Mopar1973Man

Then the 10 to 12 earthquakes didn't help either. Mostly based out of Stanley ID area. Ranging 3.0 to 4.0 magnitude. Then is slid out and crushed that steel container like a plastic toy.

Extra ground strap between batteries is not going to make it better. That just points out the master grounds to the block are weak.

Still going to be a yellow mess... Being the bulb itsself will not produce any more light. 9004 and 9007 bulbs (1,500 lumens). The reflectors are still low quality and the pattern will be hot spotted. lot of scattering around the rim. The thing is the HID's I'm running are 4,000 lumens (Morimoto D2S HID's) this is a 35w ballast. These are 4,500 Kelvin color. Yeah I know everyone dislikes LEDs. 1996 Dodge 1500 is a standard headlight reflector (clear lens) but running a 4,000 lumens LED bulb (18 watts). Now you changing the light color with LEDs 7,200 kelvin color (bluish white) mere 18 watts vs. halogen at 2,500 Kelvin Color (orange/yellow warm color) using 55/60 watts. I'll try and remember tonight to fire up the 1996 Dodge and show the LED pattern.

Rolled through today and grab a few photos but only one is worth a darn... Look at that cargo container...

I tend to prefer soldering. The reason for soldering is the terminal is welded on and provides a solid connection that can never fail. Where a crimp can corroded between the wire and the crimp and later on fail. With solder filling the voids and welding the wire to the crimp there is no way for the crimp to slide off or corrode between. The solder seals the wire from wicking in any corrosive materials like battery acid as well. Like my solar / hydro system has 2/0 cables all soldered between each. 25 years later the cables are still sealed and no corrosive has enter under the jack of the cable. Also these are lead acid batteries (1,000 pounds) which never venting corrosive vapors if charged correctly. Then an update with the truck... All solder connections. All solid and clean yet. Passenger side with alternator charge lead on the positive post. Also take notice I've got ZERO corrosion on the battery and not venting anything. These are 8 years old. This is the second year of the W-T ground wire mod. Driver side battery. Terminals still in excellent condition. No corrosion or venting of acids. ECM and VP44 gorund still clean and tight. Here is the ground point. I will admit this ground cable could wick in acids easy being the solder doesn't make the jacket of the wire.

I've got to roll into town today for a job... I'll grab my camera and shot a few photos. Take a look at the containers these are shipping containers that were shoved out from the large rock fall. Give new perspective of the size of the rocks vs a normal semi-truck container. You see the temporary dirt road below, the highway is more inward towards the hillside barely see the south bound lane shoulder.

What I try to encourage is you to play with setting in a control environments. Like quiet streets or back roads in farm country. Every truck is different in what it likes to be tuned. For what ever reason my truck loves the 23 to 24 degree around 2,000 RPM. The engine load drops out very low, engine oil temps drop into the 160 to 170 realm. My economy tune has the wiretap late for the reason that most normal driving can be done without wiretap. But nice to WOT and have it kick in for passing. I'm constantly watching and learning and trying to squeeze out that extra 1% more power and efficiency. If you export your current tune you can import it back if need by if you screw up. The biggest problem both of us (Me78569) face is people wanting to product smoke. That is a sure sign your flooding out the turbo and need to cut back. Quadzilla allows you to make clean tunes that produce more power this way than all the old school coal rolling from like Edge Products and others. Why is this because as injectors get bigger you need to add timing. No of the other tuners allow for controlled timing adjustments. Then with bigger injectors you need to build a defuel zone to allow for turbo spooling. Once the turbo is spun you can drop in quite a bit more fuel. My Economy tune when the wiretap hits there is ZERO change in exhuast smoke but you sure feel the truck pack up and leave. I still get guys asking for smoke tunes... No one will build them because its such a waste. Smoke tunes are much slower than any clean tune @Me78569 or myself can produce.

You not going to like it much. I owned mine for about 3 month and sold them. No improvement in light at all. The secondary light are narrow thin bands of light more of a vertical column than spread on the highway. The main light are the only thing cast on the highway. Pattern is scattered and poor. I even did the relay mod to get both bulbs to burn. Still no help from the secondary bulb because of the pattern it gives. Next step after this is HID...

