Mopar1973Man

Nope not at all. A customer coming to get work done and camp out. Not unheard of. I just had @JAG1 and @IBMobile here last time. @IBMobile on the left and @JAG1 on the right. Just fixing my power window for me. With me there is limited cell signal but heading toward bigger cities no problem. Nice ot have a streaming music and different music now and then. My MP3 pile is huge (37.6 GB) and well played.

If we could get together I would demo it all you wished. Actually its pretty cheap when you compare HP/per dollar. Quadzilla is the biggest HP tuner for our truck at 180 HP possible. Where Edge Products being next in line at 150 HP and still $1,050 for less. Quadzilla is $699. Less money more from the tuner. Really wanna feel the pinch... Smarty Touch as a complete package is next to $1,800 for the full tuning ability but it still only 60 HP tuner. You need to add in the EGT probe which is extra, the unlocking dongle so you can program, then buy any VIN licenses so you can program. Smarty Touch is the most expensive for a tuner for our truck. But for CR engines its 200 HP roughly. Smarty Touch is just a very expensive Smarty S-03.

I am one of the few people. I'm not in Cally though but I do know where you at being it was once one of my old stomping grounds years ago. I could help you build a tune not much in it. Basically for timing you want the lowest engine load. Building tunes tends to take some time and testing so it not a instant build its several days of different conditions and work loads and see how it fairs. I can say you can crank up a lot of timing without much worry. It just getting it efficient and keeping logs so you can track it.

There is a rebuilder for just about anything out there you just gotta hunt around for one of these rebuilders. The only reason I spit that out so quick I used this very company to fix a injection pump on a 1984 Case C580 backhoe. The fly weight spring inside the governor was failed. Then ended up with a misfire and then found OEM injector that was defective missing a hole. Suppose to be 4 hole injectors and one only had 3 holes. This job was up in Anatone WA.

Well first it would be good if I got it finish first. If you really want to come out you got the spot under the tree there is 15A 120V power. Not bad, fair price. Just seems after that China radio which was feature rich for just a mere $29. Just the quality was really quite poor. Then hunt for a quality radio was on. Boss was one high on the list but mostly for the dual DIN stereo with a video screen. I kept filtering down the single DIN stereos looking. Needing to keep the hands free feature for phone use was important. Being a whole new line of stereos came out with Pandora and Spotify controls was more what I was after. Both are free music sources and work very well on my phone as well at home with my computer and Smart TV. I'll say this much don't try to set up the stereo with the face controls the menus are just too many. The Kenwood Remote App all you to connect to the stereo and configure light colors, speaker options etc on a touch screen of your phone is much easier.

Yes for now... Will upgrade soon... I've got a Amp in the shop I might just consider stuffing in. Sure. Actually I'm horsetrading right now for the dirt work and getting the water and power brought out to the spot.

Yes sir. Another member here @pepsi71ocean had a set of 100 HP injectors by DAP after 28k miles the pop pressure fell below 280 bar and start having stalling issues. Once re-popped stall issue went away. This just points out that new injectors can settle and drop nearly 10 bar in 30k miles. It happens. Heck even my previous +75HP (7 x 0.0085) only last 70k miles and start misfiring at idle hot. Again pop pressure was below 270 bar. One of my few reason with the 150 HP (7 x 0.010) I had popped at 320 bar giving me more longevity for these injectors. Cleaner spray less smoke. Problem is I do not suggest raising the pop pressure on anything less than 100 HP.

Well that cheap China radio pissed me off enough that it found my knuckles in the middle of the display and killed it. First I only paid $29 bucks for that cheap radio. It did work good for a while. First problem is the FM tuner quit. Then I had my back up camera crushed. Then the finally straw is the software error and locked up so you can't turn it on or off. You have to have a paperclip to reboot the software. Pow! Light out and done I quit! Dug around on Amazon and websites. I did a dig on the best 10 bluetooth stereos. Kenwood BT572-U is in the top ten. I wanted something that could control Pandora, Spotify, XM possibly. Found it. This radio is AM/FM as well. CD and MP3 player (disc). Then it has full bluetooth audio for both phone and music. The Pandora and Spotify are USB controlled. I've got a few software bugs yet setting up like Pandora for car launching. Other than that I'm impressed. I did a test phone call from the garage to Eileen in the bedroom she said the audio is much cleaner less static and background noises. Kenwood stereo comes with a cab mount mic for phone calls. Instead of having a remote for the stereo you use your phone as the remote if needed. All controls can be adjust through your phone much easier. There is no face plug like my previous stereos even my past Kenwood had USB and Audio IN in the front. This one has a USB plug in the back on a short cord about a foot long. This is the port I used for my phone in its craddle. Now that leaves an extra port now in the Quick Charger 3.0 in the dash. This Kenwood can handle 2 phones on bluetooth allowing a second person to play music as well. All you phone contact are diplayed on the stereo and are searchable for phone calls. Either resent calls or the full contact list. The other neat part is the CD slot is fully covered so dust isn't a huge issue like my previous Kenwood which I had to clean the eject roller often.

Like myself I typically run the Quad Headless. In other word I don't alway have the iQuad App running. Maybe want to listen to music. Maybe I don't want my phone display on all the time. Then I fall back to my normal gauges which are accurate. I can see ther important stuff like Boost, fuel pressure and EGT's on the a-pillar. Those gauges have warning light so I never really look at them hard. The red warning lamp and it level tells what is wrong. Here is the post on how to program ISSPro Gauges EV2

Any injection pump rebuilder would have that exact piece. I've got Idaho Diesel Technologies in Lewiston, ID would have that in stock right now. 129 20th St N, Lewiston, ID 83501 (208) 746-4422 Talk to Rick good man knows his injection pumps.

