Mopar1973Man

Roughly 43% more. This figure is from my flow calibration in the iQuad app. Efficiency wise you want a good range of where the fuel table remains 100% while daily driving. This is why my CANBus table is 100% between 5 PSI and 15 PSI. Now if the load on the truck manages to pull 16 PSI or higher now the CANBus fuel is ramping up to 150%. Now if the wire tap is enabled now both CANBus and Wiretap will ramp up together to 30+ PSI. This makes serious power being both CANBus and Wire Tap are running together at the same rate. The other thing I figured out you shouldn't be able 100% fuel while trying to hit or hold cruise timing. Hence the 5 to 15 PSI wide 100% CANBus fuel range of my table.

If the grid heater cycle is completed it will not run the grid heater to you cycle the key OFF for at least 10 to 15 seconds. Then there is a fresh reboot of the ECM and grid heaters will be checked for IAT temperature and always there is bulb check on the first key on. After that the WAIT TO START will not run again on subsequent tries on the same key cycle. You might check the PDC fuses for cracks. Bad connection of power. Also there is a fuse in the cab too for powering the ECM and PCM for trigger ON.

This morning it's 45F here. Yup it is so cold this morning I've got heat on in the house. By next week it will be back to 100F days again. Yesterday high was a mere 65F.

It cooled off so much here I've got my heat pump running today its only 64F outside now. Raining just a spit here and there. I've already headed to McCall and Lake Fork this morning and then back into Riggins. Even my rain gauge on my weather tower shows ZERO inches...

Oh eventually I will improve that truck too. Once funds allow for a good tuner for the CR engine I'll buy into something that give full control. Me personally it will not be a Smarty... I'll most likely go toward EFI Live.

Every 3 days I fill up Thor at 110 to 120 USD. Typically close to 28 to 32 gallons. I travel approximately 150 to 200 for my McCall - Donnelly job. I automatically make 85 dollars for just leaving the house. Still in all Thor is about 16 to 17 MPG.

Seals yes, guides no.

@Wet Vette just showed me a 2004 V8 Hemi Dodge for $3,500 on Facebook ads. Of course I've got no need for gasser...

Actually your looking at the back of the dash assembly. Like if you had the dash pull out of the truck as you see the path of the wires are backward mirror image. They are heading towards the bulk head connector on the driver side.

Should be...

Neither do I (no steering wheel controls) but still there is still a 2 wire connector with the 2 CCD Bus wires even on my truck. (vio/brn) and the (wht/blk) wires... ALL truck have this connector regardless of steering wheel controls.

Only shows when you hold the trip pin down, then turn the key on, then the odometer will say "Chec" when you release the lcuster does its test then completes. In the odometer display these 3 digit codes will be displayed. If none display the cluster is good. So again this points me at the PCM and ECM. Oh yeah the CCD bus on the stereo is a 2 pin plug. Same pair of wires as the ODBII plug. This was used for steering wheel control and so the digital signal could be recv'ed for volume up and down and tuner up and down on the steering wheel. If these 2 wires and shorting out because some one cut them up or hooked them to something could pull the CCD network down. (Errors).

Again Cluster codes (after the test completes) will only be 3 digit codes between 900 and 999... Not p codes.

Like a common issue is wrong final ratio to the ground. Really common for everyone to go for the "Cool Look" with bigger tires and lift kits. Right off the bat this destroys the final ratio and makes the truck work harder to get up to speed and generate more smoke because of virtual loading of the rolling resistance. Optimal final ratio is between 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after tires. Remember 3.55 gears with any size bigger than 265's will be dropping that final ratio. 245's tires will nearly bring you to 3.73 final. With the Quadzilla you can tune out a bunch of the smoke between the timing and fuel maps. As I've posted I'm maxed out at 28 MPG. I'm somewhere around 500 HP to the rear tires. Personally, I don't need twins for my setup even with last years trip to Arizona hauling my RV. Never had a EGTs issue at all. But again, I've got proper final ratio to the ground of 3.69:1 with the 245's tires. No EGT's issues here. If you lower ratio than 3.55 you will have EGT's issues. The other trick... You need to have a stock fuel zone. Like I'm running just 100% fuel on the CANBus table from 5 PSI to 15 PSI. Just stock power from the ECM and the 150 HP injectors. This keeps the EGT's down while flat driving. Now put it against a hill it will pull up into the 15 to 30 PSI part of the table and start to ramp up. Now if I was going all out and had wire tap on too then the wire tap is set to start at 15 PSI and ramp up with the CANBus together. Way better power and better Efficiency (MPG).

