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Mopar1973Man

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Mopar1973Man last won the day on November 13

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About Mopar1973Man

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    New Meadows, Idaho

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  1. The sensor has to have distance from the snubber to allow the pulses to fade in the distance of travel. Hence why I created this write up and still to this day my ISSPro EV2 sensor is still working perfectly. A common mistake to place the sensor right on top of the snubber and then to lose the sensor shortly afterward.
  2. Ummm... Seriously doubt that several inches comment. Being that from the bottom of the case drain plug to the bottom fill plug is only 6 inches. I've got 7 inches of oil in the case which is over the top of the sensor. There is oil over the top of the sensor even if I put the gearbox in 5th gear rough road speeds RPM (~1,800) and transfer case in neutral and check it still got oil over the sensor. I've checked this too.
  3. Mopar1973Man

    Towing without gauges

    Just be aware. If coolant temperature starts to rise back off and slow down. Typically coolant will start to rise if the EGT's are held above 1,100*F for long periods. I know for a fact a stock ISB engine can and will run past 1,400*F just towing at highway speeds. I learned this lesson on my first trailer towing job hauling a friends Chevy pickup back from Boise, ID over Horsebend grade. Just barely install my DiPricol Pyrometer and still no injectors or tuners yet. The EGT's could rise to 1,400*F easily towing in top gear at 60 MPH which is posted speed limit. But I had the 3.55 gears... 5th Gear (NV5600) is direct 1:1 ratio this is the gear you want to be in towing over grades if you want to play it safe.
  4. Slightly overfilled about a pint. Just checked the fluid today and its still over the top of the sensor. Just got to lightly tip the sensor sample the oil for color and screw the sensor back in and plugin again. Putting the sensor at the bottom will get a false cooler reading since heat rises to the top. This is quote the "hot side" of the transmission which most have heat shields, exhaust blankets and such to keep the transmission cooler. Again mine is cooler from the start without any fast coolers, blankets or heat shields. Now figure that out... All I'm running is that GL-4 50 WT Mobil Transmission Fluid... @AH64ID had the same comment to and we already dealt with that problem. Like today I crawled the entire truck checking lubes and inspecting brakes and everything the last thing I want is get total covered in oil and dirt. I keep after my leaks and keep the dirt and mud rinsed off. Winter time salt does it task when you leave a ton a mud under the truck. This why I been able to hold the rusting at bay so long!
  5. Mopar1973Man

    Modern Power Point

    I found a scrap piece of steel strap and ground it down to fit the cigarette lighter lever it over and was stuck. After a bit of tugging on it the locks on the black ring gave up and the entire cigarette lighter socket and the lock ring came out together. My tool is permanently stuck in the cigarette lighter. Now taking a old chainsaw file slowly working the hole open I managed to just make the hole big enough to push nearly snug in. Finally a real Android Quick Charger for the truck. My LG G5 phone sees the charger shortly after powering up. This is super nice no more parasitic draws. I will add the nut here shortly. Daylight was short today and getting cold outside.
  6. Most local part houses don't carry diesel style gauges mostly all gasoline stuff. Even with today's cars gasoline engines are now in the 40-60 PSI range with fuel injection and throttle body injection (old school). Good call... But I'll let you know the 4 ways to kill a VP44. 1. Low fuel pressure - 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. 2. poor filtration. Aim for a good 3um filter if possible or double stacking. 3. High AC noise - Bad alternator diodes will kill a VP44. 4. Poor lubricity - Bosch states fuel should be <460 HFRR all today US diesel fuel is ~520 HFRR.
  7. Mopar1973Man

    Everyone post a picture of your truck!

    You can pull the clutch off the same on 24V 2nd Gen. Just pull it up through the top. Where I live I'm in the mountain of Idaho my morning temperature here could be downright cold at zero or +10°F outside then roll on down to Ontario, OR and have daytime temperature in the 60's or 70's for a high. I found out by just being lazy and not taking them off to learn the fan will take care of the cooling just fine. Might try the fanless idea this winter and pull it off and leave the winter front off. Winter is stalled and late to start here. Temperatures are cold enough just no snow or rainfall yet. Then daytime highs have been mild.
  8. Mopar1973Man

    Everyone post a picture of your truck!