Repop or test the injectors to verify pop pressure are good.

Too many forget to change brake fluid every 30k miles. I'm betting that the front caliper pistons are caked up and need to be cleaned and new 5 dollar seal dropped in. Be done and fixed. If you keep your brake fluid changed before it darken to black it will reduced this problem. I only had caliper problem in the beginning. No longer now that I keep brake fluid changed every 30k miles. Not even a problem with full stroke of the brake pedal, the master cylinder is still OEM. 419k miles later...

Injectors are only good for 100k miles. Maybe 150k miles. Those are completely shot. No. Injectors are wasted. That why the heat. The injector pop pressure fell below minimum pressure long time ago like 200k miles ago. Even my OEM stock went 150k miles but when I had them tested by DAP my OEM stock at 150k miles where at 260 bar. The minimum bar is 293 bar.

At least there is a sway bar to buy... Keep looking I'm sure there is a offroad company with a economy sway bar.

Better to have gauges. Personally. Boost on the Quadzilla reports Im reaching 69 PSI of boost when the gauge shows 45 to 47 actually. Not the Qaud per se it the MAP sensor. Its good till about 25 PSI after that it skews for me.

Stock turbo with +50 HP injectors are fine. Turbo only considered after about 100 to 150 HP injectors. Your stock HY35 turbo will be fine for about 300 to 350 HP total.

Try DOR (Dodge Off Road)? Might check some of the offroad part suppliers might have something.

418k miles changed every 30k miles. OEM pump is still going. Using only PETROLEUM Walmart Super Tech or NAPA power steering fluid. Steering box was in excellent condition when Ryan at @Blue-Top Steering got mine just needed new seals and he sold my old box in mere minutes of getting my box. I upgraded to quick ratio. So I'm never suggest synthetics because is much cheaper to change often with petroleum than spending big money on synthetics that your going to waste in changing every 30k miles. Basically for my old travels that was every 6 months being I covered close to 60k to 65k a year. I might still be at that level being all the long haul I've been doing. 418k miles... That should say quite a bit.

No good... Unless totally stock and never plan on upgrading period. No way to adjust timing to fit you upgrades. One reason why I dropped the Edge Comp. Once I got to +50HP injectors the timing was all wrong. more smoke and retarded timing. So you end up upgrading twice because the tuner is just a canned tune for stock injectors. Timing is the biggest factor to EGT's and MPG's. If you can't adjust the timing you typically sub-optimal... The only way to keep it under control is drive 55 MPH as a max speed. Once your engine load is above 20% or so the cruise timing is gone. Again canned tuner don't allow for this adjustment. So like I've got a towing tune (Adrenaline) with the cruise limit opened to 33% engine load, again canned tuners (XZT or EZ) can't do this.

Did you re-calibrate the ABS? For that rev per mile?

Diesel Auto Power. 7 x 0.010 Injector popped at 320 bar. New idle was about 13 to 14%. Now its about 7 to 9% engine load without A/C. I'm coming to the end on my injectors too maybe another year and be washed out. These will barely make 3 years and 120k miles.

You won't need the turbos if you get the Quadzilla. There is more to it. Like I've change my final ratio. Ditched the 265's and then put on 245/75 R16 30.5" inch tires. This dropped the temp another 100*F towing EGT's. Larger tires than 265's will add EGT's and coolant temp 30 tires tow way easier and better MPG at 14.7 MPG MAX and 12.6 MPG AVG. Basically all I did was remove all my drag to gain performance. For every 1 pound of rotational mass you ditch is like 8 pounds off the frame. Big tires, lift kits, etc all add drag and engine load. This in turn creates mass heat. With the current ratio of 3.69:1 to the ground my RPMs are.... 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM 82 MPH at 2500 RPM This is optimal. Lower RPM's cause excessive loading and more heat. Higher you stand in the wind is more drag on the truck.

31 foot living area. 296 Cubic feet. Typically really close to 8,000 to 8,500 pounds (GVWR). Fifth wheels are heavier. I only need 15% on the ball or 1,275 pounds on the truck. Where as a 5th wheel is more like 25% that is 2,125 pound on the truck. Then on top I can't carry a ATV in the bed with a 5th wheel. That is another 900 pounds cargo in the truck bed. This can put me close to 20,000 pounds depending on how much more stuff I pack in the truck. I'm registered for 26,000 pounds. Last camp trip to Lost Valley I was very close to 20,000 pounds. Big BBQ pit, firewood, fuel for the ATV, and the ATV loaded in the bed. This can't be done with a 5th wheel. As for EGT's and coolant that is mostly timing... Get your timing set correctly for the Quadzilla and the EGT's fall like a rock. I've done a bit more tweaking lately and my empty flat ground cruise EGT's are like 500 to 550*F now. Towing I hover about 700*F to 800*F at 65 MPH.

Bigger turbo means more lack and more smoke till it spools. Smaller turbos spool faster but cap out early and start to choke on the exhaust side causing heat. I'm towing larger trailers with HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) this coupled with the Quadzilla Tuner there is no need for bigger turbos too much you can tune most of the heat out with timing and change in fuel map. I was 17,300 pounds going to Mohave Valley AZ and never had a single EGT problem even with climbing all the way to 7,200 feet summit. My problem was transmission heat which was high but damaging 190 to 200*F. 7 x 0.010 Injectors (150 HP) popped at 320 bar. Quadzilla Adrenaline (My Towing tune) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 4 Inch exhaust (with exhaust brake) BHAF stock air system (excluding turbo) Me on the far left... 62 foot long and no issues.

Bearings on the main shaft are in the wrong position. This would mean that 4th gear should be the same issue being it pushed in the same direction. If not then something on the main shaft is not assembled right or out of order.