Mopar1973Man

Just to keep posting going I'm going to tell what I've got in mind. So instead of dedicated screen for back up camera I've been looking at clip rear view camera that record both forward and rearward. I'm actually looking for one so I could do something like @IBMobilewhere the rear camera can be WiFi and remote mount in the rear window of the RV possibly. Then have a second mount on the truck possibly. This covers both forward and rearward views. Already got my radar detector hanging from the rear view mirror and the emergency red light hidden behind the rear view mirror. https://www.amazon.com/TOGUARD-Control-Cameras-Waterproof-Assistance/dp/B0899J7471/ To this day I've never found a really good reason for air bag as of yet. Even towing my big 31 foot RV I don't normally have a lot of front to rear rocking. I would most likely skip the air bag still after 423k miles without air bags. My Mopar1973Man High Idle is hidden in the pouch of the dash. It hangs downward with the knob from the top of the pouch that manuals have. Nobody even knows that is there. Nice hiding spot for the switch. Pouch is still in the dash. Manual CAD cable. Thank gawd I've got solid axles I hate that design and still do... I have guys constantly coming with vacuum issues or CAD diaphragm issues. That one less on my dash. To this day ZERO 4WD issues yet with solid axles. Even on my 1996 With CAD axle I've still got issues with it locking and unlocking the axle. Converted the cigarette light over to USB QC3 ports with a volt meter. I'm going to change the power point over to another USB QC3 port without a display being that circuit is +12V hot constantly. This will get rid of all the cigarette light USB chargers I've got. Like my Radar was a cigarette light powered. I went on Amazon and convert it to a directed wired device. https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Hard-Wire-Radar-Detectors/dp/B004AMBW1U/ One day I want to do another mod of the exhaust brake switch. The shift rod would be replaced with gas pipe and the wires ran inside the pipe up to the shift knob and have the exhaust brake switch either in the knob or just below with the typical switch. My stereo was a good choice the Kenwood Bluetooth model is really good at playing my music from my phone but just as I bought that stereo Google Play (Music Player) was obsoleted. I had to download a different player to play my massive amount of MP3 files. I got Audify Music Player off of Android play. https://audifyplayer.com/ As for the Kewood playing Spotify or Pandora isn't working correctly being the Kenwood app is not designed for my Samsung S10+ Android 10 software it was designed for older software.

I know that feel all so well. It seem like your just a kid a just a few years ago. All you wanted to do is grow up so you could drive, drink, etc. Now you past that markers and it seem like time flies by now at super sonic speed. Hard for me to believe I made to 50 years old. Week blow on by and I'm here going it Friday I can do... OPPS! Actually is Saturday and it closed.

Easy pull the alternator field lead (blue and green wires) and see if the problem goes away. APPS being weird the only thing I can suggest is replacement.

Not sure about the alternating grid heaters either you could test for that by using a test light and probe the two trigger posts on the solenoids to see what is going one. Still in all the testing should be done on a fully warmed truck that has been driven till full operation temperature. Regardless the first start up the batteries are drawn down deeply between the pre heat grid heaters and the cranking over. This is not a fair test. Again make sure to drive the truck till completely warm and then leave it run and do your test again. This should be unloaded alternator with everything turned off.

Go warm up the truck and drive it. Once full warmed up now test. Again with grid heater running and engine is cold the batteries are cold so high numbers are seen. Drive it and warm it up and leave it run now test your AC noise again. At this point the grid heater are disabled and batteries should be charged and engine is warmed.

Normal to see the spike but the amount is the problem. Since there is no way to evenly load the system there is no way to test the alternator at home. Like if I turned on everything in my truck with LED lights and HID headlights will have lower load vs your truck. So of course my ac noise voltage is much lower. I can't say only my values work. This where you need to bench test the alternator before leaving the store if it passing then your fine. But yes its normal for AC noise to rise with grid heaters. This is another reason why I unhook mine in the summer no need to add stress to the alternator diodes. This is why we made the home test unloaded so there is just resting alternator and measure the AC voltage. Since there is no way to even load evbery truck and get the same results to the same test. Even grid heaters could fire 1 or 2 elements depending on the temp at start time. IAT controls pre-heat. Then Battery Temp controls post heat.

