Mopar1973Man

Tip for next time: leave the thermostat out of the head till the coolant is full to that point. Install the thermostat and top off with more 50/50 mix coolant. 200℉ is not bad for oil temperature, but was the block temperature hotter? Could you do a write up for the brake lines if possible? I'll make it worth your while. 200℉ Thermostat. So you are going for the higher temperature as well. Let me know how its working for you. I'm still running my Gates 200℉ and no issues to report. Excellent heat in the wintertime and excellent idle performance after extended idle times, it might get a bit smoky the first day till it fully warms up. I'm still running so efficiently that idle will not even warm up the block to even close to open the thermostat (Coolant temps 155℉ to 170℉ and outside temp of barely 35℉)

Wound up delaying the install, finding out the wiring map supplied by Mopar FSM is actually incorrect for some of the battery gauge sizes the 3rd Generation truck are actually 2/0 AWG cable not the stated 0 AWG. Lost most of my warm part of the day going back to get the right rings for this project.

That's so true. Back in the 1990s, I had a long ponytail I kept for many years. Then, after getting stuck under a truck (Beast), I cut the tail off mostly. I kept a shorter version for a long time, too. Then got snagged under a truck again. I chopped it off completely about 2 years before my cancer. Then cancer made me bald. The wigs and colored hair just became fun for me, since I was bald and sick from the chemo. Now I've gotten my hair back, but I can't dye bright colors or even bleach it out because my hair falls out from chemical exposure. I became a master of wearing wigs and having a colorful style after a doctor told me my life could be shortened if the cancer spreads. At that point, I didn't care what the world thought; it was my way of handling a very stressful moment in time, and do it with a Gothic style flair.

Today I'm going to get myself together and get out and do the battery terminals on Thor. Yeah, it's a cold start here this morning. It's going to be a warmer day heading into the mid 50's at least. I want to get the new battery terminal and copper lugs installed today. I figured I would check over the website. @yohon and his rebuild, and helping out where I can. Every day can be a battle for me. I love what I can do, but my body tells me all about it when I try too hard. This is the depressing part for me, doing simple things, but still have to keep my hands clean, so if I have to touch my ostomy bag. (infection risk) This is part of the risk that the other categories will be added to the site. Remember, I'm working in the mud at this point, and certain jobs I just CANNOT do, such as the ostomy bag and infection risk. Those days I cannot work outside on vehicles. I got to have something else to do, so I brought the Computer knowledge to the table and then the fun side of my makeup artistry, which has blown up to +780 followers on TikTok. I'm trying to move more back to my website. Again, I lose ownership of my video and photos when posted on other websites. I own my own webspace, use it! I'm still the same guy who knows tons about the Cummins trucks, but I cannot do the wrench work at a commercial level any longer. I still want to help people, just with the whole loss of my shop and nowhere to even work on my own stuff makes it super rough. This is why posting slowed down for me was depressing to want to build an article, but have no shop and cold weather, and mud to work in. Those days I tend to just stay in and practice my makeup artistry, which today I'm going to do red for another purpose, but I need some photos. Then, since my wife told me to build us a business-class network, I did, and I've learned so much about the Linux operating system and the networking equipment. Amazing to have internet quality tha blow most away! I want to share what I have left. The Titanium and Cloud 10 Computers are open to messages for registered users (unpaid). Please don't post diesel questions in these areas, we will delete those posts.

The overheating is not good on a fresh rebuild, as it expands all the parts during the overheat. Strange to see a Cummins overheat without a fan. I ran several winters without a fan clutch and fan assembly. Might be the call for a full inspection of all thebrake lines. You might hunt around; there are a few here that have replaced with stainless steel brake lines and are using all premade brake lines. Opps. Yeah, we all make weird mistakes. The The NAPA 375-190 thermostat has treated me well. I typically always put a fresh thermostat in with fresh coolant. When you are changing coolant every 60k to 70k roughly, so your additive package doesn't degrade. (pH stabilizer, etc.)

