Mopar1973Man

Well S__t! That means all my fuel logs are junk. All my travels are next to a river. Big Salmon River, Little Salmon River, Snake River, Weiser River, Payette River. Come to think about it there isn't much highways out here without a river closely following by.

Best I can say is use a test light and see where the power stops. Just remember the ballast creates a nice 70 to 90 volts.

Same here from Donnelly ID to Home by Pinehurst.

Quadzilla Adrenaline does not flash anything to the ECM. Like @Dieselfuturemention above that it just modifies the ECM signal and send the modified info as a priority message. Now if you build a good tune it will be pretty much smokeless and even better MPG and performance than factory tune could. You would have to either HIDE the Quadzilla completely or just remove it before going for smog testing. Yes your completely safe with the Quadzilla. It does not flash any code or alter any software on the ECM.

Two methods of deletes. Physical deletes of the emissions Software delete of the emissions When you do the software method nothing is removed from the truck so it visually passes the inspection. Software is turned off to all the emissions systems. It will still regen but much much less. I will not suggest any physical deletes because of the amount of equipment that is removed and will not pass a visual inspection. I've done it both way now and software method is the fastest and easiest to do just need to flash the ECM with a delete tune. If for any reason you need to return to OEM stock tune the tuner will flash it all back to functional. All the emission system will be back on line. Takes less than 15 minutes to do.

One of the few reasons I've never been a big Smarty fan being that their tune is basically starting the CanBus fuel way above 100% which a good clean tune should not start that high. I might start out lower but once I meet my power point which is set for 15 PSI. This is where my CanBus and wiretap meet together and ramp up together its a rather wicked power. 80% to 100% to 5 PSI 100% from 5 PSI to 15 PSI Stock ECM fuel 100% to 150% from 15 PSI up to +30 PSI. Then I set the Wire tap to start at 15 PSI and run all the way to 40 PSI. The other half is make sure your 1,500 RPM band starts at 13 degree. Then you want a good health drop in timing. It will spool very rapid. More retard the quicker to spool this is due to putting more of the expanding gases in the exhaust manifold.

Timbos APPS uses mechanical means to set the IVS switches. Then the rest is rheostat that controls throttle. So the rheostat part you can watch with a live data tool and the IVS is a bit tough but you should get a normal idle at 800 RPM if the IVS is working right. If not it could possibly idle higher above 800 RPM if not.

Naw not really... I was still standing in the middle of town. Naw. I can get that head off in about 2 hours. It takes even longer to put it all together though. Not the only solution and not the best either. Just because everyone flocks to Cummins like its the best product. You have to remember Cummins doesn't manufacture a lot of parts they buy parts by other manufactures and put there name on it. Remember the big thread about thermostats. Cummins to this day does not manufacture any thermostats. But in the time that I've owned my truck they sold 4 different thermostats by 4 different manufacture names, like the current thermostat manufactured by Mr Gasket. But hey you said Cummins is quality...

Exactly what I said.

(Shaking my head) Yup. Head gasket blew out again. This time it was a defective gasket. The composite material on the steel plate separated and blew out. Thursday night I gather up my RV and hitched it up and hauled it out to the forest at Smokey Boulder Rd. Came back home the next day I got off work and grabbed The Beast and rolled into town to get fuel. I seen Fire Chief's wife getting diesel fuel. Pulled into Riggins One Stop and parked as I got out I was teasing Matt that was sitting outside smoking a cigarette. I walked over and talled to Melanie about Fire Dept Business. After about 15 minute I walk back over and my truck is leaking. Matt said it was like 5 minutes after I got out of the truck it was dripping. The only thing I noticed was the radiator cap was wet. Released the pressure and checked the level little low but good. Drove over to the store less than a mile and engine was dripping again dripping. I took a good look and sure enough the head gasket separated from the metal plate and blew out. So here we go... Take notice ot the missing chunk of gasket above the tear. That is is steel plate in that gap. No, its not suppose to separate like that. I got ahold of @dieselautopower and talked to Mitchell. I walked out shot this photo and texted it to Mitchell and he said he would call and talk to the head gasket supplier. At 12 noon I got a text back stating the new gasket is on its way. It wonderful have Diesel Auto Power as a part supplier... Thank you gang for handling this for me! Sad part is I got to start all over and do this all over again...

Seems weird. I like the switch back style more so. Clear visible change from white to amber.

