stalling issue is @pepsi71ocean he had a DTT transmission built and had a similar issue with stalling. It turns out that the torque converter is too low of a stall with the temperatures. If your valve body has the mod done to pump in park, it would help with warming the fluid up, making it a bit thinner before you shift into Drive or Reverse. The problem is that the fluid is thick and cold, and the low stall converters don't do well in cold climates at all. Basically, the best choice is to set the parking brake and put the transmission in Neutral to get the pump flowing. As the pump is flowing, you have the heat exchanger on the passenger side, which should bring warmth to the fluid faster. Give that a shot and see if that helps out.

When you find the magic timing on the Quadzilla it should make it hard to warm up just got to add more miles till warmed up.