Mopar1973Man

I can say engine oil temperature will show timing. Ive managed to keep Beast with oil temperature below 180°F even with coolant temperature ranging 197 to 210°F. Simply put if your timing is off oil temperature will rise to coolant level or higher. Now if I look back at all this time on DAP 150HP 7x0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar. Im at 504k miles and still got 6 to 7% engine load at idle. Now understanding even more about tuning. This works for Beast because of the wear on the injectors. As your injectors wear they start popping early as the spring tension loosens up. There is no way to build a tune and not have to retune over from weather change, wear on the injectors, fuel cetane levels, etc. I've got the RV in tow and gross weight closer to 17,500 pounds. Oil temperature staying in check most ive seen was on Whitebird grade at 1,200°F EGTs and oil temperature stay right at 180°F. Can anyone catch me?

As for the selt belt light take the two wires under the driver seat and twist together and light is permanently disabled.

Try heating the bolt nut and trying to melt a crayon in there. Ive seen this trick and not had a chance to try it yet. Shop still missing yet. (Shop 404 error)

Wife and I took the RV and headed to Lewiston Idaho for shopping and a bit of down time. Ive had my first problem on my trip my passenger headlight finally blew the bulb. Come to find out Lewiston doesnt even have and D2H bulbs for HID headlights. Im going to order new ballast and bulbs for Beast from Amazon. https://a.co/d/0hjxRZNE Upgrading from 35w ballast to 55w ballast and changing from 5000k to 6000k bulbs. Finding a bulb with the right connector is tough.

Sorry been on the road limited cell service. My suggestion at this point I would consider contacting Auto Computer Specialist and have the PCM and ECM tested. Something is wrong if the wait to start does light up, fuel pump not bumping at key on. Then the PCM creates the CCD bus so. Wiring on the CCD would need to be checked for sure. Bias voltage is not correct even after removing modules.

After many little mistakes like me forgetting my ostomy supplies. Trip home. Then back to camp. The last blog was easy 48 miles. We left Whitebird Idaho and got into Lewiston Idaho. Climbing grades like Whitebird Grade 7%. Oil temperature barely touched 180°F even though EGTs 1,100 to 1,350°F as my set limit but touched 1,400°F once. Enging coolant stay 205 to 215°F most of the climb. As we can down grade the oil temp cooled of back to 172°F. Beast is doing good but tripped a P0341 but the light went back out. Im grabbing a new cam sensor while in town.

Wife and I have started a trip to Lewiston ID. Its a work trip being we need groceries and supplies. Yeah its extremely tough to get even basic repairs done waiting for weather and not laying in the mud. Took most of the day to get packed up to roll. Made it to a pull out near Whitebird ID. Grabbing breakfast.

I normally mix all the coolant before pouring it into ensure a proper 50/50 mixture. The way to drain the block is to park the truck nose down on a slope, and most of the water will come out. Yes, I do mix all the coolants before pouring in, so there is enough water to be a coolant. Antifreeze is not a coolant by itself, and water is what actually does that work.

Refill method I use... First off, if the coolant system is drained, I always remove the thermostat. Then, as you fill the cooling system, it will push all the air up through the thermostat hole. This way, by the time the thermostat opens, there will be little air left in the head area.

@Mace would you do a complete article please? I'll give a 10 dollar credit to your account! Im still trying to get stuff cleared out of my yard to eventually have a shop again. Im will to pay people for good articles.

If your using oversized tires use the standard box. Smaller tires like 31 inch and less you can use the quick ratio like I did. Oversized tires put too much stress on a quick ratio and failure of the box is more common. Bluetop was my pick back in the day being he was making the parts for Redhead steering. Still have my bluetop but needs a bit snuggling up soon.

The two new radiators ive got have just a threaded plug now. Ive not seen a peacock style drain in awhile. Ive use nitrile o-rings out of my HVAC kit in the past for that repair. Little tricky to remove but the o-rings are easy to replace.

Another tip. Always remove the thermostat from the head. This allows for a complete refill of the block and head space, so there are no hot spots or trapped air bubbles. Always drive the truck till the thermostat opens and then closes again by seeing the temperature of the coolant rise above the set point of the thermostat at least 10*F more. Then it should drop sharply to just below the closing temperature. This should purge the remaining air from the system. Just check the coolant level in the morning after it has completely cooled off again.