    As long as the grill is the only cover it will engage when the fan senses hot enough air. I've run this style of grill cover for the year with temperatures as high as 70°F outside and the fan will naturally lock on its own.
  9. Mopar1973Man

    Let's talk about shocks.

    The only shock I would mention is the Monroe shocks are of low quality. I've got those on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 now and they are well too bouncy and don't dampen enough.
  10. Hmmm... Strange I've got trouble with 50 WT lube to get above 100°F on the transmission temp. It like the viscosity of 90 WT gear lube. I've got to be above 50°F outside temp to even break above 100°F trans temp. Without FASS coolers... I've finally made 100k miles on 50 WT oil still going strong no issues to report. Now heading for 200k milestone!
  11. Mopar1973Man

    Winterize fuel, high cetane

    Still the fact remains API gravity MUST change to alter cetane. Being Cetane and BTU are directly related you can have high cetane and high BTU's together scientifically impossible... Like the most common PPD used in US diesel fuel is Xylene typically at the 8% to 12% levels in winterized fuels. Xylene is also used in some cetane boosters as well again there is all kind of chemicals on the market to change the fuel. Still even after the adding of these chemicals, you can still measure a change in gravity. BTU's come from the fact of long carbon changes in the fuel long the chain the more BTU's. Cetane is the ability to ignite easily in cold weather. The only way I know how to do that is cut the carbon chains shorter. When this happens the API gravity can measure the density of the fuel now because the carbon are no longer long then have been shorten. As you make longer carbon chain length you start heading towards oils and high BTU's as you shorten the chains you start going to light distillates like gasoline which have lower BTU's. This is a primary reason why gasoline has a high API gravity and lower BTU's content that diesel.
  12. Mopar1973Man

    Winterize fuel, high cetane

    Kind of like dropping gasoline in diesel or waste oil. Still it chemical altered but you can still measure the API gravity change. Really common for WEO and WVO running that are chemical altering fuel to meet the needs fo the season and you can still measure a chemical altered fuel with a API gravity. Hence API gravity goes up the BTU's go down. Still if you can measure API change then there a cetane difference. If there is no API gravity change then cetane didn't change.
  13. The whole problem is most jump for too big of turbo and then end up with too much lag time, EGT's and smoke issues. I'm running +75 HP injectors now with a smaller HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) and the Quadzilla as my fuel management. No EGT's at all. Matter of fact last night did a bit of show and tell with a friend in McCall, ID and blew his mind. Toss on the performance tune and let the beast eat. Then after playing flipped back to an economy tune and rolled into town as a normal smokefree truck. My towing tune I can stand on the throttle and never reach 1,200°F in EGT's climbing 6% grade. Large injectors can be used but you need a good fuel management system. The downside is stock ECM is heavily retarded so this generated a lot of high EGT's being that most of the fuel that is burning is pushed out the exhaust port into the turbo to create boost. As you build a tune you find what the truck likes and EGT's and fuel consumption will fall naturally. I want to jump to +100 HP injectors but I've already got a huge problem is 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears I've got enough power to overwhelm the rear tires at the drop of my foot. So I'm at the end of what my tires will hold now. My economy tune is very mild and takes quite a bit to get the tire to let go. On the performance tune the power is so mean the tires just can hold the torque any longer. So there is no sense to me going higher yet. I end up cutting fuel just to keep the tires with traction. Just goes to show you can do a lot with very little fuel if set up properly between the fuel injectors, turbo sized properly, and good fuel and timing management.
  14. Mopar1973Man

    Winterize fuel, high cetane

    Never seen this before. When you change the cetane of the fuel your basically changing the API gravity of the fuel and making it lighter. Which is going to move the vertical axis to the right as high cetane. When you look at the scale provided by ASTM labs it rather difficult to keep high BTU content at the same time of having high cetane levels. The horizontal axis is the cloud point of the fuel and how soon it will gell up. I just don't see it possible to chemically alter the cetane and BTU value high. impossible to change the API gravity of a fuel and have if both heavy and light at the same time. Just for point of reference right around 115k BTU is where super unleaded starts.
  15. Mopar1973Man

    Everyone post a picture of your truck!

    Someday we need to sit down and chat on the phone. I can fill your head with a ton of info on these truck and it would make your head spin on why did they do this and that.
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