Mopar1973Man

I've been playing with Thor to see if I could fix the AirDog 150 to get closer to 15 PSI. I found a spring at my local hardware store, and it was way thicker, but after a bit of trimming work, I got the fuel pressure to settle at 22 to 25 PSI. Yeah, I know it's high, but I wanted to be sure the CP3 is loading fully and getting good, solid rail pressure. I'm struggling to understand the grid heater light, and it typically trips on deceleration. I'm doing more testing to figure out my issues. Today I've got to run back to McCall to return core calipers for my core money. Thor is going to do the task.

Yeah, I just got done doing brakes on Beast. Both rear brake calipers had rusted pistons that were so jammed that I couldn't seat them. @Tweety Bird was telling me just get it repaired, we need the trucks to function properly. I most likely got a little tear in the rubber boots, and the road salt finally ate the calipers up before the pads were even worn out on the passenger side. The driver's side rear pads were nearly gone due to the rusted pistons. In my position, without a shop, it makes it rather tough to get creative with rebuilding calipers. Yeah, part changer, but at least Beast is safer to drive.

The oem hose was blue silicone lined hose. Heater hose will get soft and gummy over time.

Yes. Anything to prevent oxidation from happening.

Heater hose will work for the drain to block connection.

Oil will burn off during running. This is why I mention looking after it sat for a night it will leave a wet trace on the valves stem as you look in each port. Intake is bit tricky but if you had a wifi bore scope you could look at each port see if the valve stems are wet with oil.

Sadly if it's not leaking on the ground it leaking internally and being burnt as fuel. Vacuum pump would leak on the ground Front / rear crank seal would leak on theme ground Tappet cover would leak on the ground. Valve cover would leak on the ground. Valve seals yup it would be burnt as fuel and only be seen after the engine sat all night and Valve stems would be wet with engine oil. Piston rings yup could burn the oil as fuel too but blow by would be noticed typically. There is one case here from @jlwelding that had a cracked piston that past blow by test. Only proper way to test is a compression test. Lower compression would point that out.

It's electronic based issue in my opinion. VP44 ECM ...but ECM would throw a code. VP44 has been known for problems without setting a code. Strange like it's skipping a cylinder like injector drop test on a DRBIII tool.

Some how you need to see the valve stems to see if oil is weeping past the valve seals. 350k on Beast If valve guides are bad the valves will rock and eat the seals off the valve. This will allow oil in during idling and low boost conditions.

I'm glad I marked the solution above for you. Seems you got it mailed in. Just adjust for steering center on the drag link.

That turbo looks fine. I would pull the manifold off and check the exhaust ports for oil.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/16ordx3xH9/ Yeah i returned to Facebook and started posting to share with my local community.

Let me think on this more. I'll sleep on this and see if I can figure another test to get a clue. Oh. How about error codes? Still the same?

Today I was out in the yard running the little skid steer, loading bricks and concrete. Just getting things sorted out of the dirt is taking the most time. I just found the couch, which is pretty flat and crushed. Finding items from Marks' living room, I found the new but beaten network hub, which was less than half a year old. At about noon, it got pretty hot here, so we abandoned the front yard and came in. Still I've gotta give a huge amount of love for the Dischinger Family that continues to allow us the use of the skid steer. I made some pretty basic cheeseburgers for lunch. I don't know why... I was in my grey scrubs and grabbed my phone, went out, and just recorded a video and uploaded it to Mopar1973Man TikTok explaining I'm back but different from my cancer. Then, to flip the camera around and show off the work we managed to get done cleaning up the mess of a shop being smeared across the yard. Tiktok & YouTube have the video on my Mopar1973Man Accounts. Yeah I'm trying to let people know I'm back and things are starting to settle down now my health really isn't changing much right now but I have issues yet. I got busy trying to organize a bathroom between @Tweety Bird and myself. Crazy when there are two of us who do makeup work in the bathroom. There is a fairly large counter area for all of our makeup stuff. Yeah, I go into my little corner and start unloading my travel bag since I'm home for now and not traveling anywhere for now. Amazing how much black eyeshadow powder is on the mirror and even the counter. Time to clean it up. That's a hobby I enjoy is my makeup artistry with my character Titanium. I'll continue to post this in his blog area.

