Mopar1973Man

After many little mistakes like me forgetting my ostomy supplies. Trip home. Then back to camp. The last blog was easy 48 miles. We left Whitebird Idaho and got into Lewiston Idaho. Climbing grades like Whitebird Grade 7%. Oil temperature barely touched 180°F even though EGTs 1,100 to 1,350°F as my set limit but touched 1,400°F once. Enging coolant stay 205 to 215°F most of the climb. As we can down grade the oil temp cooled of back to 172°F. Beast is doing good but tripped a P0341 but the light went back out. Im grabbing a new cam sensor while in town.

Wife and I have started a trip to Lewiston ID. Its a work trip being we need groceries and supplies. Yeah its extremely tough to get even basic repairs done waiting for weather and not laying in the mud. Took most of the day to get packed up to roll. Made it to a pull out near Whitebird ID. Grabbing breakfast.

I normally mix all the coolant before pouring it into ensure a proper 50/50 mixture. The way to drain the block is to park the truck nose down on a slope, and most of the water will come out. Yes, I do mix all the coolants before pouring in, so there is enough water to be a coolant. Antifreeze is not a coolant by itself, and water is what actually does that work.

Refill method I use... First off, if the coolant system is drained, I always remove the thermostat. Then, as you fill the cooling system, it will push all the air up through the thermostat hole. This way, by the time the thermostat opens, there will be little air left in the head area.

@Mace would you do a complete article please? I'll give a 10 dollar credit to your account! Im still trying to get stuff cleared out of my yard to eventually have a shop again. Im will to pay people for good articles.

If your using oversized tires use the standard box. Smaller tires like 31 inch and less you can use the quick ratio like I did. Oversized tires put too much stress on a quick ratio and failure of the box is more common. Bluetop was my pick back in the day being he was making the parts for Redhead steering. Still have my bluetop but needs a bit snuggling up soon.

The two new radiators ive got have just a threaded plug now. Ive not seen a peacock style drain in awhile. Ive use nitrile o-rings out of my HVAC kit in the past for that repair. Little tricky to remove but the o-rings are easy to replace.

Another tip. Always remove the thermostat from the head. This allows for a complete refill of the block and head space, so there are no hot spots or trapped air bubbles. Always drive the truck till the thermostat opens and then closes again by seeing the temperature of the coolant rise above the set point of the thermostat at least 10*F more. Then it should drop sharply to just below the closing temperature. This should purge the remaining air from the system. Just check the coolant level in the morning after it has completely cooled off again.

TIP When the coolant exceeds 225°F the cluster will slam the needle to 240°F and trip the check gages light and chime. Since you never seen the Check Gages light you are fine. No worse I was out a few years ago firewood cutting. Lost all the power steering fluid. I had ATF+4 in my toolbox I refilled with ATF+4 and finished the day and came home to flush that all out again. 504k miles still going. Being out of a fluid is bad but replace with the wrong fluid can be better than no fluid at all. Just choose wisely.

People tend to forget what has happened to me. Let me update you on a frustration I had to deal with. First of all, dealing with medical insurance companies is a PITA. I lost my insurance for a short time, which now locked up all my medical treatment, testing, etc til lthis was sorted out. This includes my ostomy bags, too, which I was running out. Calling insurance handlers (subcontracted) to get information straightened out so I could get supplies. This last Sunday, my night bag fell apart right about 7am leaving me in a puddle of urine. Strip the bed, take a shower, and clean up. Do the laundry for the bed. I was helping a neighbor yesterday with trying to get an RV started again. No power to the aftermarket electric fuel pump. Had him run new power to the rear. The carburetor started leaking on this Ford 460 CID motorhome. Seen that it's the accelerator pump diaphragm. I ran to McCall to pick up the new accelerator pump. Came back, I was sore and folded for the day. Last night at 4am my bag leaked again. I was so pissed off that I was pissed on again. These kinds of events bring me back to the reality of myself being medically changed. After being up most of the early morning to do laundry and remake the bed. @Tweety Bird and I managed to sleep again and make up for the shortfall. Frustrating that my muscles and my body have such low limits now its sad. Just standing for long periods can be painful now, even though I'm not doing any mechanical work myself, but being there to guide people is still rather fun. My neighbor Carl he has known me for a long time and asked if I would be the brains of his move and get his vehicles running so he can move. Ford 460 Motorhome with fuel issues. A jeep with driveline issues (damaged rear yoke on the rear diff and broken rear glass).

Think about your purpose mostly. What is the plan for the truck and what will it be used for the most? Then build this truck for that purpose and enjoy the craft you made! I totally understand why some like the automatics for the stomp and GO! Just one thing to keep in mind, automatics like to have a final ratio closer to 3.73 after tires to reduce the stress on the internal parts. So to make sure you figuring your tires in the part of the design too!

Something to double check that rubber mat flooring is typical for rotting out the floors. You might lift the rubber and double-check the interior metal for any rust. One of the common conversions I have to do was pulling up all the rubber mat flooring and fix all the rusted floor metal and then convert to carpet. I've done this in a few rigs that people had rubber floors. Typically the drivers floor pan is rotting.

Personally I prefer the 5 speed NV4500 over an Auto. Even cheaper to rebuild a 5 speed than any 47RE. Just consider billet shafts for an 47RE.