Mopar1973Man

Same here. I was referring to @yohon that is running 2-way valves to keep water flowing or shut off. People who race these trucks don't worry about heater cores and A/C most race trucks don't even have a dash. Yeah, I'll keep this broken dash truck and keep going.

Noted... Power Steering Pump Repair Kit For 1994-2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Just reposting the link to make it searchable for other people.

It's worth remembering that when racing a Cummins, most will ditch the heater core circuit altogether.

I just got home. Ill see what I can do for a measurement for you.

Yeah that nickle sized magnet does exist inside the reservoir. Gotta ask did anyone find a reservoir o-ring source?

The heater hose from the head is the supply of hot coolant and the steel tube is return. I would suggest the supply side for a valve. As for Beast I've got 500k and the steeper motor is having issues moving the door and my stock coupler is still good no damage. I might be looking for a new stepper motor this winter. It's weird but it will get stuck on full heat all winter. Then simmer come it starts working again. Cracked circuit board? Bad soldering joint?

Yup. Today I officially classify as a senior citizen. Yup im 55 years old. Computer tech, diesel tech, and now a makeup artist. @Tweety Bird has a plan for me.

My write up was more so for the tappet cover gasket replacement. The ECM has 10mm bolts holding it to the block/tappet cover. There is a single allen screw in the center of the plug.

Cracked fuse will drop voltage randomly. Change with a fresh fuse t Poor man's test it will work just remember you moved the possibly damaged fuse and/or relay so be careful of the systems you might affect. If you problem moves then the relay or fuse will need to be replaced.

@Mace I'd need to chat with you on the phone to verify other things to make sure a tune work work.

Double check your fuse for the VP44 and the fuel pump relay in the PDC. Fuse might appear good and be cracked which will give random drops of voltage. The relay connects might be bad too. If you have the W-T ground wire mod. Then the ground for the VP44 is at the gear case otherwise the ground is the passenger battery terminal. Use the wiring diagram and test the wires from end to end should have 5 ohms or less to pass. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/engine/electrical/2000-engine-wiring-map-r391/

Ahhh. Fear not! Quadzilla tuner is interception tuner. Basically the 2 pin CanBus connector allows access to live data. Quadzilla only changes the datastream and none of the ECM or PCM is altered or programmed. If you need stock just turn to level ZERO and all tuning stops but continues to display live data. This in not like Smarty which flashes the ECM EPROM and alters the physical ECM software. Quadzilla is safe.

You confirmed the 2-cycle oil theory is solid if you have an OEM pump still going. I'm at a +150 HP injector (7 x 0.010, popped at 320 bar (4,641 PSI). Then Quadzilla custom tune which I'm re doing for this coming winter on the day I use my truck. Trick on my end, DO NOT just ramp up power. I don't reach above 100% stock till 20 PSI of boost. So technically, I'm just running my +150 HP injectors and no additional fuel, less stress on the pump for a daily driver. Running about 23 to 25 degrees of timing at 2,000 RPM. Partially to make up for the lateness of the injectors which are popped higher. Just figured I'd share my ideas with yours...

Do tell...