Typically even a store would fail above about 1.2 volts AC noise (not really sure). You might have it tested again and see if it passes of fails.

I'm sorry to hear about this. After dealing with my own bladder cancer I really do understand what your up against. Good wishes and all I can say is don't give up. Keep a positive thought every day no matter how bad it gets. As long as you keep your focus on getting better it will give you the strength to endure what your starting.

Like myself I run level 2 on Quadzilla. More or less its stock fuel with your lead in de-fuel curve. More than enough power for daily driving. If I need a booster shot to pass long truck or series of cars. Yup. I tap the Quadzilla up to level 7 (100% wire tap). Then drop the hammer and let her eat. The level 2 is capped out to 100% fuel that all no added CANBus or wiretap. This allows me to be that sleeper truck... Always a bit of fun...

There is a key switch on both sides for arm and disarm.

Even with a #5 injector line leaking will make a clutch slip. I'm watching and learning because someday I know I'll find a guy that needs a crank seal next. Matter of fact I should dive into that Ford 7.3L and do a crank seal.

Yeah when I burned up the PCM and I stuck the new alternator in of course it wouldn't charge without the +12V to the field. So I drove from Ontario OR to Parma ID to get to friends place for help. About half way there the volt gauge fell to 8 Volts and chime went off and I looked down at the Digital display on my USB charge port and it just fell from 12.00 to 11.99 volts. It will not come back up till the voltage is back above 12.00 again. It a dead clue something is wrong with that fuse/breaker if the CHECK GAGE light comes on and volt gauge is sitting on 8.

LOL... No joke I've got Eileen's Son (Jacob) his 7.3L Ford F350 sitting in my yard with one crappy injector. I'm planning on crawling out in the morning and doing passenger head of injectors in the snow storm that is coming. This should be award winning... Then slide indoors and do the power steering pump and pull my steering box and have it looked at by Ryan. Troublesome output shaft seal. So my truck will be down for some time. Then I got Eileen's son which wants to learn diesel so I've been working with him and letting him turn wrench for me. Small bonus nice to have young blood wanting to learn. Me... I never got anything done today but two trips to McCall for parts and meds for the family. Now I'm wore out and just trying to get warmed up again. Hips and lower back are sore now and just time to quit for the day and let my body heal a little bit. I'll admit still later tonight I will fire up the cannabis and relax just a bit. Right now I'm going to work on the web site and fix more tidbit and get it running better.

Start out at 13° at 1,500 RPM and step up +4 or +4.5... Your first step up from 15 to 20 is too wide (+5°) even for my truck. 13.0°, 17.0°, 21.0°, 25.0° is +4° 13.0°, 17.5°, 22.0°, 26.5° is +4.5° Starting out above 14° tend to make the bottom end doggy.

Me it mostly all long hour standing under two post lift in weird position because I stand taller than lift can lift. If I work from home its lots of kneeling on bumper and laying over the top or laying under. My next project is a power steering pump. Ugh... So my lower back and my hips are always sore.

Stock injectors require long duration of being open to make the same amount of fuel. @LorenSYou might want to nudge the cruise timing up some more you notice the engine load may drop a bit more. If you notice the rattle is way more pronounced and then engine load seem to climb a bit your at your limits and need to back down again. Here is my latest Economy tune... Cruise timing at +6°...  I've ran the cruise timing at +4° for the last tank barely made 17 MPG. Now jumped up to +6° cruise timing and now the EGT's dropped really good and the engine oil temp rose about 5° roughly. So now I'm advanced about as far as I want to go. The rattle is more pronounced but EGT's are down, boost is down, and engine oil temp rose slightly. MPG appears to be better now and gaining above 19 MPG rough fuel gauge / odometer math. Here is today's weather...

I've had to wait for exhaust system for a local job because of limited material caused from the COVID-19 shut down. I still have issues getting parts in any timely fashion at all. Even just a fan belt for Dodge Dakota took me a full week to get here. Local stores didn't have it.