You want a cheaper DLR solution? Like myself on my 2002 I use Switch Back Bulbs in the front marker / turn signal. So when I turn on my parking lamps (no headlights) the front bulbs light up in white light. Now turn on a turn signal and BAM! The bulb with change from white to flashing amber. When its cancelled then the bulb switches back to white. No need to burn lots of watts of power when you could save it and use LEDs that barely burn anything. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/3157-switchback-led-bulb-dual-function-60-smd-led-tower-a-type-wedge-retrofit-rvb/2424/12762/ My trick was going to add a diode into the front marker light lead. Then be able to inject the +12V to the bulbs without lighting up the tail lights.

Just need to install a drive pressure gauge in the exhaust manifold. Make sure to add a cooling coil before and plastic tubing.

Lets say with the aggressive tune I managed to blow the head gasket at 50 PSI but I'm pretty sure it was the drive pressure that got it. I would suggest 40 to 45 PSI as a limit.

Sad to hear. But it is repairable.

All round me... INCIweb... McCall ID at the city park. New Meadows Valley looking north towards home at Pollock Mountain. Look close on the left side of the highway it barely an outline... Climate change just get the fires put out and the smoke and CO2 levels would drop here quickly. But we all know these fires will burn till end of season around September. Sure not diesel trucks causing global warming.

I don't think so. When the ASD failed on mine is was NOT charging at all but the was a ASD relay code as well. After swapping it started charging again. Your and mine failed the same way the armature shorted out. The created a ton of heat with the short and then in my case it ate the PCM with a massive hole through the PCM. My alternator was about 400*F when I pulled it out.

What about my 2006 Dodge. Its low mileage (232k) like yours and the previous owner abused it. How do you eat an entire clutch in under 30k miles? Thor gets worked pretty good daily. Hauling my tools to the job site every day and travelling 100 miles per day at least. It tips the scale close to 10,000 pound with the steel flat bed and the two toolbox loaded with tools. Currently the only problem is the wastegate solenoid is throwing a code so my boost is limited to 20 PSI and EGT's sore past 1,450*F easy. I've gotta climb a 7% grade every day. Also sporting 26k towing tags on Thor and Beast. Beast on the other hand has been worked hard for the last five years tending to @MoparMom. Just that time I managed to rack up another 250k miles on the odometer now crossing 432k miles. Currently Beast has had a vacation parked in the yard. I've got a few repairs to do for that truck and then its going to be weekend warrior truck for pulling the RV. Another thing @Wet Vette and I talked about is no longer trying to cram the shopping all in one day. Just too hard when you wait 2 weeks and got many stops. So we are going to haul the RV down and the we can just stay in it shop for a couple of days then haul it all home in the RV. Between my hips and lower back and Eileen's shoulder and hip giving her problems. Now the truck that is really sad is Lil Red the 1996 Dodge its not been started in over 2 months and soon I want to get it ready for sale. I need a friend to look it over and help me out with a bit of paint and touch up the hood and the roof. Sell the truck. Now Lil Red was a good truck for many years has giving me little problems. Nothing major. 188k miles on this on but I'll admit my fuel logs show it getting between 14 to 16 MPG. 5.9L Magnum V8 engine and a Dynamic modified transmission.

For sure it was the ASD relay for the charging issue. I just hauled my RV out to Smokey Boulder and grabbed a camping spot last night near where I'll be cutting wood. The whole trip out with the truck no issues charging. Just weird that PCM controls the ASD and it controls the Alternator.

Mechanics privilege... Your truck was a pleasure to drive. @IBMobile Very true. I use 1,200F as a safety net for long pulls. But passing 1,200F for a short times say a few second to pass another vehicle no problem. Even my 2002 I've gone past 1,400F a few times making passes. No issue. I just watch coolant temp and engine oil temp. Typically the 2002 is a bit lower than most for oil temps. As for the 2006 that truck does pass the 1,400F rather easy if the check engine light is on. Even when everything is working there is more wiggle room for EGT's. Just going to have to pony up for a new wastegate solenoid.

Now how about the performance for the lights? Photos needed...

Yup. I cant remember exactly I think DPF and Urea was in 2012? (IIRC). My 06 is without EGR and all the emission stuff. It does have a in cylinder EGR event where the exhuast lobe is a shorten.

Still much more room in the back seat area than any 2nd gen. I grab a photo of Thor when the sun comes up more. Heck this morning there is 10 gallons of 15w-40 in the back seat.

I know down south you guys get lots and lots of bugs with swamps and more humid. There is times when we get big waves of bugs. I've tried the screens but always metal screens. The hold up the best. The second part is don't attach the screen to the coolers but to the grill. Now the bug are easy to hose off the grill and not risk damage to the coolers. Biggest impact that I took in the grill was a Grouse. I think the metal screen prevent the bid from getting through the plastic.

Very odd design on the engine. Would of been better with 4BT Cummins.