Mopar1973Man

I had a delay in my build of the server. The Islamic Cyber Resistance in Iraq 313 Team claimed responsibility for the attack on Ubuntu Servers. They have returned to operation state. I just finished updating both workstations for us and the server in under like 5 minutes. Easy as pie. Quick script I built to handle this function... #!/bin/bash # A script to fully update Ubuntu and clean up system junk. echo "--- Starting System Update ---" # Update package lists sudo apt update # Upgrade all packages # sudo apt full-upgrade -y echo "--- Cleaning Up APT Packages ---" # Remove packages that are no longer needed sudo apt autoremove --purge -y # Clear out the local repository of retrieved package files sudo apt autoclean -y # Remove all remaining package files from the cache sudo apt clean -y echo "--- Performing Deep System Cleanup ---" # Clean up old journal logs (keeps only last 2 days) sudo journalctl --vacuum-time=7d # Remove old Snap versions (frees up significant space) set -eu snap list --all | awk '/disabled/{print $1, $3}' | while read snapname revision; do sudo snap remove "$snapname" --revision="$revision" done # Optional: Clean thumbnail cache (Safe) rm -rf ~/.cache/thumbnails/* echo "--- System Maintenance Complete ---" # Check if a reboot is required if [ -f /var/run/reboot-required ]; then echo "REBOOT REQUIRED to apply updates." fiSystem is secure again! Up to date and protected from hackers. I'm going to get back to getting the domain name working fully here in the house network as a bench test. I've never built my own server before, so this is all new ground for me and learning a ton of stuff about Ubuntu Servers. I actually like Ubuntu Linux its solid and well supported out there on the internet. As for the server (LAMP package) I've got adjusting and setup to do yet through the webmin, and virtualmin.

We have a dangerous tree behind the house. The pine tree is already leaning toward the house. I wanted a professional to climb the tree and bring it down safely. I hired Native Sisters Tree Service to take down that dangerous tree. Jenn Cope came out the first day and limb the tree up and cut the top out of the tree. I wasn't ready, funds-wise, and she wasn't willing to drop the tree without her helper. (Week Delay) @Tweety Bird got the banking done, and Jenn Cope returns a bit early. She was willing to drop the tree today. I told her I'm heading to the bank to get a check for her. Then she turns to me and looks me in the face and tells me... "I love your style because you don't give a F. I'm 42 years old, and you are the only person I know who just doesn't give a F." Yeah, as I'm facing Jenn, I'm wearing my teal wig, white face foundation, and teal eyeshadow, standard black lipstain. She just loves my energy and style. I'm going to continue doing my makeup artistry (Titanium), Cummins diesels (supporting), and Cloud 10 Computers. She happened to tell me that others in my local community still think I'm a diesel guru. Jenn gave me a good, firm handshake, and she was going to consult me for future information on her diesel trucks. Don't judge to hard this is at the time of this posting. I even was out working on Beast doing a cam sensor and then ran to town with Thor to get items for a RV mod.

Back during my Lewiston trip, I had the Check Engine light pop on. Yeah, I know the secret key trick only the 2002 can do. So I ran the codes and had a P0341 code for the Cam Sensor. The next day I ran out to get some other stuff and picked up the cam sensor. NAPA number CSS712. Fast forward in time, the truck stuttered again, looked down, and there was the sensor in the transfer case boot. Tools required8mm 6-sided socket (1/4" drive) short well 1/4" extensions about 9 inches 1/4" ratchet Electrical tape Cam sensor What to do!Set up the socket, extensions, and the ratchet. Remove the one 8mm bolt holding the sensor. It's tight, but you can get a hand under the socket to catch the bolt. Carefully free the sensor by twisting a little bit, and you will feel it slide off the o-ring. Grab the wiring and lightly tug, and it should come out. Remove the old sensor and toss it in the trash. Plug in the new sensor to the wiring (IMPORTANT!) Using your hand between the VP44 and the vacuum pump, you can push the sensor back into its hole. The tab should be angled upwards towards you. If you have to rotate a bit to feel the hole placement, then return the sensor to its position. Using a small square of electrical tape, stick it squarely to the bolt head, and slip the socket onto the cam sensor bolt head. It will hold the bolt from falling out of the socket. Carefully thread the bolt back into its hole and tighten the cam sensor bolt. Just completed this task in about 10 minutes with just the basic hand tools. I would have had photos, but impossible to get a cellphone back there and get a clean image. Sorry!

Umm. This is why I love the Quadzilla Tuner: you can control smoke and produce a clean tune. Just most people over-tune (excessive fuel & timing). There is a way to get the most out of the tuner, but you have to think about what you are setting up and your driving style. Fuel should not be above 100% till you need to pass someone, and you should not need added fuel to drive on a normal highway. In other words, build a tune that you can normally drive at 100% fuel till say 15 PSI of boost, then ramp up above 100%. As for timing, yeah, you can go anywhere but... Retarding helps with launching and building boost, so make sure your 1500 RPM band is low, say 12 or 13 degrees. Excessive timing will prevent boost building, and yeah, creates smoke when you roll into the throttle, it should RETARD to spool. If you want stupid power build that a totally different tune you use in private. 😉 Yeah one reason I dumped Edge long ago...

