Mopar1973Man

First off let me say. I just had my transmission fluid change this summer. On my trip to Lewiston ID I had the Quadzilla on Level 2. I made it to the Casino outside of town and stop for a minute to grab a few things. Pulled back out on the highway rowed up through gear and it started clicking. WHAT?! Any gear had a very loud clicking noise even neutral as long as it rolling. I figure out pretty quick its was the input gear from the input shaft. Towed it home and pull the transmission. Yup you can twist the input and feel the gear is got broken teeth. NOTE: Remember the Quadzilla was on level 2 (stock fuel), fluid was just changed this summer and fresh and full. When I drained the fluid is was still clean but full of fine glitter. Now I opted for a different trans builder. I got a connection with a builder up near @Dynamic up there in Northeast Washington. The gents name is Jason Hammer. He dove in and looked over my transmission basically I wore the hard facing off the those gears with over 435k miles. Totally normal wear for those gear and distance since those gears never been changed. Now the countershaft is one unit and will be replaced as a full unit. I'll post up the carnage as soon as I go back up north 5 hours away to get my transmission. .

Weird I can run much lower in oil temp but being the oil levels where low it might make a difference. I typically float at 160 to 170*F engine oil temp with the sensor in the test port of the oil filter housing. I know this is the cooled oil from the oil cooler. Typically more advancement the higher my oil temp gets. When I've got my timing right the oil temp falls and drop to this lower levels. Kind of like my fuel temps are never higher than IAT temp and typically match for temperature after hours of driving. Coolant typically rides at 192*F to 197*F with a 190*F NAPA thermostat. I must be doing something right for 425 miles at a half tank. Gotta remember all the factory final ratio, tire sizes, rotational mass, etc. All impact the load on the engine. Any heat created in different places is sign of wasted energy that is converted into heat. Any high temps are a lost in efficiency. Even my trans temp is low.

You might have to get a ABS coder reader and see what the codes are being its a very random issue. Mine in the past was a bad tone ring in the right hand bearing in the front after replacing the wheel bearing both sides the code reset. Basically in a nutshell all 3 speed sensor (both front and rear axle) have to match to make the lights go off. Typically though the fronts are the source of the cause because if the rear was a problem the speedometer would act goofy. Meaning... The speedometer might sit at zero for extended period and then pop up later after movement started. Again this would be a bad rear sensor if so. ABS communication is not common so its special tool to read the ABS code. Even my Innova code reader has the function but not compatible with our year of Dodge. I heard that boom on one other truck which is some sort of after market device. This is not something that is normally heard.

Well I'm not have any problems and comparing @Sycostang67truck versus my own with the tires and current injectors his pulls good with the Edge CTS but very smokey. No way to reduce the smoke on his truck since I installed the 100 HP injectors. He also runs higher on EGT's. Remember I'm bigger at 150 HP injectors and very low smoke and at least 200*F lower EGT's.

First off... Does the speedometer work properly? If the speedometer works correctly then the rear sensor is fine but the front to are suspect. I've seen bad tone wheels in the unit bearings cause a ABS/BRAKE light. But other than that its one of the 3 sensors. Best to replace both fronts the same time. Typically if you replace one sensor the other old sensor will trip because it will not match speeds with the new one. Once you fix the ABS problem all you gotta do is turn the key on, start and move about 100 yards with a bit of speed and the light will reset on its own. Might check for error codes it might give more clues make sure to use a OBDII coder reader and not the key trick.

I've had mine have a weak ground which caused bucking initialize issues.

Double check your ground too.

I've done over a dozen W-T ground wire mods. I just measure voltage drop between the battery and block. Now I just add jump cables between battery negatives and so far on ALL the trucks I've done this too there is ZERO gains of parallel grounds between batteries. It does not change voltage drop or AC noise. The current flow does NOT use that parallel ground UNLESS on of the OEM grounds is bad on one side or having high voltage loss then you'll end up over loading the remaining cable with the parallel setup. I don't suggest it.

The newer head does both the WiFi and Bluetooth both. I've been beta testing on my truck and works really well.