Out here there is only NAPA. No other part stores for miles. No autozone or similar. When the filter will not hold to the lid there is a problem.

Weird. As far as I know, the pitman arm and the input shaft can't be moved because they are keyed in one position. Are you sure you are at the true center of the steering box? Was the gear and rack messed with inside the steering box?

Be aware, I just found out the new filter I picked up this morning is defective. How? If you pull the old filter off the lid, it typically takes some force to pull the filter from the lid. Now, the new filter head that fits into the filter lid is too small and will fall out when just inverting the lid to install. Do not use these filters, you could be stuck digging the filter out of the filter can. I had pulled the last two filters they had to try them all them are too small. Now I even check my local repair shop in Riggins, ID and they have the same issue with the filters too. Just a heads up warning. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL3585XE?srsltid=AfmBOor2fo7JREB0ssAAUaSx9TJkw3XmEsldEQTuiajjlhuPE-pqkqsb

Mark iand Hachi (his dog) is in my basement bedroom. We are all working together to get the mess cleaned up. Difficult at best working with a broken set of sockets and wrenches. I'll be doing videos soon and posting more to YouTube and Tiktok.

Turbo check Try pulling and pushing the shaft like an old-school headlight switch. Any movement is an instant fail! It's possible for oil to be leaking because the shaft is moving. Then, if you can move the compressor wheel like a joystick, and the wheel should never touch the housing, this is a fail also. Turbine housing can be clocked by the four bolts and loosened, removed, and clocked correctly for your application. Then the compressor might have a large snap ring; you can release the compressor housing and clock accordingly.

It doesn't look like there is any oil in the turbo section. You might pull the turbo off quickly. Now, inspect the ports on the turbo mount for oil in the manifold runners. If you can plug the oil supply temporarily, you could start the engine and check to see if any oil or smoke comes from the manifold. Optimal would be to pull the manifold off and look into each port for oil residue. You could use a bit of cardboard to hold in front of the ports and check for oil splatter out of each port. Don't rev the engine! Oh yeah, grab a die and chase those studs, and then buy a few stainless steel nuts, at least they will not rust, and make sure to anti-seize those good!

I know that in the 2003 Dodge FSM the specification for fuel pressure is 9.5 PSI Minimum. I know that future books, like 2004 and forward, do not list fuel pressure specifications. I'm going to call the minimum pressure for a common rail engine a minimum of 10 PSI. I'm going to aim for 15 PSI with the AirDog 150. Problem I'm pretty sure I got a tank of debris fuel and most likely the fuel filters are plugging up and causing the grid heater light to come on because the demand pressure on the rail is not stable so the 2012 firmware update that creates the P2122 and P2123 codes is watching the pressure on the rail and when the rail cannot reach target or the rail pressure is swinging too low in pressure between injectors events. Here we go gang I'm going to start an article based on this and build a fuel pressure article for 3rd Gen trucks so people can get help with grid heater light, P2122 or P2123 codes. Video https://youtube.com/shorts/Iw3iiLTI-GY?feature=shared What has been done so far... The return fitting of the AirDog was removed, and the check ball was found stuffed in the coil of the spring. I modified the spring by bending the last coil over so the arm of the coil blocks the center of the coil, so the check ball rides on the top of the spring. Then the spring was shimmed with 2 washers like I did on Beast. Barely gave me 10 PSI by the time I got to Riggins, ID. It dropped to 5 PSI of fuel pressure. I plan on replacing all filters again. Both AirDog filters and the engine fuel filter, too. I gotta call my local NAPA store with the part numbers I have on the website. Replace all the filters and try again.

