Mopar1973Man

I marked your response as a solution to the issue. Even though it's a simple solution, the truck is back on the road!

I've noticed the server is having issues with certain-sized files (large cellphone photos) that have been failing to upload. I've been working on a solution, but still working on getting it set up properly. Basically, I should swap from the GD processor to ImageMagik photo processor, which is capable of handling large photos without creating errors. In the short term, if you just resize the photo to a smaller size (less than 2000x2000 px), the system will accept the file or turn up the compression on JPG or PNG, and it will process the photo. I'm going to do some retuning of the system to make sure the system processes have enough RAM and temp file space. The fun part is that most of this work was aided by AI from Google Gemini. I just give information on what I'm working with, like software name and versions, then post error codes from the software, and then AI will give me an answer. If the answer seems wrong, then call it out and correct the information if possible, so you get a correct answer. AI made a few mistakes listing v4 software settings, then I informed AI that I'm using v5 software, and notified AI that the answer did not work. I've got a very long conversation running on my workstation trying to fix this small problem alone, from testing firewalls, to software permissions, memory settings, and dimension limits of uploads.

Ditch the Quadzilla and let him look it all over. Then, when he's done, put the Quadzilla all back in.

I had a vibration starting on the truck that was noticeable by about 70 MPH. I have already crawled under once before to attempt greasing the joints and check for play, but the u-joints seemed good. This is why I always suggest a full removal of the shaft so it's not loaded by hanging / gear tension. Now it's been some time since I've really been a mechanic, due to my cancer (strength), but I need to keep up with my repairs on Beast. @Tweety Bird came out to document while I was working. Strangely enough @Doubletrouble called while I was working and helped him set up a Quadzilla on his truck at the same time. I was smart and bought a full rebuild kit for the front driveshaft. 3 u-joint and the center bearing for the double cardan joint. When I got the front joint removed from the front axle, the one bearing cup fell off. Yup, I found the bad joint in the front u-joint, but I continued to remove the entire shaft to check the full range of motion to see any other damage to the u-joints. The double cardan joint was fine. I broke out the grease gun and pumped a good load of marine grease into the double cardan joints. Replacing the front u-joint was a snap with a pair of needle nose pliers, pluck the snap rings out, and using an old socket tap out the one bearing cup and tapped it back the other direction. Popped the other cup out. Quick clean out of the front yoke and slipped in the new u-joint, but remember to place your grease zerk in the proper location so you can reach it later! Now finish up and install the driveshaft again. @Tweety Bird went with me for the ride. The truck is so smooth, even with a quick blast to 90 MPH, it's like glass again. Smooth, no vibrations, and very enjoyable to drive. I'm so happy the double cardan doesn't require rebuilding.

As far as my wife and I are concerned, Beast is going to be retired to strictly trailer hauling. I'm in the process of getting the RV ready, and the same with Beast. @Tweety Bird has medical to deal with down in Boise, Idaho. To save on motel stays or just driving back and forth. We are hauling the RV down and going to start in an RV park, but eventually move to a random spot where we are not in an RV park. As for Beast, I need to look into a vibration in the driveline, which I'm pretty sure is my front drive shaft. If I can get the shaft out quickly today, I'm going to inspect all the joints for looseness. I have replacement joints I can install, plus the center bearing too, between the double cardan joint. My wife and I want to start traveling soon in the future to go out and meet you guys and gals out there. I still have the knowledge, but I can help people repair their trucks with my knowledge. We are going to start building the RV up for travel. I just picked up a 1 x 4 x 8 to allow me to mount the CPAP machines in the bedroom.

Last night I got my web server here running... 😁 I know a lot of you might be standoffish about AI. So I was chasing the 500 error code I was getting. AI asked if I would look for errors between the Apache server and the PHP module. When I found the error, all I did was copy and paste the error message into the AI box and hit go, no other explanations. AI reported back that I was missing the PHP module "mbstring php module". Ask AI how to install, and it created a terminal command exactly what I needed, except for the version number. I told AI to assume PHP 8.3. So it created all future responses with proper version numbers. When I got the mbstring module in the installer screen started working instantly, and it showed the other modules missing as well. I was able to quickly install all modules and have a running copy of this software here at home. Only catch I screwed up my password and can't log in. (D'OH!) I'll just delete the install and install again fresh from the ground up. This will provide my sandbox for the actual website and allow me to play without messing up a live site. Being my server here is much bigger than my hosting server I've got room for multiple servers. Local Server (home.mopar1973man.com) 16 core AMD Ryzen 5 7600X 32 GB of RAM 16 TB of storage (M.2 Hard Drives) Live Site (Mopar1973man.com) 8 Core Intel Processor 8 GB of RAM 160 GB Hard drive Now with a bit of effort, I can create multiple virtual servers easily on my local server for different purposes.

Thank you @IBMobile for posting that! I'll never remove my tuner for no laws. Sorry, I've had enough of BS policies that have no basis. When a person actually tunes an engine and makes it more efficient, why would you give up your tuner? Like myself, my best so far to date was from Seattle WA, to the Idaho state Line outside of Lewiston Idaho and travelled 300 miles across Washington State and only used a 1/4 tank of fuel. Remember, the government hates it when we make our diesels more efficient because the Government doesn't get the tax dollars from fuel (highway fuel). If you're running more efficiently, then you're polluting less, too!