Regardless of who made the studs. The fact is head studs are harden studs and will not stretch at all they will break first. That why like my last head gasket failure for sure was gasket failure being the material de-laminated from the base metal gasket. I'm just finishing up doing a head gasket on a 1994 Dodge 12V Cummins with +150 HP injectors.

Cluster codes are not p codes... Then the codes range from 900 to 999.. Only 3 digits. So if there is no 900 to 999 codes then I'm stay in on the CCD network being the issue. You got to figure out what is messing with the line voltage if nothing can be found you might have to send the ECM and PCM for testing.

Did you test the cluster? Hold the trip pin down and turn the key on. It should say Chek then release. The test will running at the end report error codes in the odometer.

If I remember right it's 137 liters to fill our trucks.

No. Tricks or short cuts. Just filled with fuel, drove the distance and filled again. I need to restock on 2 cycle oil again. I really think the 3.69:1 final ratio helps a bunch just like what I did on Thor getting back to 3.73 final ratio. Both trucks run right at ~2,000 RPM at 65 MPH. Way less energy to keep moving, easier on the engine being in the torque curve and not too low in RPM.

"The Beast" Broke The High Mark 28.04 MPG On The Quadzilla! Notify - @Quadzilla Power Yup! The old high mark was 27.2 MPG with +75 HP injectors (Vulcan Performance) and Edge Comp. Now I did it with a Quadzilla, +150 HP DAP Injectors, HX35/40 Hybrid Turbo. Netting 28.04 MPG hand math, fill to fill! So I filled up in Riggins, ID and then drove to Donnelly, ID to get my paycheck for my last 2 weeks of work. Now returned home which included sitting in construction in McCall for about 15 minutes idling with A/C running. Next morning I got up and drove to Lewiston Idaho. When I got to Lewsiton, ID I was shocked to look down at just below 7/8 of tank and 236 miles. After I was done shopping I racked up 263 miles and I filled up again at 3.509 a gallon which is cheap compared to 4.209 up here at home. With fuel at $4 plus a gallon at home this truck is going to be my eco-friendly diesel truck. All I did was drive normally light acceleration, CANBus fuel only no wire tap used, and set the cruise for speed limit. Nothing fancy. Fuel gauge when I hit Lewiston, ID Then the Trip in miles and my odometer is on the mark... It is calibrated for my 245's tires. Then the data in my fuel log...

Cruise control, exhaust brake (optional), HVAC controls. Keep in mind the later 2nd Gens are fly by wire for cruise control on a manual.

Give me a little bit longer I'll have the database tested and setup for everyone to fill in vendors and give reviews for others.

I've been getting some work done on the vendor listing. I'm building the database frame that gives structure to the database. I'm trying to include all the methods of contacting a vendor or getting products from a vendor. Then also include a comment area so you can give honest reviews of vendor performance and products.

That tin foil between the VP44 and the block will do nothing. What does do something to keep fuel temp down is NOT pumping fuel from the sender basket. That is the hottest fuel and will soak the VP44 with even more heat. I pump fuel from the tank directly and return to the basket the fuel temps are roughly 20 to 25 degrees cooler this way. Even hauling my RV all the way to Arizona I never got over 140*F.

They could be... I've done several truck where your just changing injectors and having problems getting started because of weak starter, bad starter cables (positive or negative), bad starter brushes, bad starter solenoid contacts, etc. Speed is key to re-priming the system with the starter alone. Yes I'll admit I've had to dust the mouth of the turbo with a bit of starting fluid to get the truck started. Must of been another member I just read about compression being low so that is my mistake...