Yeah, with all the stress of dealing with the mess in the yard, then the mess of everyone crammed under one roof. It gets to everyone here, so sometimes you just gotta get dressed up and grab a truck and go wander out in the woods looking for camping spots and even take Mollie, our fur baby, with us. @Tweety Bird found me a light ash blue wig and even picked up the lipstain as well. @Tweety Bird She is such an awesome fiancée, she is always trying to add to my Titanium makeup and clothing. We loaded up in Thor and took off up Smokey Boulder Road looking for different camping spots. We found several spots that are deeper back in the forest but close to the Boulder Creek so we can go fishing. Oh yeah, Huckleberries are out and OMG! I found a hotspot back in the woods, just full of berries. Here lets just post the video.

With Beast leaking oil out front and rear main seals, needing tires, and closing in on 500k miles. Beast needs work to keep him going. Mark suggested to try looking into Thor. Luckily my fuel pressure test gauge made it and was intact and undamaged. I checked the fuel pressure key on, engine off, barely 7 to 8 PSI of fuel pressure. Now start the engine, the fuel pressure drops to 2-3 PSI with WOT stab of the throttle. Ugh! Now I pulled the check ball and spring and did my typical spring mod bending the last coil to block the ball from getting in the coil. Now shimmed it with two washers. Barely made 10 PSI. The grid heater light is off. I'm going to replace all the fuel filters see if it improves the pressure and stability. A simple job like this should be much more than a few minutes to fix. When your tools are all scattered and the box is in ruins. We are still missing sockets and tools in the dirt of the yard. Highly frustrating to spend nearly an hour to find 1 socket, 1 ratchet, and just take the fitting out and modify a spring. Absolutely frustrating! Let's see if Thor holds up now. Time and mileage will tell!

During our digging around the shop, we found my old Atari 800 computer stuff. Sadly, the computer is most likely destroyed. How does this mean anything? My computer adventure began at a very young age, around 14. My parents bought me an Atari 800 computer. This computer was the starting adventure of communications, even before the Internet was out. I bought myself a 2,400 baud modem and a few other bits and pieces for the Atari 800, but I created my very own BBS. BBS stands for Bulletin Board System. I made a deal with my parents to take over the phone line at night after 6 pm and run the site till 6 am. I created all my own software between the two cartridges above. The basic language was what I ran for the BBS software. Then the Assembler Editor allowed me to create and edit even current software. Back in 1984, Fidonet was just getting started, and I was working on adapting Atari Basic software to get Fidonet node messages and download all my messages for my BBS. This was my start of communications back in 1984 using an Atari 800 Computer, an Indus GT floppy drive, a 2400 baud modem, Atari 835 UART to Serial, etc. By the time I was finishing ITT Tech in 1989, I had built my own voice reader for my message coming off of Fidonet. Shortly after that, I moved to Idaho and then started Cloud 10 Computers. I was a computer technician till 2008 when the market crashed. During this time, I was building and selling computers for the locals around me. I was good with Windows right up to the time of Windows Vista. This is where I made the jump around 2010 and switched over to Ubuntu Linux and continued my adventure into the communication world using Linux software, as I still do this very day. I figure you all would love to see how a kid back in 1984 playing with a computer became the owner of Mopar1973Man.Com and still maintains the server on my own! Ubuntu Software version list and release dates - I started with Ubuntu 10.04 LTS then currently using Ubuntu 24.04 LTS https://wiki.ubuntu.com/Releases As for web server software, I have used CentOS7 Linux and now AlmaLinux 8 Linux https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Linux_Distribution_Timeline.svg As a side tidbit the 2008 market crash was also a switch where I dropped Cloud 10 Computers and switched over to working on the website and Mopar1973Man.Com LLC as a shop and doing diesel repairs. Sadly I was pushed pretty hard to keep up during my @MoparMom kidney failure doing 5 years of dialysis to keep her going. She pasted away in 2020. Then twisted with my start of cancer in 2018.