Most likely the rheostat on the sender is wore through my first one failed that way... My 1996 Dodge is got a bad spot between 3/4 to 7/8 of a tank drops to EMPTY. Below that shows correctly too.

All the error code and definitions are here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

I can give classes on this its super easy to build tunes on Quadzilla. Think this is hard look at a EFILive or Smarty Touch no that is complex and confusing as hell. Pump Tap Parameters is all the setting for wire tap. How much time to add wire tap in microseconds. When does the wiretap max out vs TPS signal. When does wire tap start based on TPS signal. How much wiretap signal to start off with in percent. When to start wiretap based on boost. How far to go with wiretap based on boost pressure. Timing Parameters is all the setting for timing. Load based timing after load increased past cruise state. How far to retard timing based on heavy throttle. Second parameter for timing reduct. Cruise timing to add on top. Cruise timing range from 0% to ... RPM Timing Max is all the setting for max timing limits. Boost Level Fueling is all your CANBus fueling based on boost pressure.

I see a injection pump in your future. CCD Bus commincation error. Boost error code.

Sorry to hear about the loss.

Just got word that since there is no new rock movement they plan on blasting the massive rocks and the remaining hillside that is hanging.

I've already got the tank hung in the bands just getting frustrated with the drawstraw JIC connection. There is just enough hose but can't quite line up the threads and get it started. Only enough room for one hand. Already hot outside and 90*F here. Taking a break and going to try again later on that.

Not to mention you have a fuel supply issue too. Looking at the two screen shots you have fuel temps in the 140 to 150F range which is getting quite hot. The only reason for this problem is fuel pressure is dropping below 14 PSI and the overflow valve is closing. I run about 17 to 18 PSI of fuel pressure at 65 MPH. Notice the fuel temp and intake follow each other... You want just enough Timing reduct to spool the turbo rapidly on quick heavy throttle. I Now my RV towing Tune is set for 33% Light throttle load. My Economy tune is 25%. This one is empty truck tune and running about 16 to 18% engine load flat but allowed for small hill climbs under the cruise setting. Now you can see the enhanced load I've got different valves for my tuning tune because my average flat ground load is about 30% to 32%

Engine load is equal to the amount of fuel being delivered. That being said now engine load is a product of drag and speed. More drag and more speed equals more engine load to keep the truck at a constant speed. My average for my setup at 65 MPH or 2,000 RPM is roughly 16 to 18%. Now that seems much lower than what your looking it. This is because a larger injectors take much less duration to inject the same amount of fuel. Stock injectors will require more duration to inject the same amount of fuel. Hence engine loads are higher for stock injectors. Just a change of tire size say to 285's will increase engine load. Dragging brake shoes can add to drag and engine load.

Nothing is being done currently for clean up. ITD still saying its not safe to get under the slide to even clean up. Still a wait and see process.

Nope its a island stove so you can stand on the side or front if you wish. We tend to stand at the side that way you can walk past the cook and do other prep or clean up without making the cook move out of the way. As for the jelly. Man that stuff is good. Sugar free cherry jelly turned out super good. Bit tart being there is no sugar but taste very natural. Now the other batch she did with sugar is good as well but sweet. The sugar-free tasted better personally.

Here is the rest of it... The old float wore enough to slide up the arm so the rod just dropped to empty. Drawstraw still in a good position after 300k miles and not been messed with. No issues either. Take notice there is a plug in the bottom of the sender. It has a red tab lock and squeeze and pull loose. Then the plug has a retainer in the face. Using a pair of needle nose pull it out. Then carefully using a screwdriver and hold the lock back and carefully pull the leads from the plug. There is a hole where the wires are routed back up. Remember to route first before doing the plug! If you look close you'll see the little lock there. Pry or push it just a bit out of the notch and it slides down to remove. Reverse to install.

150 HP injectors you can start out at 80% easy. All my tunes are designed around the 150 HP (7 x 0.010).

Start at 14... Your Timing reduct will pull even more off that 12...

Actually you needs his competition, Kryptonite Towing https://www.google.com/search?&q=kryptonite+towing Way better towing service... He is Superman Kryptonite...

Thank you sir. There is a lot of articles written. I'm still writing more as times is available.