Yeah the few that called me installed a sump then ended up with leaks later and now replacing the entire fuel tank. Very hard to find good fuel tanks in a salvage yard. I do not suggest or recommend a sump on any truck. Top draw is the best. The biggest problem no one knows out to properly install a straw. The first thing is measure on a empty tank ONLY! Make sure the entire tank is empty! Now lay a quarter (coin) on the bottom and measure to the thickness of a quarter. This is the tightest tolerance now. ONLY cut straight! No weird cuts at 45 or anything else. Now with the tank coming empty the straw will be able to draw up the last bit of fuel. Now on a full tank diesel is roughly 6.1 pounds per gallon. That roughly 213 pounds of fuel this will cause the bottom of the tank to deflect downward another roughly 1/4 to 3/8 of a inch so you'll never suck the straw to the bottom. I've been set up this way for over 15 years and never had big problems with getting to the EMPTY mark.

Basically the retard timing of common rail I've got the same thing on Thor (2006).

Be aware LED lighting will snow over in northern state and not clear. The HID can be snowed over but it takes much colder and heavy snow fall to cover over typically. Like my PIAA LED light will snow over being they do not create much heat at all.

Between getting the final ratio to 3.69 to the ground, with 30 inch tires (245/75 R16) then the injectors and the tune. Just look at my dash photo. Not many can do 425 miles at half tank.

Yeah but limits selection of replacement turbos being there is very few than can accept a turbo mount exhaust brake.

The only thing I'll suggest is stepping up to the Morimoto HID's. I did the D2S lens which cover everything in even light compared ot halogen or LEDs in stock housing that tend to do a poor pattern on the light. Then change the turn signal bulbs over to switch back LEDs and now your designed like modern vehicles with halo lights or daylight driving lights. I will say Morimoto D2S are expensive BUT worth every single penny for sure.

Nice job doing home build plumbing for that exhaust. It would be super cool to have all that finalized and then chromed. Then throw a heat shield on the pipe that is chromed too.

Personally... I would upgrade control arms so the bottom arm are adjustable to gain your caster back. Then I would do a adjustable track bar to gain your thrust angle back. Got to remember there is some of us that don't get death wobble or have front end issues that require these mods. This just points out there is a geometry issue that has be created by customization. I'm completely stock front end. Never had death wobble. Still stock tie rod setup, still stock track bar, still stock steering (blue top quick ratio). Consider what you've changed you'll find your issue. Making more and more changes on top of a problem you will chase your tail trying to fix. 435k miles still rolling...

+150 HP I can lay my foot WOT and never reach 1,200°F. I've ran all the way to Arizonia in summer temps and never got over 1,200°F climbing grades with my 31 foot RV. Proper timing, proper gear makes a huge difference even MPG wise. Average 65 MPH is about 550°F EGTs. Oh skip Cummins OEM head gaskets, there is much better out there. After having one delaminate in under 1,000 miles.

Like I'm wanting to modify my setup. I'm going to build a locking dog house for my generator so it remains outside. My inverter had an auto start feature so if power goes out it can start either gas or diesel generator. Just wire up the auto start feature so when house loads are high enough it just starts on it own. No setup like now, roll it out the man door start it up and plug in. I get the natural gas prime problem I've got the same thing in my RV nothing works till the stove burns a bit.

Just my combo puts me close to 500 HP. Quadzilla adrenaline, DAP +150 HP injectors (7x0.010) , HX35/40 hybrid turbo. The best part was breaking my old highmark of 27.2 MPG to 28.04 MPG.

I would better to change the full turbo and exhaust brake reducing more restriction. Get away from the exhaust brake limitations of the turbos that only fit my set up.

Yeah but need to replace the exhaust brake because I have to keep the stock turbine housing. So it close to 2500 dollar upgrade needed.

I'll be the first to admit reaching 50 PSI of boost on a 12 cm2 housing is bad and blew my head gasket. On top running 29 degrees @ 3k. Even with studs I'm limited to 35 PSI now till I can get a bigger turbo and a in line exhaust brake. But the side effect of my setup is 28.04 Highmark MPG. 425 miles on a half tank.

Sorry to hear anyone have a loss. @dripley we are all here if you need a shoulder.

I would but If I need support ill never get it. I've been banned on Smarty side. Not to mention the cost is just out of hand.