I had a delay in my build of the server. The Islamic Cyber Resistance in Iraq 313 Team claimed responsibility for the attack on Ubuntu Servers. They have returned to operation state. I just finished updating both workstations for us and the server in under like 5 minutes. Easy as pie. Quick script I built to handle this function... #!/bin/bash # A script to fully update Ubuntu and clean up system junk. echo "--- Starting System Update ---" # Update package lists sudo apt update # Upgrade all packages # sudo apt full-upgrade -y echo "--- Cleaning Up APT Packages ---" # Remove packages that are no longer needed sudo apt autoremove --purge -y # Clear out the local repository of retrieved package files sudo apt autoclean -y # Remove all remaining package files from the cache sudo apt clean -y echo "--- Performing Deep System Cleanup ---" # Clean up old journal logs (keeps only last 2 days) sudo journalctl --vacuum-time=7d # Remove old Snap versions (frees up significant space) set -eu snap list --all | awk '/disabled/{print $1, $3}' | while read snapname revision; do sudo snap remove "$snapname" --revision="$revision" done # Optional: Clean thumbnail cache (Safe) rm -rf ~/.cache/thumbnails/* echo "--- System Maintenance Complete ---" # Check if a reboot is required if [ -f /var/run/reboot-required ]; then echo "REBOOT REQUIRED to apply updates." fiSystem is secure again! Up to date and protected from hackers. I'm going to get back to getting the domain name working fully here in the house network as a bench test. I've never built my own server before, so this is all new ground for me and learning a ton of stuff about Ubuntu Servers. I actually like Ubuntu Linux its solid and well supported out there on the internet. As for the server (LAMP package) I've got adjusting and setup to do yet through the webmin, and virtualmin.

We have a dangerous tree behind the house. The pine tree is already leaning toward the house. I wanted a professional to climb the tree and bring it down safely. I hired Native Sisters Tree Service to take down that dangerous tree. Jenn Cope came out the first day and limb the tree up and cut the top out of the tree. I wasn't ready, funds-wise, and she wasn't willing to drop the tree without her helper. (Week Delay) @Tweety Bird got the banking done, and Jenn Cope returns a bit early. She was willing to drop the tree today. I told her I'm heading to the bank to get a check for her. Then she turns to me and looks me in the face and tells me... "I love your style because you don't give a F. I'm 42 years old, and you are the only person I know who just doesn't give a F." Yeah, as I'm facing Jenn, I'm wearing my teal wig, white face foundation, and teal eyeshadow, standard black lipstain. She just loves my energy and style. I'm going to continue doing my makeup artistry (Titanium), Cummins diesels (supporting), and Cloud 10 Computers. She happened to tell me that others in my local community still think I'm a diesel guru. Jenn gave me a good, firm handshake, and she was going to consult me for future information on her diesel trucks. Don't judge to hard this is at the time of this posting. I even was out working on Beast doing a cam sensor and then ran to town with Thor to get items for a RV mod.

Back during my Lewiston trip, I had the Check Engine light pop on. Yeah, I know the secret key trick only the 2002 can do. So I ran the codes and had a P0341 code for the Cam Sensor. The next day I ran out to get some other stuff and picked up the cam sensor. NAPA number CSS712. Fast forward in time, the truck stuttered again, looked down, and there was the sensor in the transfer case boot. Tools required8mm 6-sided socket (1/4" drive) short well 1/4" extensions about 9 inches 1/4" ratchet Electrical tape Cam sensor What to do!Set up the socket, extensions, and the ratchet. Remove the one 8mm bolt holding the sensor. It's tight, but you can get a hand under the socket to catch the bolt. Carefully free the sensor by twisting a little bit, and you will feel it slide off the o-ring. Grab the wiring and lightly tug, and it should come out. Remove the old sensor and toss it in the trash. Plug in the new sensor to the wiring (IMPORTANT!) Using your hand between the VP44 and the vacuum pump, you can push the sensor back into its hole. The tab should be angled upwards towards you. If you have to rotate a bit to feel the hole placement, then return the sensor to its position. Using a small square of electrical tape, stick it squarely to the bolt head, and slip the socket onto the cam sensor bolt head. It will hold the bolt from falling out of the socket. Carefully thread the bolt back into its hole and tighten the cam sensor bolt. Just completed this task in about 10 minutes with just the basic hand tools. I would have had photos, but impossible to get a cellphone back there and get a clean image. Sorry!

Umm. This is why I love the Quadzilla Tuner: you can control smoke and produce a clean tune. Just most people over-tune (excessive fuel & timing). There is a way to get the most out of the tuner, but you have to think about what you are setting up and your driving style. Fuel should not be above 100% till you need to pass someone, and you should not need added fuel to drive on a normal highway. In other words, build a tune that you can normally drive at 100% fuel till say 15 PSI of boost, then ramp up above 100%. As for timing, yeah, you can go anywhere but... Retarding helps with launching and building boost, so make sure your 1500 RPM band is low, say 12 or 13 degrees. Excessive timing will prevent boost building, and yeah, creates smoke when you roll into the throttle, it should RETARD to spool. If you want stupid power build that a totally different tune you use in private. 😉 Yeah one reason I dumped Edge long ago...

Could you just check your AC voltage one more time? Take the truck out, warm it up, and leave it running. Now pull out your DVM and check the voltage at the BATT post on the alternator and the passenger side negative. Make sure no other loads are on. Then post your result voltage. You can still have a bad diode, possibly causing issues. Just double-checking values and make sure your power isn't polluted yet. Make sure to use a good quality DVM that has a 2V setting range and is capable of measuring more than just 60 Hz house power. (Like my old Fluke DVM does!) Keep in mind 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear are all hydraulic shifts. 4th Gear is electronic (PCM control) and the torque converter lock up is electronic (PCM control) hence the model / name 47RE - (4 gears, 7 score for 0 to 9 for torque, Rear wheel drive, Electronic shift)

All I can say is hit the driveline shops local to you. Do a little in person chat with shops and see if someone would know something beyond stock.