Could you just check your AC voltage one more time? Take the truck out, warm it up, and leave it running. Now pull out your DVM and check the voltage at the BATT post on the alternator and the passenger side negative. Make sure no other loads are on. Then post your result voltage. You can still have a bad diode, possibly causing issues. Just double-checking values and make sure your power isn't polluted yet. Make sure to use a good quality DVM that has a 2V setting range and is capable of measuring more than just 60 Hz house power. (Like my old Fluke DVM does!) Keep in mind 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear are all hydraulic shifts. 4th Gear is electronic (PCM control) and the torque converter lock up is electronic (PCM control) hence the model / name 47RE - (4 gears, 7 score for 0 to 9 for torque, Rear wheel drive, Electronic shift)

All I can say is hit the driveline shops local to you. Do a little in person chat with shops and see if someone would know something beyond stock.

No. Basically just 1 to 5 levels but no custom timing. Unless your pockets are super deep for about $2000 you can buy Smarty Touch but its still only a 60 HP tuner. I left them because of lack of timing and custom timing adjustments. Doesn't exist, really. Anything that modifies fuel or timing is NOT EPA or CARB certified; basically, anything that can change the stock tune is illegal. Tuners of any type, larger injectors are modifying the fuel flow amounts. Basically, we all deal with keeping our truck running clean and tuned. I would take some time and relocate all the tuner module under the dash. What they cannot see can't be illegal. The biggest thing is making sure your tune does not smoke! There is a way of making completely clean tunes. I wouldn't give up your tuner. Another idea is to remove all of it, do the inspection, and hook it all back up.

I know several people that could build a 47Re but not too savvy on the 6 spd version.

In all the years of being on hosting plans (GoDaddy, iPage, and Liquid Web). I have always had a premade server all set up for me. Yeah, I know hosting companies stamp these out quickly. Since the home server has been up and running, it has done an excellent job of backing up data and doing basic tasks. I've got 32 GB of memory, 16TB of M.2 hard drives, and 16 CPU Cores. Now I'm installing the LAMP package (Linux, Apache, MySQL, and PHP). I'm using Webmin, Usermin, and Virtualmin for my control panel. So far, I've been doing well and getting things set up and ironed out on my own. I will admit that once you learn to use Google's AI features, you can diagnose a web server fairly quickly. Right now, the home.mopar1973man.com domain is only on the local server/network. This allows me to bench test all this server before hooking it up to the internet. Now, in the study I've done, I found out I can still host data on the internet from my server even currently. As you see, the weather station here on the website is listed as Weather in the Mopar1973Man section. Then I've been able to check my security cameras. So this points out that there is something you can port out of the network here. From what I've found out, you can host data over Starlink, but you should have IPv6 set up and then have a full router, like what I've got here, a TP-Link ER605 gateway. The last step is to put Starlink into bypass mode. This should allow you to now control your data and port forwarding, which the Starlink box is missing. This keeps you locked out of doing something like hosting your own network on the internet. home.mopar1973man.com will be the address of my server here. Currently, I'm not listing this on the DNS server yet. Security must be handled first. Second, since Starlink is a dynamic IP address its hard to lock a server to a moving IP address. Fix! My TP-Link SG2428-P Switch has functions for hosting a dynamic domain through companies like DnuDNS, NO-IP, etc. I opted for DynuDNS, which you have to set up using the Custom section of LAN DNS section. I forced the local machines to use the hosts file in Linux as a fake way of handling the domain name for testing. Currently Ubuntu Servers are down due to hacker strike.

Time to put it back together!

Thank you for the wonderful comment.

Thank you for the simple comment. Yes you are correct.

I'm finding that people don't really care what I look like as long as the knowledge keeps rolling. I've got friends requesting me to sit and watch them work and help where I can. First job was a friend in Caldwell, Idaho that had driver side brake pad start scraping metal-to-metal contact. Luck he was smart, drove home, and parked the truck. The truck is a 1999 Dodge 1500 V8 5.2L 2WD. Driver side I showed him the basics of how to remove, which is simple: get the truck jacked up and remove the wheel. Grab a 3/8" Allen Socket and remove the 2 caliper guide pins. Caliper comes off simple. Little fun with getting the large single piston back in fully to fit the new pads over. All the driver side rteplaced. Tire back on and torqued tight on the lug nuts. Moved to the other side and someone before him helicoiled one of the caliper bolts and the loctite didn't hold. Ugh! We ended up hunt all over Nampa - Caldwell for a helicoil kit to repair that knuckle. This is where I had to step up and do the tap work and get the helicoils in. He understand once he gets moved to Riggins, Idaho he NEEDS to replace that entire knuckle on the passenger side.

During my trip to Lewiston, Idaho, the passenger side headlight failed. I assume the bulb was blown. I attempted to get a replacement bulb in town. Not possible. We stayed to daylight travel to get home. I returned home and ordered a set of 55w ballast and 55w D2H bulbs as a set. As I was disconnecting wires, the passenger side power plug from the MotoControl had burned one of the power pins. I had to contact RetroShop to order the new MotoControl. I've just needed a good weather day to get the headlights installed again.