Purchasing a replacement hydrobooster the right way!Beast lost his hydrobooster while my wife and I were down in Boise. While I was down in Boise, I made the call and got a hydrobooster ordered, thinking just direct replacement. Nope! Removal and InstallationSo to remove the hydrobooster your going to need a few tools. Take a 15mm socket deep well and remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the hydrobooster. Now carefully capture the rubber seal in the back of the master cylinder too. Pull the master cylinder forward just enough to allow the hydrobooster out. Now remove the 3 pressure lines with a open end 18mm wrench and move those out of the way. The return hose is a spring clamp and just squeeze the clamp and slide back. Pull the hose off. Last step out here to pull the batteries so the brake lights are not burning. Now under the dash locate the rod from the hydrobooster and remive the clip on the pedal pin. This might be a bit tricky but it has tab that laps over the pin to lock and you need to lightly flex it up and over the pin whil pulling the tab. Capture the flat washer on the pin. Noe up in the dash there is 15mm nuts hold the hydrobooster in place deep well sockets are required. The top right hand nut you need to come in from the top there is a passage hole for the socket to fit through. At this point you should be able to remove the hydrobooster carefully. Reassemble in reverse. Just remember to put the fresh o-rings on your pressure hoses so it sealed properly. Be aware...The documents in the box from NAPA are very clear; you need to swap parts from your old unit to make the new unit work. The shaft that pushes the master cylinder, you might have to swap as I did. The new shaft was 10mm too long, which is the brake dragging issue. Then the rubber boot on the input shaft has be pryed off the input shaft collar. Yea! I got that. Then, the adapter plate that mounts the brake reservoir / master cylinder. Rubber boot that goes on the input rod. Approximate length of the rod installed in the new hydrobooster. The master cylinder adapter so the master cylinder will mount! Adapter all on and tight. As for changing the rod that is done by flipping the armed washer like a freeze plug and then work the two arms out of the groove. WARNING: Flying part hazard. The armed washer and the spring will fly so be careful and aware! View full Cummins article

Like whats up with it? What kind of problems?

I know there is the standard app that you can click on the menu, but I tend to like to do all at once kind of mode. #!/bin/bash sudo apt-get update sudo apt-get -y upgrade sudo apt-get -y autoclean sudo apt-get -y autoremoveThis simple script paste into a text editor like Gedit. Then save this file as "upgrade.sh" without the quotes preferred to save in a like a script folder. Now in terminal, go to your script folder. Example... cd /home/michael/scriptsThen you would run your script by... sh upgrade.shThis should have your Ubuntu going out to the internet to grab a new copy of the software database and check to see what is new, which is the update option. Next, the upgrade option is used, and the -y switch forces the answer "yes" to upgrading all files. Then it will download all files required, and still under this command, it will install all upgrades to all software on your Linux PC. The autoclean option will search for files no longer being used and automatically remove them, like old installation scripts. The autoremove hunts down the out-of-date files no longer used and removes the rest. This keeps your system clean! No more are the days of should I delete these .dll files on Windows just to find out you just nuked the entire system and had to rebuild. Then the whole upgrade Microsoft separately from your 3rd party programs because it's a commercial platform so all your 3rd party software you have hunt down. Nope, that is over two being that all Linux software is available typically free and covering many platforms. (Debian, Red Hat, etc.)

Have you ran the methanol injection yet? I'm really curious on how that works for you.

For all of you who have bad terminals, as I do on Thor. They have been over-tightened too much; the lead terminal is completely torn up and just cannot get them tight. This is typically because people overclean and cut away too much lead out of the center of the terminal, making them too big, or they never got shoved all the way down the terminal and are now too small. I've got the military terminal here, and copper lugs for the cables. Here is what I have currently just to keep the truck running. Extremely sad method, but it works for right now. Passenger side battery. Look at the ground cable held in place by a c-clamp because the bolt is rotten and seized up the nut the lead won't hold the terminal correctly. Then look at the driver side. The positive lead terminal is badly oxizided (blacken appearance) that oxidized layer is just like rust on a metal surface that ground wiring has problems with. We are going to change out the battery terminals all with military terminals and then copper lugs on all the wiring. The new military terminals will be treated with engine oil before installing. Just think a second what are the only two materials in the world that can contain sulphuric acid? Answer. Glass which is no longer used and plastic. Plastic is made from what? Oil! Just little engine oil will stop the sulphuric acid from oxidizing the battery terminals in the future if you keep a light coating of engine oil. That's all this will be a fix that will not require fixing again if you keep the oil on the terminals.