Yeah that is signs of low pop pressure and larger droplets are hard to burn. Takes more time to heat the droplet to vapor, to make it go BANG! Finer mist always will run cooler and smoother. Lower pop pressure enhances fuel flow, Higher pop pressure enhance MPG and clean exhaust, lower EGT's. People tend to forget the pop pressure is the starting point of when it opens period. The maximum pressure of the injection pump is well above 18,000 PSI at WOT....

Tip: Thew volt gauge will fall to 8 and set the CHECK GAGE light when the voltage drops from 12.00 to 11.99 volts.

I know the feeling to certain degree. Being I've been under a 2 post the weird standing positions you create to reach this bolt or that nuts pays a toll on your body. Time to slow down even more Mike. I know you wired the same way I am we keep working till the job is done but it might come at the cost of your body or health. Just slow down.

Specification right out of the Dodge FSM... The difference is so minimal... 1 Bar is 14.5 PSI 310 bar = 4496.17 PSI 320 bar = 4641.21 PSI 293 bar is the bottom limit by Dodge FSM (-250 PSI) 300 bar is what builders use (Shorter life span of about 50k to 60K) 305 bar is what builders use (shorter life span of about 70k to 80k ) 310 bar is equal to 4500 PSI - Stock pressure 320 bar is equal to 4641 PSI 327 bar is the upper limit by Dodge FSM (+250 PSI) The only reason builders go low they can hence the flow by going lower in pressure. This makes for a very large droplets and more smoke. Going up makes the atomaztion cleaner and slightly less fuel sprayed. Once you drop below 290 bar the injectors are getting even more smoke. By 280 your start to get a miss at idle. There is nothing gained by low pop pressure injectors but extra smoke and lower MPG's, high EGT's. I towed my RV to Arizona last summer and did over 14.7 MPG on my highest MPG. Averaged 12.6 for the trip to Arizona from Idaho. EGT's would not cross 1,200*F with my cruise set for 65 MPH. 320 bar Injectors are not the cause. The pump goes all the way up to over 18k to 21k roughly in pressure what it can build with WOT. 4 Ways to kill a VP44... Low fuel pressure High AC noise Low Lubricity of fuel Poor fuel filters I've been running 320 bar for 3 years just about now. Over 100k on the VP44 because I didn't tap till after 100k miles. Pop pressure is not the cause... We had people test all the way to 360 bar. Then 330 bar is nearly impossible in subzero to start. 320 bar is clean spray and starts all the way to -40*F which I've tested personally over 3 winters. Remember the Dodge FSM upper limit is 327 bar which I'm still under that limit. Now remember you can lose up to 10 bar in just the break in period of the injectors. Just ask @pepsi71ocean about what the pop pressure was after 28k miles...

Wow that's a lot of stuff there...

Either way will work just remember to buy a extra fuse to keep in the truck.

Down at the wye of the cables you got to have a sharp knife or cutter and cut the friction tape and the cable comes right out. I've done a few of these mods and they ttypically work out good. I've done one in Ontario, OR and it worked out good and finished in just over an hour to do the project. I've done my landlord for my other shop his turned out good but the circuit breaker wouldn't hold his loads for what ever reason. I had to install a fuse on the passenger side and it worked fine.

Why? All done for you... I've got my switch hidden in the pouch in the dash. Never know its even there. The bonus to the high idle switch you can do many other task with it. Some of the features and how they help. Cool down a hot cab in the summer. Set for 6 CYL and start the truck with MAX A/C on and it will cool down quickly. Working with a winch you can set 6 CYL mode and keep the alternator charging strong on the batteries while working the winch. Jump start another vehicle. This is so nice hook up and set 6 CYL and let it charge up and start the dead vehicle. 3 CYL mode and exhaust brake I can produce up to 1,000*F EGT's and warm up a cold engine in a mere 8 to 10 minutes from -20*F to 170*F coolant temp. Select the MPG mode and the IAT is forced up to 143*F so the ECM RETARDS the timing in the winter time giving roughly 2 MPG gain. 6 CYL mode is locked as long as the switch is left in the 6 CYL position. If you turn it off after starting you can have it auto cancel at 170*F coolant temp.